Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

my new frame kit arrived from tricklaser.com also.. check out my custom made belt tensioner mount.

original left, new on the right http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=220 tricklaser TL-1 frame looks well cut and pre-removed from laser cutting sheet. packed nicely. will be assembling this and posting another report. after some unpacking and visual inspection the kit is well cut, and very well aligned. top plate is perfectly symmetrical to the bottom plates. I can rotate the top plate to all three positions and the slots line up.
rambo mount is inside like the new rostockmax kits but it has more holes for mounting and running wires. also a fan mount.

I can't wait to see what you are going to do with that belt tensioning mount.
Was there a significant cost when they provide custom parts in place of the standard part?

Carl

some preliminary test fit photos. looks promising and I think its going to work. Now I know the exact sizes i need for turnbuckles. i'm gonna start looking for better parts. maybe get turnbuckles that are more heavy duty.

Cambo, I think that kit looks much better. But on the tension system, I think I would remake that.

If I recall you do a bit of machine work also. Wonder if you could use that tension mount but create a wishbone shaped bearing holder to replace the spacers on each side of the bearing. Then machine a point at the top for a single adjustment screw with a solid adjustment plate at the top.


I can cad out what I am talking about if that would help explain better.

I didn't want to machine any parts, goal was to make out of what was already available. I would rather prefer one single point of adjustment though.

update on calibration progress, after reassembling and getting better alignment, my calibration cube is better lined up starting to look better. on another note: now i'm having filament problems which is affecting my print quality.. this is never ending..but I believe it was induced by me. never spray lubricant near your filament spool, I think i got some of it on the filament. =/ edit: I found that my popping filament was caused my too high of a temperature setting as noted by another forum member, I started off at 230 and kept lowering the temp by 5 degree increments till i found the sweet spot, no more popping filament

calibration cube with kisslicer .35 layer height and support removed. 4/9/2013 not too shabby. getting there. .35 layer height, 100% infill, no support.

cambo3d wrote:update on calibration progress, after reassembling and getting better alignment, my calibration cube is better lined up starting to look better. on another note: now i'm having filament problems which is affecting my print quality.. this is never ending..but I believe it was induced by me. never spray lubricant near your filament spool, I think i got some of it on the filament. =/

calibration cube with kisslicer .35 layer height and support removed.

kisslicer (2).JPG

At least you know that your filament will slide nicely through the Steve's extruder. (I know, not funny).
So which base did you end up using, the one they sent as a replacement or the one you bought? I get confused
with all the part swaps you had to do.

Carl

i'm still using the seemecnc kit, the tricklaser tl-1 kit will get put together with the upgrades i'm working on.

My electronics compartment was getting warm enough for me to notice. The new mount location for the seemecnc version doesn't have a provision for fan.

so i added this 60mm fan to help circulate that air out. it vents out the bottom of the max frame edit: I would recommend anyone installing there rambo inside the compartment, add some sort of fan to vent the heat coming off the rambo out. after adding mine and printing for last couple of hours. the compartment stays notably cooler.

That TL-1 frame that you purchased, does it come with the top?
I am thinking about purchasing one to get rid of this acrylic, It looks sharp but it cracks if you get things too tight and it is not straight on the top.
I also bought the new arms trick laser has, that should eliminate the Delta Arm Blues permanently.

Eaglezsoar wrote:That TL-1 frame that you purchased, does it come with the top?
I am thinking about purchasing one to get rid of this acrylic, It looks sharp but it cracks if you get things too tight and it is not straight on the top.
I also bought the new arms trick laser has, that should eliminate the Delta Arm Blues permanently.

it comes with all the wood pieces, only. yes it has the top.

i just ordered the arms to try out also, =) hopefully it gets rid of the most of the play in the arms, but some of those have play also, so hopefully they picked a good set of ball ends.
I have set of custom arms also coming from an ebay seller in china. Well see how that works out when I get them.

i hate the current rostock arm design, i've sanded 3hours for what i thought was good, only to find out i had to sand another 3hrs for better fit, then i ended up sanding them too much, introduced side play. tried to use washers to take that out, ended up adding more friction..lol...

I definitely agree with your last sentence about the sanding. I'm just glad they finally came out with an alternative.

I finally got around to milling out my aluminum led mount for the rostock platform ( http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =220#p8825) came out pretty good. here are some photos.

I used a scrap aluminum cover from a radioshack project box. About 1mm thick. Once I got my cnc router setup, It took less than a minute to cut out. test fitting leds

Why not print it instead? Too close to the hot end?

- dan

dbarrans wrote:Why not print it instead? Too close to the hot end?

- dan

im using aluminum because it doubles as a heatsink for the 1 watt leds.

started prepping the frame with my little helper, The tl-1 frame went together without a hitch. I didn't have to sand or struggle assembling it. It was flat and level on first assembley. I was pleased. I will be assembling this machine as parts roll in. along with my planned upgrades.

fit feels good, no play in the ball ends, balls feel a little tight but putting some lube on them should loosen them up more. these are metal so they are heavier. we'll see how they turn out. shipped from china took about a week not too bad. i had the seller customize these to 269mm lengths.

Those look great! Good to finally have something different to get away from all that sanding that never works the first time.
Have fun hooking those up and let us know how they work. Is that your son in the pictures?

Eaglezsoar wrote:Those look great! Good to finally have something different to get away from all that sanding that never works the first time.
Have fun hooking those up and let us know how they work. Is that your son in the pictures?

yup

Good looking boy with a good father. Thanks for the pictures.

cambo3d wrote:new hotend that will get retrofitted into my max. I've been following the development of metal hotends and this one is now available for purchase. One downside depending on how you look at it, is that it uses 3mm filament at the moment. 1.75mm will be available at a later date.

hot end can print Nylon, Polycarbonate, PLA, ABS, LayWood, PVA, HDPE and just about any type of filament there is currently available on the market. no PTFE or plastic is used in the hot end and it is safe up to 400C. currently available at http://trinitylabs.com/products/trinity ... emp-hotend

all metal hot end.jpg

I bought one of the trinty hotends as well, Have you used yours yet?

Curious how it actually runs.

it hasn't arrived yet, but will post a report once it's all set up. I bought the full kit and not bare hotend, they were still waiting on parts to complete the kit.

there's a video of it on youtube, If i can find it i'll post the link

here's one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxsQ0dmW2N0 it seems to stay cool enough that he can print pla with no fan. unlike peek hot ends that need a fan.

My favorite feature of it is that it can't really be melted, since it has zero plastic in it anywhere.

Flateric wrote:My favorite feature of it is that it can't really be melted, since it has zero plastic in it anywhere.

yeah, i can't wait to try it out! hopefully, there isn't any fit issues with the rostock. I have another printer that is jhead based, so it should just be a direct swap, if I can't make it work for the rostock.

leds mounted using thermal adhesive epoxy, on my custom cut aluminum heat sink http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =260#p9718 50ohm pot wired along with 10ohm fixed resister, and on/off switch how it looks on the platform all wired up. If I make another, it will be made of pcb material so the wiring and led will be integral part of mount. powered up turned all the way down dim powered up turned all the way up bright IF ANYONE WANTS AN LED MOUNT LIKE THE ONE I MADE JUST SEND ME A PM, I DONT HAVE ANY STOCK TO MAKE THEM AT THE MOMENT BUT I'LL BE MORE THEN HAPPY TO GET SOME.

EDIT: I'M NOTICING A LOT OF FLICKERING WHEN THE RAMBO IS DOING ITS PID ROUTINE, SO I ORDERED A BETTER VOLTAGE AND CURRENT REGULATOR TO ELIMINATE THIS PROBLEM.
problem fixed, using this regulator below. no more flickering.

current and voltage regulator from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221200620645?ss ... 1497.l2649
simple setup, install and turn your led pot all the way bright, then adjust the voltage pot on the regulator till the flickering goes away. There's also a current adjustment if you need it.