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The newest version of the GLCD display adapter has changed a bit and doesn't require a regulator to be soldered on the PCB it's self. You can either add a seperate 5v to the VBB connector "or" add the regulator on the smoothieboard and just use the 12v on the VBB.


Still good to have an extra.

KAS wrote:The newest version of the GLCD display adapter has changed a bit and doesn't require a regulator to be soldered on the PCB it's self. You can either add a seperate 5v to the VBB connector "or" add the regulator on the smoothieboard and just use the 12v on the VBB.


Still good to have an extra.

20150705_113140.jpg

Good to know, thank you!

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H2BB ... %2Bday.jpg[/img]
Getting serious!, first arrivals from USPS/UPS...

Any thoughts how you will mount the fsr kit on the tricklaser frame?

forrie wrote:Any thoughts how you will mount the fsr kit on the tricklaser frame?

Not 100% yet... My original plan was a circular "table" with three legs and mounts either hung off the Trick Laser frame or "counterbored" into the beams, a pocket on the underside where I would mount the heated PCB, and another pocket on top to hold the glass in place so that I wouldn't have to use binder clips. I have a 24V psu for the bed, but the more I think about it, the more I wonder if by making the whole thing out of aluminum, will I wind up with a whole lot of warpage... The "floor" between the under pocket and top pocket is planned to be .125". When they say it's a 200mm radius, is that to the center of the posts, or a circle they would be tangent to?

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-by-H ... 525202.jpg[/img]
Day 2 arrivals! 12" X 12" 3M tape for the PEI, one 12V and one 24V PSU, and I think the GLCD from reprapdiscount! I think the steppers would have shown up if DHL had had my correct unit #... Ah, well, tomorrow...

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8i0f ... eppers.jpg[/img]
Steppers! 3 @ .9 deg/step for the axes, 1 @ 1.8 deg/step geared 5:1 for the extruder. Should be a smooooooth setup!

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FNdb ... 520PEI.jpg[/img]
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FGgH ... 520SSR.jpg[/img]
More "toys" for my toy... The braaaaiiiiinnnnn...

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1Yro ... 0Alive.jpg[/img]
It's been a couple days, but while I'm waiting for the Trick Laser parts to show up, I decided to try and move forward so I did this!! Two voltage regulators (one on the Smoothie, one on the adapter panel) and 12 pins later and it glows! I took this opportunity to update the config for the delta and .9 degree steppers. I received the shipping notice today from Trick Laser, so it'll be about a week. In the background, I'm installing the PEI to the build plate and working on getting a 1/16 copper heat spreader.

These beautiful parts showed up today. I no longer have any excuse!

I don't want to clutter up Cavanaugh's thread too much so I'll post these here. I work in a machine shop, so the plan is to make this out of aluminum, but I've included the .stl file as well. Please feel free to leave feedback.

ZakRabbit,

Could you post a couple of photos of your Smoothieboard and GLCD Shield please? Closeups?

I just got my Smoothieboard and GLCD Shield yesterday and from what I can tell, I still have to solder on more pins for the GLCD Shield to connect to the Smoothieboard...? Is that true??

I too got mine from RobotSeed as UberClock was all out. Still haven't heard back from Mark at Uberclock yet and that was weeks ago (three emails in total).

Seems that there is a LOT of flux on my board and there is one spot near the VBB that has a TON of solder there!! The square (copper/gold) is practically completely covered in solder.

I read on here that you only need one 5v 1.0a regulator on the Smoothieboard, but if you put a second one on the GLCD Shield, is that too a 1.0a or the 0.5a?

Sorry for all the questions, but I want to get this right.

I find too that the European version is somewhat different looking than the US spec'd one. One thing is the "jumper" instead of scratching off the trace line for the Smoothieboard version.

I got pretty much everything you listed above minus the FSR's... Might try that out. Oh and don't have the all metal frame... yet.

RIck

RMLynch wrote:ZakRabbit,

Could you post a couple of photos of your Smoothieboard and GLCD Shield please? Closeups?

I just got my Smoothieboard and GLCD Shield yesterday and from what I can tell, I still have to solder on more pins for the GLCD Shield to connect to the Smoothieboard...? Is that true??

I too got mine from RobotSeed as UberClock was all out. Still haven't heard back from Mark at Uberclock yet and that was weeks ago (three emails in total).

Seems that there is a LOT of flux on my board and there is one spot near the VBB that has a TON of solder there!! The square (copper/gold) is practically completely covered in solder.

I read on here that you only need one 5v 1.0a regulator on the Smoothieboard, but if you put a second one on the GLCD Shield, is that too a 1.0a or the 0.5a?

Sorry for all the questions, but I want to get this right.

I find too that the European version is somewhat different looking than the US spec'd one. One thing is the "jumper" instead of scratching off the trace line for the Smoothieboard version.

I got pretty much everything you listed above minus the FSR's... Might try that out. Oh and don't have the all metal frame... yet.

RIck

I'll get pictures when I get home, but yes, I wound up soldering in another 12 pins. Everywhere I saw a "missing" pin, I soldered one in using the pins from the Smoothie kit.
I believe that pad with all the solder on it is a single ground pad with a bunch of holes in it for when/if you add anything later on: remember these boards are used for a bunch of stuff so the needs are different.
I installed 1a voltage regulators on both the Smoothie itself and on the pcb adapter board, from what I understand, it makes it so that the GLCD is powered more directly from the power supply as opposed to from the Smoothieboard. The second one is not needed, but I feel it's just more "robust."
As far as the flux, these are made in very small batches and I think a lot of the components are hand soldered in place, so it may not be "pretty." It reminds me a lot of when I assembled my first Megasquirt ECU.


Edit:http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=8747 have a look here, the actual pins are shown.

Thanks ZakRabbit!

Looking forward to the photos!

I'll solder on the missing pins to the Smoothieboard as you suggest. The Wiki on the GLCD says the same thing, but... I like to double/triple check everything!

I'll also do the same as you with the 1a 5v Regulator. I know it's not needed, but like you... Same.

As for the excess flux... I wanted to buy some LePage PolyClens as many, many peoples say it's the cats *ss for cleaning off residual flux without harming the board/components itself, but it's discontinued now!
So I'll try some alcohol and see if that will clear up some flux mess.

On a side note... I'm super interested in 626Pilot's Firmware with the auto calibration using FSR's or a Probe. Going to order either one for his Firmware. Extremely cleaver of him!

So again, looking forward to your photos and I thank you very much for your time! Greatly appreciated!

Rick

P.S. Apologizing in advance if it's not allowed to post embedded URL's in forum posts. I'm not affiliated in anyway with the mentioned URL's... Just trying help forum members looking for the mentioned items above.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YMuD ... 174435.jpg[/img]
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vfm9 ... 174422.jpg[/img]
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8W7D ... 174403.jpg[/img]

Here are the photos I took. I took them from the back side as with the board in place, they're all covered. You can probably tell which ones are my solder joints.

[img]http://chibidibidiwah.wdfiles.com/local ... ard2sd.jpg[/img]

I stole this one from the thread I linked to, it shows in red which ones are actually required, but I put mine in in groups of three as the "extra" pins will add support.

I'm sure there are rules as to which embedded links are allowed and which aren't but I think you should be fine.
Many people have spent the time with me, it's my pleasure to give back. Make sure you keep us updated on your build too!

Can't wait to see yours or Aflac's machine built. I haven't even finished my Rostock Max V2 and already this metal frame has been on my mind. Not before a few other mods though.

Thanks ZakRabbit!

Rick

@ZakRabbit,

Quick question... Did you use Lead-Free Solder or Leaded (eutectic)?

Just bought a new soldering station yesterday for the Smoothieboard pins & regulator (my old one(s) were terrible) and they guy recommended Lead-Free Solder. Personally, I've never used the stuff.

What do you think the Smoothieboard was Soldered with? Any guesses? Plus what did you use?

Thanks,

Rick

I used 0.7mm, 60% tin 40% lead for my unsoldered smoothieboard. Worked fine.

Thanks forrie,

Going back for some 60/40 leaded solder then.

Could one not just desolder the 5xc terminals (for steppers, min/max stops, thermistors) and replace them with new soldered on Hansen Hobbies 4x, 3x, 2x pin terminals to convert over?

Or would making the adapters be the better way to go?

Rick

The smoothie should have came with connectors and pins. I think it is best and cleanest build to cut wires to proper length and crimp new pins and use smoothie supplied connectors.
BTW, the connectors pre-wired on some stepper motors will work on smoothie board connection if you bend or cut of the white lock tab.

Thanks Brian,

I'll look at it again.

BTW... Thank you very much for your work, time and craftsmanship on the order that I purchased from you!

I spoke with Celia just a few minutes ago, whom is a very, very nice person to deal with and told her personally to thank you!

Great service!

Rick

RMLynch wrote:@ZakRabbit,

Quick question... Did you use Lead-Free Solder or Leaded (eutectic)?

Just bought a new soldering station yesterday for the Smoothieboard pins & regulator (my old one(s) were terrible) and they guy recommended Lead-Free Solder. Personally, I've never used the stuff.

What do you think the Smoothieboard was Soldered with? Any guesses? Plus what did you use?

Thanks,

Rick

I'm pretty sure it was 60/40, the label's fallen off ages ago, left over from my last sojourn into R/C Cars.

Now you can print out a new one!

Open RC has 1/8th scale buggies and truggies. As well I believe quad copter .STL's for print.

I too was into R/C cars & trucks when I was younger. I moved over to R/C aeroplanes & helicopters.

Thanks again ZakRabbit for the info! Going with 60/40.

Rick

RMLynch wrote:Now you can print out a new one!

Open RC has 1/8th scale buggies and truggies. As well I believe quad copter .STL's for print.

I too was into R/C cars & trucks when I was younger. I moved over to R/C aeroplanes & helicopters.

Thanks again ZakRabbit for the info! Going with 60/40.

Rick

Oh, the gears are a-turnin'.... Good luck with your build and keep us updated!