Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

mhackney wrote:Here's the gear bearing I just finished. This is the first time I've been able to print one that actually works (and well!). That's primarily thanks to KISS since it had a logical print path and I didn't need to use retract to minimize blobing. I have a little more work to do to reduce the little stringing this part has. But, it broke free and rotated right off the plate.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41 ... 9506-3.jpg[/img]

Can you post your settings of KISS you used to print that part, I want make a comparison. Please.

Here you go. KISSlicer settings for the Gear Bearing.

thank you for files
hmmm, I think I'm missing something, I used your settings, But I changed my starting G-Code to

g28;
M140 S<BEDTEMP>
M190 S<BEDTEMP>

yours:

T<EXT+0>
M104 S<TEMP>
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>

I'm starting printing laying great 1st layer, and after that machine stops completly. On the LCD status is saying IDLE. Nothing in repetier host. Any clues? I'm using repetier firmware

EDIT:
I think I find an answer since I'm printing first layer on 230C and other layers on 222, machine after 1st layer is trying to wait for nozzle cooldown. In KISS i should change temp g code from m109 ( Set Extruder Temperature and Wait) to m104 ( Set Extruder Temperature). Learning everyday.

That's odd on the starting gcode. I had changed that according to Polygonhell's post. Seems not to have stuck.

I had

G28;
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
M140 S<TEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>

I believe. The M190

mhackney wrote:That's odd on the starting gcode. I had changed that according to Polygonhell's post. Seems not to have stuck.

I had

G28;
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
M140 S<TEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>

I believe. The M190

I know. I corrected my GCode You give me great starting point for kisslicer, finally I was able of printing something more complex than calibration cube. I forget to change my ABS settings,so there is too much plastic. But when its finished I put it on hex wrench, and turn it and its WORKING, IN FIRST TRY.After that I want to print Yoda and after 3 hours of printing it STOPS on layer 241. No errors in host, neither in GCode.I stopped print in host,and try to home the machine, but no response.I have to reconnect the machine and then home it.now I have cool looking desk pen holder. Again thanks for great starting point in kisslicer.

Looking good! That problem you describe sounds suspiciously similar to the problem Highcooley discovered. A bug has been filed with Repetier. It seems that communication stops for some reason. Here is the bug report and discussion: https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/issues/72

Looks like Yoda is having open brain surgery!

gabrielk wrote:

mhackney wrote:That's odd on the starting gcode. I had changed that according to Polygonhell's post. Seems not to have stuck.

I had

G28;
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
M140 S<TEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>

I believe. The M190

I know. I corrected my GCode You give me great starting point for kisslicer, finally I was able of printing Spongebob more complex than calibration cube. Iforget to change my ABS settings,so there is too much plastic. But when its finished I put it on hex wrench, and turn it and its WORKING, IN FIRST TRY.After that I want to print Yoda and after 3 hours of printing it STOPS on layer 241. No errors in host, neither in GCode.I stopped print in host,and try to home the machine, but no response.I have to reconnect the machine and then home it.now I have cool looking desk pen holder.

20130304_112212.jpg

Again thanks for great starting point in kisslicer.

Now that's a darn nice pen holder!

Did you use newest Kisslicer Beta 1.1.0c? There is a lot of new features. I taken your config files to 1.0.9. Now geared bearing could be a lot better. Sorry if I spam your topic

gabrielk, yes I am using the 1.1.0 beta version.The about dialog just has 1.1.0 so I don't know if it is "c" but I did just download it last week.

For those of you using KISS, it has a feature to import the printer's bed as an STL. I've created one for our beloved Rostock. It is 280mm diameter and 2mm thick with its top surface at z=0 so items sit on it properly. Set your bed size to 280mm x 280mm and load this STL. It helps laying out multiple parts and sizing things.
\

cheers,
Michael

mhackney wrote:For those of you using KISS, it has a feature to import the printer's bed as an STL. I've created one for our beloved Rostock. It is 280mm diameter and 2mm thick with its top surface at z=0 so items sit on it properly. Set your bed size to 280mm x 280mm and load this STL. It helps laying out multiple parts and sizing things.

RostockBedSTL.stl

\

cheers,
Michael

You're not talking about actually printing this out and using it on top of the bed are you? Or is this a "virtual bed". An actual printed bed would certainly play havoc with the nice temperatures of the bed.
I'm a little slow sometimes so I tend to question what I do not understand (which is a lot).
Carl

no! It is a virtual bed - KISSlicer has a feature on the printer tab to add your bed.

Here's what it looks like and the Printer tab where you enter the file path.

mhackney wrote: no! It is a virtual bed - KISSlicer has a feature on the printer tab to add your bed.

Here's what it looks like and the Printer tab where you enter the file path.

Screen Shot 2013-03-04 at 4.07.14 PM.png

That's cool. Will it allow you to place multiple stls on the bed and arrange them also?

With the PRO version yes. That is one of the PRO features. You don't have any control over positioning but you can increase the count or add completely different things.

As promised, here is the post with the drawings for the aluminum heat dissipator in case you want to make your own:

Aluminum Heat Dissipator

regards,
Michael

I've had a couple of inquiries about my shop and other tools so I'll stick this off topic post in my build thread in case anyone is interested. The backdrop is, I run a small home-based business manufacturing fly fishing reel kits and finished reels. I am the only source for fly reel kits in the world. I manufacture 100% of the parts myself in aluminum, brass, Delrin, nickel silver and exotics like mammoth ivory and stabilized wood burls. I CNC'd all of the machinery myself. My first CNC machine was a router that I built probably about 8 or 9 years ago. Today I have:

a MicroMark X2 minimill CNC'd (more photos and build process.)
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24 ... 2734-3.jpg[/img]

a Grizzly G0704 CNC'd. This is my workhorse now. A great machine with a big work envelope. (more photos and build process)
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20 ... 2186-3.jpg[/img]

Both of the mills are in enclosure for the flood coolant. I am just completing a power draw bar and auto tool changer for the Grizzly. That will greatly improve my throughput.

Behind it you can see a Grizzly G0602 10x22 lathe CNC'd and I have a MicroMark minilathe that I use manually. I also have a Jet 14" metal bandsaw, a drill press, a 45 ton Hydraulic press, an antique 10 ton fly press, a 12" cube tempering oven (for heat treating and casting) and quite a bit of other stuff! And of course the H-1, and H-1.1 and Rostock MAX!
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v45 ... 3152-3.jpg[/img]


I am an active contibutor at the CNCZone Benchtop Machine forum where I've learned an incredible amount from the resident guru (and bonafide genus) Hoss.

Thank you for the pictures, quite impressive! A job well done and apparently never ending.

Carl

That's awesome, totally jealous of your shop!!

Thanks texsc98 - it was decades in the making! I started out as a woodworker back in the 80s. In fact, you can see my Delta Unisaw in one of the photos above. I've swapped out most of my woodworking tools for metal working or dual purpose like the bandsaw due to space constraints. I can't bring myself to let go of the Unisaw though, it is so darn useful!

You mentioned and auto tool changer!

This is something I am currently working on my self, with little success to be honest. Could you elaborate a bit more in this catagory.

I would absolutely LOVE to get to know more about this project and/or collaborate with you on it.

@flateric - the "man" on home brew tool changes is Hoss over at the CNC forum. I'm building his ATC 4 and the power draw bar based on his design. Check it out and read his posts on CNCZone. I can point you if you can't find it but he's a fixture on the zone!

The thought of an ATC makes me drool. Then I see the $12k price tag for it (for my ShopBot), sob quite a bit and move on.

g.

That's one advantage of building your own. Of course a ShopBot is a different beast. The ATC and power draw bar will cost me about $300 for parts. Since Hoss has done the hard work of designing the stuff, there won't be a lot of wasted time in building trial and error!

Bob Warfield over at CNC Cookbook writes a really nice blog. His post this morning is called Manufacturing is Cool Again: It's about time. Most of it focuses on 3D printing technology used in manufacturing but the last company he mentions is my company, The Eclectic Angler, and the work I do using my home-brewed CNC equipment to manufacture reels and reel kits. Kinda cool!

mhackney wrote:Bob Warfield over at CNC Cookbook writes a really nice blog. His post this morning is called Manufacturing is Cool Again: It's about time. Most of it focuses on 3D printing technology used in manufacturing but the last company he mentions is my company, The Eclectic Angler, and the work I do using my home-brewed CNC equipment to manufacture reels and reel kits. Kinda cool!

Yep, kinda cool. Don't get a big head! Seriously, I'd be on cloud 9 for the recognition.
Carl