Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Up and running after appropriatley adjusting the Delta Radius (i.e. Horizontal radius). What I impressed with is the difference in the sound of the steppers. Clearly smoother in motion!!! Not as "choppy" with a much higher frequency of noise suggesting finer motion.

Anybody else having a weird windows driver thing going on?
The Arduino board works properly from the IDE install, but the Duet itself isn't happy.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/6BSAuw7.png[/img]

I can't connect over USB, and I suspect that this is what's causing it.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/HhahC2E.png[/img]

I haven't seen that. I can connect over USB from both Mac and Windows 7 and 10 hosts.

mhackney wrote:I haven't seen that. I can connect over USB from both Mac and Windows 7 and 10 hosts.

Interestingly, when I plug my board into someone else's computer who has a working Duet board in their machine (Brian from TrickLaser) it prompts him to install a new driver like he's never connected a Duet before, and if he does he ends up with the same exclamation warning in device manager...

I've followed your instructions to the letter with the links from the reprappro website, I've tried DC's guide at https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/201 ... issioning/ and I've also tried the google docs pages linked to on the Filastruder site... Changing the SD card files to match each time, using the Arduino version recommended in each location, etc...

Is there a reflash of the bootloader or something like that, that I should look into next? I'm running out of ideas.


I can get the touchscreen to work, and it says the name of the printer in my config file in the header of the page, so that's all good - just no dice with USB. I'll see if I can get anywhere with ethernet next. If that doesn't do it, I'll probably try to exchange it.

try a different cable ^^
i was working with a defective usb cable in university once...

has anyone uploaded an SD-Image for a stock rostock v2 yet?

Here is my config.g for my Rostock. I am using the diamond head, and TL arms which are stock lenght.

You will need to uncomment the stock hotend tool commands. As well comment out the Duet/Duex4 tools I have set up for my three extruders.

This originally was a config.g by geneb.

Dan

Jimustanguitar wrote:Anybody else having a weird windows driver thing going on?
The Arduino board works properly from the IDE install, but the Duet itself isn't happy.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/6BSAuw7.png[/img]

I can't connect over USB, and I suspect that this is what's causing it.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/HhahC2E.png[/img]

Solved. I reached out to Tony and Roland from Think3DPrint, and they were very helpful. It turns out that a change to the back end of the USB portion of the firmware doesn't play nicely with Windows 8.1, and for the time being the right fix is to install their firmware version RepRapFirmware-1.10+4-dc42.bin from https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/tree/dev/Release

After installing the 1.10+4 version of the firmware, everything appears normally in Device manager, and I'm able to connect and home the machine.

Now on to dialing in my config file settings and trying that first calibration and print!!

3D-Print wrote:Here is my config.g for my Rostock. I am using the diamond head, and TL arms which are stock lenght.

You will need to uncomment the stock hotend tool commands. As well comment out the Duet/Duex4 tools I have set up for my three extruders.

This originally was a config.g by geneb.

Dan

THX!!

calibration and printer works great besides some minor issues right now.
i would like to speed up the calibration a bit and reduce the probing distance, but i cant find the parameter for this in the bed.g or sys.g
(using fsr)

and mhackney is completely right about s6/s7 calibration...
with s7 the duet caculates a rod leght of 270.2 and all my parts are slightly to small

lordgort wrote: THX!!

calibration and printer works great besides some minor issues right now.
i would like to speed up the calibration a bit and reduce the probing distance, but i cant find the parameter for this in the bed.g or sys.g
(using fsr)

and mhackney is completely right about s6/s7 calibration...
with s7 the duet caculates a rod leght of 270.2 and all my parts are slightly to small

Awesome.... glad it worked well... My next step s also FSR's.

The washer supplied with my JohnSL-Set are pretty thick. I the FSR-holder of mhackney.

When i use a FSR between two washer, the feet of my bed would not been in the holder anymore. And i think the sensitivity would suffer in the case i just put one above or under the fsr?

BTW i think the cable for the headbed on the stock Rostock V2 is really to thin. After taking my printer appart and printing with the electronic outside i noticed that the cables for the headbed-supply get really hot! So hot that one of my sensor cables which touched one of those got darker (white cable) on that spot. Im using thicker cables now, they stay cool. (Yes, im confident that i used the right cables when i builded the Printer)

Jimustanguitar wrote:Anybody else having a weird windows driver thing going on?
The Arduino board works properly from the IDE install, but the Duet itself isn't happy.

This is a known issue with my latest 1.11 firmware revision and Windows 8. I'll release an update soon. It's because the Arduino Due .inf file no longer matches the way the Duet presents itself as a USB device. I need to do a new .inf file. Meanwhile, if you have this problem then I suggest you use the 1.10+4 release.

@lordgort - I only use one washer above the FSR. The FSR has a peal-off film on the back with sticky tape underneath. I attach it directly to the mount. No problem with sensitivity this way.

I'm getting there with the Duet and PanelDue. No problem flashing code from my Mac using mhackney's instructions. (Thank you!)

Code versions are:
Firmware Version: 1.12a (2016-05-10)
Web Interface Version: HTML: 1.11, JS: 1.11

I'm running on the bench at the moment, checking it out 'cold' before connecting it to the Rostock Max V2. Web interface comes up and all looks good, PanelDue works great. So far so good.

Now for my dumb question... Looks like you are supposed to be able to edit the config.g file through the web interface. I can open it through Settings/Configuration File, I can then edit the text live on screen. However clicking 'Apply Settings' apparently does nothing. My changes aren't written back to the config.g file on the SD card.

What am I missing here? Is there something else I have to enable to make this work? Perhaps it has to be connected to the printer before this will work?

I connected my Duet to the printer before turning it on....... It sounds like you are editing the config.g exactly as I have via the web interface by "applying settings" after which the Duet reboots and you reconnect. Not sure why it is not updating when you "apply settings."

3D-Print wrote:I connected my Duet to the printer before turning it on....... It sounds like you are editing the config.g exactly as I have via the web interface by "applying settings" after which the Duet reboots and you reconnect. Not sure why it is not updating when you "apply settings."

Thanks for responding. No, apparently nothing happens at all. Certainly doesn't reboot the Duet.

However - after your message saying what I should see, I then tried in a different browser and all is good. Seems that it doesn't work in Safari (Version 9.1) on a Mac (10.11.4 ) but does work in Chrome. (I checked on an iPad and this feature doesn’t work in either Safari or Chrome there.)

I dug in a little further to try and find out why, and it fails at line 1200 in model.js with the error ''FileConstructor is not a constructor".
Googling that error shows that, indeed, Safari doesn't support the File Constructor (nor does IE or Edge). However it is supported in Chrome, Opera, and FireFox. See http://caniuse.com/#feat=fileapi

I'm sure this is a known limitation of Duet Web Control, I just didn’t see it in the postings. No problem, I'll try and remember to use Chrome.

mhackney wrote:@lordgort - I only use one washer above the FSR. The FSR has a peal-off film on the back with sticky tape underneath. I attach it directly to the mount. No problem with sensitivity this way.

Yes, I did exactly the same last week. I also tried nylon washers like you suggested before. Just to see if when the plunger reaches deeper into the mount, the results would be better. However with the nylon washer the fsr's do not trigger at all. Also when pushed by finger directly. Can't understand why. Also It seems difficult to get the bed mounted even if the plugers go into the mounts deep, at least with the way I cleaned them up... So I reverted to the rubbery thick washer that ultibot delivers, and that's going fine.

I tried OpenDact and it needed like 60 iterations to finish. It had found reasonable evenness in the bed, which is pretty surprising because afterwards I found that I forgot to remove one of the nylon washers out of the mount...

lignumaqua wrote:I'm sure this is a known limitation of Duet Web Control, I just didn’t see it in the postings. No problem, I'll try and remember to use Chrome.

Awesome. I use Chrome........ Thus, it makes sense!!

Please forgive me if this has been covered or should be in its own thread, but what would be the appropriate way to hook up a duet using one of the older stock power supplies? Would I just twist together all of the wires that were previously going into the terminals on the Rambo? (it appears to be six pairs of wires total).

If that is a bad option, I may just buy a new beefier power supply that can use thicker gauged wire.

That would be the the easy option, yes. I am currently in the process with a duet. I think my plan will be to use a pair of nice big butt connectors, to give myself a cleaner end to insert into the screw terminal. Unless you go ahead and use the industrial supply, most won't have any thicker of wire (I have a AX760, which is quite beefy, and not very cheap, and it uses around the same gauge of wire). I found the easiest way to get them to go in was to twist together the loose two, then insert them before inserting the quartet.

Ok. Thanks for the tip. I'll try that for now.

I'm printing some hotter materials, and can't figure out how to raise the max temp of the hotend. I can get it to 255, but anything higher than that, either manually or in GCode won't work. I've dug through the GCode config files looking for 255, max, temp, and a few other search terms, and I can't find it. Anybody know where to change it?

Jim,
Try the following:

3. If you print with hot end temperatures above 260C then you will need to add a M143 command in config.g, for example M143 S280 will increase the temperature limit to 280C.

From: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?416,661388

DGBK wrote:Jim,
Try the following:

3. If you print with hot end temperatures above 260C then you will need to add a M143 command in config.g, for example M143 S280 will increase the temperature limit to 280C.

From: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?416,661388

Perfect, thanks!
Comical that none of the search terms I was using were in the exact answer I was looking for. That's my luck

Ok, I'm going crazy. I have everything working except the motors. Everything on my Max ver2 is stock except for the E3D Chimera hot ends. I have the Kysan motors( actually they're the Animation Technology motors, they use the same settings as the Kysan on the Rambo). Duet 8.5 d42-14 firmware. I also tried the d42-13 release. All of the thermistors work, the hot ends work, and the end stops work. I also have an IR probe which works but I disconnected and commented them out for trouble shooting. When I connected the warning saying A,B,C needs to be Homed. When I push the home button nothing happens but I can trigger the end stop switches with my fingers and the machine thinks it's homed. Neither extruder works, even after the hotend is to temperature. Here is the last configuration I tried. Thanks in advance for any help.



; Communication and general
M111 S0                             ; Debug off
M550 PKossel250                   ; Machine name and Netbios name (can be anything you like)
M551 Ppassword                       ; Machine password (used for FTP)
M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address
;*** Adjust the IP address and gateway in the following 2 lines to suit your network
M552 P10.0.1.199            ; IP address (0 = use DHCP)
M554 P10.1.10.1                   ; Gateway
M553 P255.255.255.0                   ; Netmask
M555 P2                             ; Set output to look like Marlin
G21                                 ; Work in millimetres
G90                                 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83                                 ; ...but relative extruder moves
;M575 P1 B57600 S1                   ; Set auxiliary serial port baud rate and require checksum (for PanelDue)

; Axis and motor configuration
M569 P0 S0                     ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1                     ; Drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S0                     ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0                     ; Drive 3 (extruder) goes backards
M569 P4 S0                     ; Drive 4 goes backwards
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1               ; set endstop configuration (all endstops at high end, active high)
;*** The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration
M665 R142.68 L290.8 B140 H390        ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0 Y0 Z0         ; put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them
M92 X80 Y80 Z80                  ; Set axis steps/mm
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1500      ; Set motor currents (mA)
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000      ; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
M203 X20000 Y20000 Z20000 E3600      ; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200      ; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute

; fan needs to be inverted
M106 P0 I1

; Thermistors
;*** If you have a Duet board stickered "4.7K", change R1000 to R4700 to the following M305 commands
M305 P0 T100000 B3950 R4700 H0 L0   ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B4388 R4700 H0 L0   ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction
M305 P2 T100000 B4388 R4700 H0 L0   ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the second nozzle thermistor ADC correction
M570 S180                     ; Hot end may be a little slow to heat up so allow it 180 seconds

; Tool definitions
M563 P0 D0 H1                       ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 S0 R0                        ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
;*** If you have a dual-nozzle build, un-comment the next 2 lines
M563 P1 D1 H2                      ; Define tool 1
G10 P1 S0 R0                       ; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures
M92 E92.4:92.4                          ; Set extruder steps per mm

; Z probe and compensation definition
;*** If you have an IR zprobe instead of a switch, change P4 to P1 in the following M558 command
;M558 P4 X0 Y0 Z0 H3             ; Z probe is a switch and is not used for homing any axes
;G31 X0 Y0 Z-.05 P500            ; Set the zprobe height and threshold (put your own values here)

;*** If you are using axis compensation, put the figures in the following command
;M556 S78 X0 Y0 Z0                   ; Axis compensation here

;M208 S1 Z-0.2                  ; set minimum Z
;
T0                           ; select first hot end

Could you check your Homedelta.G for me, and tell me what it says? Also, I believe you need E1500:1500 to account for dual nozzle. Is the extruder failing to work something that you've tried using either a paneldue or DWC to check, or is that just a printing a file thing?