[NEW! 12Feb14] Rostock MAX Assembly Manual

[JonAdkins]

Great job on the manual, I've almost reached the end of my build and everything has been going exceptionally well as a result of your hard work.

I did come across a discrepancy regarding the wiring of the PEEK Fan. I'm not stuck per say, but would like a bit of advice on which of the two options to follow.

On Page 141 of the current manual, Fig. 16b-4 shows the Peek wired to Fan 1, however, in Apendix B Page 216 there is the following quote:

If you're using the Repetier firmware supplied by SeeMeCNC, you can connect the PEEK fan to
the HEAT1 terminal on the RAMBo board. This output is set to turn on any time the extruder is on and
it will drive the fan 100%, which is what you want.

As you're aware it goes on to talk about using the FAN1 output if you're using custom or old firmware, however, since I'm a new builder and intend on using whatever is currently available on SeeMeCNC should I follow the Appendix information and install the fan on Heat1?

As an aside, it would be nice if there was a small portion of the manual to adding an accessory fan to cool the filament as it comes out of the hot-end. I was wondering where you would end up wiring that fan into. Should I put it into the Fan1 output and then run the “M42 P6 S255” command to turn it on when I'm doing a PLA print?

What if I wanted to add an LED ring, where would you suggesting wiring that to?

Thanks again for all of the hard work on the manual and the videos you've put up.

-jon

[geneb]

You're quite welcome Jon!

The .83 firmware that is currently shipping with the RAMBo _should_ activate the HEAT1 channel when the hot end heats up. This was done in order to make it easier for users and to not have to add the M42 command to your gcode prefix code.

That being said, it doesn't work on my RAMBo - I haven't spent the time to figure out why. If your fan doesn't start up while on HEAT1, go ahead and change it to FAN1 and add the M42 code.

The "layer" fan is connected to FAN0 and is controlled by the Fan slider in Repetier-Host. Until recently, there's been no "official" layer fan mount. A number of folks have come up with various designs that have worked to various degrees.

Recently one of the SeeMeCNC Assembly Minions (Andy) developed this: http://repables.com/r/171/ - it's a fan shroud designed to hold a 25mm squirrel cage fan. Here's what it looks like installed on Orange Menace:
[img]http://www.geneb.org/rostock-max/fan-shroud.jpg[/img]

They don't appear to have those fans in their online store yet, but email them at [email protected] and I'm sure they can point you where you need to go to buy one. This fan and shroud is now being shipped installed on the new Orion printers as a default option.

The awesome thing about this fan is that it doesn't have ANY effect on the hot end temperature at all, which is a problem I've found with other layer fan shrouds. If at all possible, print the fan shroud out of ABS. You won't use it while printing with ABS, but it needs to be able to withstand ABS-like temperatures when you're printing with ABS instead of PLA.

Adding a LED ring will be problematic if you use Andy's fan shroud because it'll block access to the bottom of the effector platform, but I think that the fan shroud brings enough to the table that you'd be better off choosing a different lighting method. I've removed the LED ring from the printers I'm using his duct with.

As to lighting wiring, you can get yourself an SPST micro switch (the same one used for the power switch) and wire that directly to the power supply, either 12 or 5 volt lines depending on what the lights require. You'll want to connect the ground wire directly to the lamps/LEDs and connect the hot wire to the switch.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

The Fan is available from Future Electronics at http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Tec ... ION9925876
The cost is $11.32 plus shipping. Digikey also carries them for about a dollar more. The fan is about 1.5 cfm.

[JonAdkins]

Thanks for the replies, it's greatly appreciated.

I have one additional question regarding the software/firmware installation.

The manual has us download the Firmware from Github ( the link is currently broken btw ). When would you suggest compiling and uploading the firmware, do you do it prior to starting modification of printer settings in Repetier Host?

I found a video made by John http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4yMV18oMbw I'm assuming this is still relevant.

Thanks again for the information. I know how fidgety things can be and I want to make sure I get a clean install before I start delving into any customization's.

-jon

[geneb]

Do a git pull from here: https://github.com/seemecnc/rostockmax and that'll get you the current firmware (.83 as of the time this is being written).

Unless you find you need to make a printer_radius adjustment, you really don't need to upload the firmware to the board - it should have what's on github already.

g.

[JonAdkins]

Thanks again Gene!

-jon

[TedMilker]

Quick correction for typo, page 162:

printer. Don't worry, you're in good company.) moving the hot end around and seeing how it works,

[jmpreuss]

They don't appear to have those fans in their online store yet, but email them at [email protected] and I'm sure they can point you where you need to go to buy one. This fan and shroud is now being shipped installed on the new Orion printers as a default option.

As an update they are now selling these fans on the website, I just got mine in the mail today.

[Eaglezsoar]

Do a git pull from here: https://github.com/seemecnc/rostockmax and that'll get you the current firmware (.83 as of the time this is being written).

Unless you find you need to make a printer_radius adjustment, you really don't need to upload the firmware to the board - it should have what's on github already.

g.

Quick, off topic question, are you the F15sim that did all the (over 100) videos on You Tube?

[geneb]

Quick correction for typo, page 162:

printer. Don't worry, you're in good company.) moving the hot end around and seeing how it works,

Fixed!

g.

[geneb]

Quick, off topic question, are you the F15sim that did all the (over 100) videos on You Tube?

Yep, that's me. http://www.youtube.com/f15sim is the main channel url.

g.

[mhackney]

Gene, you showed this a bit ago:

...

Recently one of the SeeMeCNC Assembly Minions (Andy) developed this: http://repables.com/r/171/ - it's a fan shroud designed to hold a 25mm squirrel cage fan. Here's what it looks like installed on Orange Menace:
[img]http://www.geneb.org/rostock-max/fan-shroud.jpg[/img]

...
g.

I have the fan and printed this shroud. Did you have to drill a hole in your effector for it or did you attach it some other way?

thanks,
Michael

[mhackney]

I learned something new! I took my effector off in preparation to drill a hole to mount the fan & shroud and discovered that there are holes in the corners! Mine had molding flash covering most of them up so I couldn't see them with it installed. Now I have a shiny new fan and shroud!

[geneb]

\o/

The fan duct is EXCELLENT for printing PLA. I can run that sucker at 100% for the whole print job and the hot end temp never dips.

g.

[mhackney]

Got my fan hooked up last night and started using it. Very impressive. I used to use fans on the table to cool the part since none of the effector mounted fans really worked for me. But this squirrel cage fan and shroud works really well. I did a series of tests to see if the fan affected nozzle temp. When you turn it on, it does drop the temp by a 1/2 degree or so but nothing significant and the temp comes back up very quickly on an E3D hot end. A very useful enhancement!

[TedMilker]

Page 110:

You’ll need four 1/2” #4-40 socket head screws, four #4 flat washers and eight small round plastic spacers.

1/2" screws aren't long enough for stacking two plastic spacers. The screw just touches the insert lip. I have a RAMBo 1.2 if the PCB is thicker now or something. I'm going to pick up some 3/4" ones tomorrow.

[geneb]

If the t-nut is fully seated, it should be long enough.

g.

[TedMilker]

T-nuts are fully seated, flush with melamine and no cupping. They're just plain not long enough. *shrug*

edit: Added picture

[img]http://nuclearfuzzgrunge.com/images/3d_ ... _short.jpg[/img]
Barely enough thread to engage the t-nut, even if it did reach.

[TedMilker]

An alternative LCD assembly to using #4 wood screws and possibly splitting the melamine:

Buy an 1/8" dowel at a hardware or hobby store.

Cut four 1" sections out of the dowel.

Enlarge the four holes on the faceplate with an 1/8" drill bit(they're already extremely close).

Assemble the faceplate, LCD and side mounting plates and transfer the holes you drilled out with an awl.

Remove the side mounting plates.

If your awl marks aren't centered on the side mounting plates, just center them by eye.

Drill out the marks on the side mounting plates with an 1/8" drill bit. You want to be perpendicular to the face, so this works best in a drill press with a vice but you could probably do it with a drill by hand if you're careful. You don't need to drill very deep and if you go too far, you'll break into the slots but it's not an issue.

Because of the interference with the rotary encoder pads, you're going to have to remove some of the material to get the holes in the mounting plate line up. I marked where the solder pads were hitting the slot with a pencil and used a sanding drum on my dremel to remove enough material to let the mounting plate slide further. These are on the inside of the mounting plate, so no one will ever see them.

Use a file to slightly chamfer one of the ends of each of the dowel sections. This lets you plug it into the hole easier.

Dab a little wood glue into the hole of the faceplate and press a dowel section into the hole, chamfered end first. Repeat for each hole.

Use a small saw to cut each of the dowels flush with the top of the faceplate and let dry.

[Shizuma]

Page 110:

You’ll need four 1/2” #4-40 socket head screws, four #4 flat washers and eight small round plastic spacers.

1/2" screws aren't long enough for stacking two plastic spacers. The screw just touches the insert lip. I have a RAMBo 1.2 if the PCB is thicker now or something. I'm going to pick up some 3/4" ones tomorrow.

Putting together my Rostock MAX today and even more frustrating there is that is says to use those 4 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, the assembly manual also says to use those same 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, that 6 clamps x 2 screws = 12 screws, + 4 for the RAMBo = 16, there are only 12 of those screws included in the kit per the packing list, which really sucks cause i'm stuck in the house since there is a blizzard going on here right now and now I stuck on the install because the required screws weren't in the kit :/

[neurascenic]

I just built mine, and all the screws were there. I'm not sure about the specific screws, but they are divided up kinda funny. They are broken as sub kits, for lack of better words. That is the extruder, since it is sold by itself, has it's set, etc... I actually had extra items.

[TedMilker]

Putting together my Rostock MAX today and even more frustrating there is that is says to use those 4 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, the assembly manual also says to use those same 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, that 6 clamps x 2 screws = 12 screws, + 4 for the RAMBo = 16, there are only 12 of those screws included in the kit per the packing list, which really sucks cause i'm stuck in the house since there is a blizzard going on here right now and now I stuck on the install because the required screws weren't in the kit :/

Yeah. I found this was true with many screws after the main frame assembly but I have a ton of leftover 6-32 x1" screws and #4 washers. Ace Hardware has received a few trips to pick up miscellaneous stuff. You may want to get 10-20 additional #6 washers(if you use them everywhere like I did), I ran out of those early too.

geneb: Found a little thing for new calibration on page #217. You used the same Advanced Settings menu image for the Z-Height Option image.

[geneb]

*facepalm*

Good catch Ted, thanks! I'll get it fixed as soon as I can.

g.

[bdjohns1]

Putting together my Rostock MAX today and even more frustrating there is that is says to use those 4 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, the assembly manual also says to use those same 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, that 6 clamps x 2 screws = 12 screws, + 4 for the RAMBo = 16, there are only 12 of those screws included in the kit per the packing list, which really sucks cause i'm stuck in the house since there is a blizzard going on here right now and now I stuck on the install because the required screws weren't in the kit :/

Yeah. I found this was true with many screws after the main frame assembly but I have a ton of leftover 6-32 x1" screws and #4 washers. Ace Hardware has received a few trips to pick up miscellaneous stuff. You may want to get 10-20 additional #6 washers(if you use them everywhere like I did), I ran out of those early too.

geneb: Found a little thing for new calibration on page #217. You used the same Advanced Settings menu image for the Z-Height Option image.

Yeah, I ended up short on #6 washers and long on #4s, 6-32 1" screws, and a few other things. My rambo kit came with a few extra wire connectors I was able to make use of.

I'm waiting on some wire connectors to finalize all of my effector wiring setup, but the guide ended up working out fairly well for me.

A few things I noticed, some relevant for the guide, some not:
1) How you solder the big wires onto the Onyx matters, as well as their flexibility. Too stiff, and you'll have a hard time bending it to get around the heatshield. I nearly broke out a coping saw to make a larger notch to relieve stress on the wires.
2) The 7/64 drill bit worked fine for me mounting the LCD w/o splitting the melamine.
3) Not a manual matter, but I don't like the shortness of the Onyx bed screws - I feel like they're only engaging the T-nut by a couple threads. I need to find a specialty store around me to find some longer 4-40 flat head screws, though. 1" seems to be the longest commonly available at HD.
4) I didn't use the wiring slot on the bed to feed the Onyx wires through. It's much easier to put an XT60 connector on the bed wiring before you install the Onyx, and the wiring slot is not wide enough, plus I don't like how tight you need to s-curve the wire through it. I used the center hole instead.
5) For the belt tensioners, if you're not going to go with one of the alternate printed parts, I'd recommend using some fender washers instead of regular washers to spread the load out around the slot.
6) Tell folks to inspect their 1/8" shafts for the U-joints. I had one of them which had a couple of burrs on it (like it had been grabbed by vise-grips) preventing free rotation of the u-joint, so I had to have the seemecnc gang replace one of them - no big deal, just had to wait a couple days - nice that UPS Ground from them takes 1 day usually!
7) I needed to ream the holes in the U-joints a little bit to get them to slide on the 1/8 shafts and freely spin - I found that the tip of a small pair of needle-nose pliers worked well to chamfer the hole edge a little bit.

[Eaglezsoar]

In addition to the list provided by bdjohns1, lubrication should be provided on the axles the ujoints turn on.
Gene, you may have done this already if so my apologies.