Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

To install new arms you have to split the two platform halves. Is not too bad depending on what you have added, such as fans, LED, and wires. I was able to leave everything relatively intact. Track Laser also includes new U-joint screws. Remember the screws that sometimes prevented endstop screws from being tightened? While those have been replaced with shorter screws with a larger head.

Quick up date, The arms from Trick Laser appear to be rock solid. The end result for me was a hot end with no backlash and reduced the hysteresis I was experiencing during bed leveling. I have not had time to print a "show piece" yet because I have a lot parts that I need now/yesterday and I can actually print them! I will post some pictures soon.

HEre is the cube moments after the print.

Best cube I have ever printed. This was printed at 0.2. I though about going for 0.1 but I have not fully calibrated at that layer height and I would like to switch out my 0.5 nozzle for that. Infills are getting much better. This was done with KISS.

aerouta wrote:There is only one joint that has very very little play.

http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2 ... all-links/

"You can size the link by carefully squeezing the link while it’s on the ball. Do not use excessive force or you can break the link."





Very nice looking cube, BTW.

Jimustanguitar wrote:

aerouta wrote:There is only one joint that has very very little play.

http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2 ... all-links/

"You can size the link by carefully squeezing the link while it’s on the ball. Do not use excessive force or you can break the link."





Very nice looking cube, BTW.

thanks!!, I may give that a try. Right now the play is so small that I don't think it will be an issue. But I will keep an eye on it.

another print, getting better.
Don't ask about the brown (burn) stain... roookie mistake!!

the only thing i didn't like about the arms was the hardware they chose to use, mine actually didn't seem like they were centered when placed on there respective mounting locations. There is slight bit of play in them unlike my Chinese made counterpart but the arms seem to be a great upgrade replacement, they are super light weight. I have this going into my second rostock build.

pictures shown with replaced mounting hardware.

Yeah, the hardware is different. MY screws appear to be rapped in some type of foil or something. I noticed it during installation so I just tried to be careful with it. That is strange that yours have some play, most of mine were solid.
either way, I have notice an improvement in my prints. Part of the benefit of these arms is that I stopped questioning the condition of the joints. This allowed me to start dailing in other aspects of the printer and slicer software.

they designed it so it would be snug fit when you tighten down the rostock platform screws, similiar to the original seemecnc design. that's why they have that foil wrap around it.

I wasn't diggin it though, so I replaced it with what I have pictured above.

So I started using fans which greatly improved the ability to print overhangs with ABS. However, the inclusions of fans introduced heating issues. My heat bed, even with an upgraded 12v power supply, had issue heating above 85c and maintaining temp with fans. I would like to try to heat the bed up to ~100c on some prints so I picked up on of these. Will it be acceptable to hook up the 24v leads directly to the heatbed power inputs on rambo?

rambo is only has a 15amp fuse, the onyx will surge 18amps of current, on initial power up with a 24v power supply. most likely you will blow the 15amp fuse.
how much current does your power supply output?

You might get away with upgrading to a 20amp. Because the 18 amp surge is only for a few seconds. As the temperature of the onyx increases the current drops till you reach your set temperature.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =170#p7960

cambo3d wrote:rambo is only has a 15amp fuse, the onyx will surge 18amps of current, on initial power up with a 24v power supply. most likely you will blow the 15amp fuse.
how much current does your power supply output?

You might get away with upgrading to a 20amp. Because the 18 amp surge is only for a few seconds. As the temperature of the onyx increases the current drops till you reach your set temperature.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =170#p7960

it is a 15amp power supply.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QS ... UTF8&psc=1

in that case, you can dial down the voltage on your power supply so the onyx doesn't try to draw to much current from your power supply. That will help some.

How would I turn down the voltage?

aerouta wrote:How would I turn down the voltage?

In the red circle.


[img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7439/8723827417_bcf9b2a07d_n.jpg[/img]
Screenshot from 2013-05-09 20:08:06 by foshon, on Flickr

So I finially ordered and installed the E3D hotend. I am very impressed I with. Here is a picture of the latest print. Looks like I am extruding a little to much plastic but all in all it is pretty good. This is printed at 0.15 with no fans.

You can tell it's getting closer to Christmas when you see tree decorations being printed.
They look good.