That's it! https://github.com/polygonhell/Repetier ... evelopment
Read the 2/14 comment - enabled the LCD and SD card.
Mhackney's Rostock Max
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
-
Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
GOT IT! Man does my head hurt from all of this...Thanks to you and Polygonhell, you guys are the heart of this forum.mhackney wrote:That's it! https://github.com/polygonhell/Repetier ... evelopment
Read the 2/14 comment - enabled the LCD and SD card.
Calibration Redux
I posted this in another topic but wanted to capture here in my topic too.
Z, Max_LENGTH and Bed Level Calibration
I'm using Repetier firmware and host (on a Mac). I'm assuming you have a heated bed - ignore the pre-heating step if not!
1) Install your build surface (glass plate and/or blue tape, etc) and make sure the heated bed is up to temperature. I print ABS at 100°C bed, so that's the temp I used. The Onyx warps as it heats up so unless you have a flat surface on top of it, you will not have a planar surface to calibrate against. If you are printing on tape directly on the Onyx, do the following steps cold and deal with the warping issue depending on the location of your print, etc.
2) Calibrate Z at 0,0,0 in firmware. These are listed as the following in the firmware:
#define X_MAX_LENGTH 369.0
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH 369.0
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH 369.0
Here's how I did it: I set these to 375 so they are longer than my actual travel. Then I homed and brought the nozzle down to Z=20mm (G0 Z20 F2000). From there I used the buttons in Repetier host to slowly lower the nozzle (decrease Z) to the build surface. Start with the 10mm and then 1mm and finally .1mm for fine adjustment. I used a piece of cigarette paper (an old machinist's trick, it's about .001" thick) between the bed and nozzle (make sure your nozzle is clean!) to test the "fit" you can use a .001" (or metric equivalent) feeler gauge too. You want to bring the nozzle down until it just "snags" the paper or gauge. At this point, read the Z height on the Z axis display in Repetier Host. Subtract this number from 375mm to get your actual max lengths. For me this measurement was exactly 6.0mm, so 375.0mm - 6.0mm = 369.0mm. If you are using EEPROM settings, you can simply change this in the EEPROM without needing to recompile and upload your firmware. That makes it a lot faster to do and test. Check this at least 3 times to make sure it is reproducible using this process:
Home All - move to G0 Z10 - use buttons to lower 1mm nine times - place gauge - lower by .1mm 10 times - nozzle should just graze gauge
3) With your Z = 0 set you can adjust the planarity of the bed by adjusting the stops at the homing switches at the top of the towers. This is done one tower at a time with the nozzle positioned as close to the tower as reasonable. The process is described in the manual but use the "true" circumference points. These are:
X: G0 X-77.94 Y-45 F2000
Y: G0 X77.94 Y-45 F2000
Z: G0 X0 Y90 F2000
(note F2000 is feed rate to speed things up) These locations came from http://minow.blogspot.com (a MUST read for calibrating!)
At each one of these locations, you move down (using the Z buttons) until you get to Z=0. If you are lucky, the gauge will just graze the nozzle and you are done at that tower. If not, the nozzle will either be above the bed (case A) or the display will show that Z has not been reached (case B).
Case A Measure the gap and set the stop screw at the top of the tower (see a few lines below).
Case B Write down the extra distance the Z could go and set the stop screw as below.
Setting the stop screw: These screws are 6-32. That means they will advance .03125" per revolution. Converted to metric that is 0.79mm per revolution.
Case A - let's say that you measured a gap of .4mm. This means that the firmware thinks the tower length is .4mm shorter than it actually is! So, you need to "raise" the stop screw (lefty-loosey or counter clockwise looking from the top) .4mm - which is about 1/2 of a turn.
Case B - let's say that Repetier host shows (Z axis display) that you still have .2mm to go before reaching Z=0. This means the firmware thinks the tower length is .2mm longer than it actually is, so you need to "lower" the stop screw .2mm or about 1/8 of a turn, in this case righty-thighty or screw clockwise from the top.
That's it! Now you should go back and recheck everything 1 or 2 times to be sure.
Note that there is an advanced planarity adjustment described in the link above. I have not done this yet since my glass plate broke and I'm waiting for the replacement. If your machine is really "off" the re-check step above will show that Z=0 at X=Y=0 will not be correct. I'd adjust one more time through the entire process and if you still have this problem, then do the planarity adjustment. Hopefully I'll be there by Tuesday or Wednesday when my plate arrives!
There is an "auto calibrate" mode/command in the LCD controller firmware in Repetier. I have not had a chance to investigate it. In theory, all of the above could be accomplished in soft settings with the right math. It probably does not hurt to try to calibrate mechanically first though!
DISCLAIMER: there is some probability that there are mistakes or better ways to do the above. This is my first delta printer and I'm only a few weeks in and don't have a lot of experience yet!
NOTE/WARNING - since posting this on the original topic I tried playing around with the auto calibrate in the firmware exposed in the LCD Controller. Not intuitive and I hosed my configuration! I ultimately had to reupload the firmware with EEPROM disabled to get back to a good state. All sorts of weird things were happening!
Z, Max_LENGTH and Bed Level Calibration
I'm using Repetier firmware and host (on a Mac). I'm assuming you have a heated bed - ignore the pre-heating step if not!
1) Install your build surface (glass plate and/or blue tape, etc) and make sure the heated bed is up to temperature. I print ABS at 100°C bed, so that's the temp I used. The Onyx warps as it heats up so unless you have a flat surface on top of it, you will not have a planar surface to calibrate against. If you are printing on tape directly on the Onyx, do the following steps cold and deal with the warping issue depending on the location of your print, etc.
2) Calibrate Z at 0,0,0 in firmware. These are listed as the following in the firmware:
#define X_MAX_LENGTH 369.0
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH 369.0
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH 369.0
Here's how I did it: I set these to 375 so they are longer than my actual travel. Then I homed and brought the nozzle down to Z=20mm (G0 Z20 F2000). From there I used the buttons in Repetier host to slowly lower the nozzle (decrease Z) to the build surface. Start with the 10mm and then 1mm and finally .1mm for fine adjustment. I used a piece of cigarette paper (an old machinist's trick, it's about .001" thick) between the bed and nozzle (make sure your nozzle is clean!) to test the "fit" you can use a .001" (or metric equivalent) feeler gauge too. You want to bring the nozzle down until it just "snags" the paper or gauge. At this point, read the Z height on the Z axis display in Repetier Host. Subtract this number from 375mm to get your actual max lengths. For me this measurement was exactly 6.0mm, so 375.0mm - 6.0mm = 369.0mm. If you are using EEPROM settings, you can simply change this in the EEPROM without needing to recompile and upload your firmware. That makes it a lot faster to do and test. Check this at least 3 times to make sure it is reproducible using this process:
Home All - move to G0 Z10 - use buttons to lower 1mm nine times - place gauge - lower by .1mm 10 times - nozzle should just graze gauge
3) With your Z = 0 set you can adjust the planarity of the bed by adjusting the stops at the homing switches at the top of the towers. This is done one tower at a time with the nozzle positioned as close to the tower as reasonable. The process is described in the manual but use the "true" circumference points. These are:
X: G0 X-77.94 Y-45 F2000
Y: G0 X77.94 Y-45 F2000
Z: G0 X0 Y90 F2000
(note F2000 is feed rate to speed things up) These locations came from http://minow.blogspot.com (a MUST read for calibrating!)
At each one of these locations, you move down (using the Z buttons) until you get to Z=0. If you are lucky, the gauge will just graze the nozzle and you are done at that tower. If not, the nozzle will either be above the bed (case A) or the display will show that Z has not been reached (case B).
Case A Measure the gap and set the stop screw at the top of the tower (see a few lines below).
Case B Write down the extra distance the Z could go and set the stop screw as below.
Setting the stop screw: These screws are 6-32. That means they will advance .03125" per revolution. Converted to metric that is 0.79mm per revolution.
Case A - let's say that you measured a gap of .4mm. This means that the firmware thinks the tower length is .4mm shorter than it actually is! So, you need to "raise" the stop screw (lefty-loosey or counter clockwise looking from the top) .4mm - which is about 1/2 of a turn.
Case B - let's say that Repetier host shows (Z axis display) that you still have .2mm to go before reaching Z=0. This means the firmware thinks the tower length is .2mm longer than it actually is, so you need to "lower" the stop screw .2mm or about 1/8 of a turn, in this case righty-thighty or screw clockwise from the top.
That's it! Now you should go back and recheck everything 1 or 2 times to be sure.
Note that there is an advanced planarity adjustment described in the link above. I have not done this yet since my glass plate broke and I'm waiting for the replacement. If your machine is really "off" the re-check step above will show that Z=0 at X=Y=0 will not be correct. I'd adjust one more time through the entire process and if you still have this problem, then do the planarity adjustment. Hopefully I'll be there by Tuesday or Wednesday when my plate arrives!
There is an "auto calibrate" mode/command in the LCD controller firmware in Repetier. I have not had a chance to investigate it. In theory, all of the above could be accomplished in soft settings with the right math. It probably does not hurt to try to calibrate mechanically first though!
DISCLAIMER: there is some probability that there are mistakes or better ways to do the above. This is my first delta printer and I'm only a few weeks in and don't have a lot of experience yet!
NOTE/WARNING - since posting this on the original topic I tried playing around with the auto calibrate in the firmware exposed in the LCD Controller. Not intuitive and I hosed my configuration! I ultimately had to reupload the firmware with EEPROM disabled to get back to a good state. All sorts of weird things were happening!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Don't get those Delta Arm Blues!
Following up on my post yesterday on the controlled experiment to determine why I am getting gaps in the infill on my prints. Here are the 3 test prints laid out to show how they were printed.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v77 ... 8494-4.jpg[/img]
Note that I oriented the fill to go from the center of the build plate to the tower. You can read the details in the earlier post.
I know how this story ends so hang in there!
First, look at the part at the Z tower. It actually looks pretty reasonable and is the best infill I've had to date. At this position, there is very little movement along the axis (from the tower to the center of the table) and a lot from left to right.
Now look at the part at X. It may be hard to see but I have gaps at the arrows. This is what I typically have seen and the problem I'm trying to fix.
Then look at the part at Y, it's the worse one of the three. Gaps along multiple sides.
After thinking on this overnight, I hypothesized that one side of the Z delta arm U joints may be stiff or have backlash. I couldn't predict which side but it just seemed like Z was the culprit. I disassembled the delta arms from the Z carriage and immediately discovered that the delta arm on the X axis side was very stiff compared to the others. I took it apart and found 2 problems: 1) I had used a small screwdriver to install the arm on the aluminum bearing - BAD IDEA. I had several gouges in the face of the bearing that had burrs large enough to create a lot of friction. I also discovered that I had not "defuzzed" the delta arm U joint when I rounded the top. The fuzz had caught between the arm and joint, again adding friction. I cleaned all of this up, regreased with lithium grease, reinstalled and prepared for a test print to see if I found the problem. And here is the result - this piece was printed at the Y position so it was in the same spot as the worst of the three prints in the photo above:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v85 ... 0018-3.jpg[/img]
This part is very nice! No infill gaps and nicely filled overall.
So I am ready to proclaim that stiff delta rod U joints can lead to odd printing behavior! Given the number of folks with infill gap issues, I think re-investigating the U joint fit will eliminate those Delta Arm Blues!
Now I can go on to more fun things!
Cheers,
Michael
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v77 ... 8494-4.jpg[/img]
Note that I oriented the fill to go from the center of the build plate to the tower. You can read the details in the earlier post.
I know how this story ends so hang in there!
First, look at the part at the Z tower. It actually looks pretty reasonable and is the best infill I've had to date. At this position, there is very little movement along the axis (from the tower to the center of the table) and a lot from left to right.
Now look at the part at X. It may be hard to see but I have gaps at the arrows. This is what I typically have seen and the problem I'm trying to fix.
Then look at the part at Y, it's the worse one of the three. Gaps along multiple sides.
After thinking on this overnight, I hypothesized that one side of the Z delta arm U joints may be stiff or have backlash. I couldn't predict which side but it just seemed like Z was the culprit. I disassembled the delta arms from the Z carriage and immediately discovered that the delta arm on the X axis side was very stiff compared to the others. I took it apart and found 2 problems: 1) I had used a small screwdriver to install the arm on the aluminum bearing - BAD IDEA. I had several gouges in the face of the bearing that had burrs large enough to create a lot of friction. I also discovered that I had not "defuzzed" the delta arm U joint when I rounded the top. The fuzz had caught between the arm and joint, again adding friction. I cleaned all of this up, regreased with lithium grease, reinstalled and prepared for a test print to see if I found the problem. And here is the result - this piece was printed at the Y position so it was in the same spot as the worst of the three prints in the photo above:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v85 ... 0018-3.jpg[/img]
This part is very nice! No infill gaps and nicely filled overall.
So I am ready to proclaim that stiff delta rod U joints can lead to odd printing behavior! Given the number of folks with infill gap issues, I think re-investigating the U joint fit will eliminate those Delta Arm Blues!
Now I can go on to more fun things!
Cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
-
Polygonhell
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 2417
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:44 pm
- Location: Redmond WA
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Just a point for the calibration, DONOT believe the Z Height reading in repetier host, use M114.
Repetier host and all the othe host software I've used tracks the position separately and accumulates errors while jogging. M114 tells you exactly where the firmware thinks it is.
Repetier host and all the othe host software I've used tracks the position separately and accumulates errors while jogging. M114 tells you exactly where the firmware thinks it is.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Good tip Polygonhell! I'll start using that from now on.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
mhackney, will the calibration points you list fit on a Phebe I bed area? If not, I'll adjust them until they do fit and then add both sets of points to a new rev of the manual.
Thanks for researching this so thoroughly!
g.
Thanks for researching this so thoroughly!
g.
Delta Power!
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Hi Gene, I'm not sure if they'll fit - probably not. I have a phoebe on my H-1.1 so I'll try to measure it and see.
Cheers,
Michael
Cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
-
Polygonhell
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 2417
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:44 pm
- Location: Redmond WA
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
No they won't fit, just multiply all the numbers by 7/9 that should fit.
Any scale will retain the points in a circle which is what matters.
Any scale will retain the points in a circle which is what matters.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
LEDs!
I installed some ultra bright LEDs on my Max. After playing around with a few ideas, I decided to drill 3 small holes at a 45° angle between the U joints on the delta carriage.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v75 ... 7916-4.jpg[/img]
I supported the carriage with a roll of tape. I started the hole vertically and then once started, angled the drill to complete. It's a 13/64" bit so the wires from the LEDs fit through. I bought a bunch of these 12V LEDs for this and other projects:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3 ... 6570-4.jpg[/img]
I wired them up with a switch mounted in the LCD Controller door. There is a hole conveniently labeled "Lights"!
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v83 ... 6382-4.jpg[/img]
Wire routing:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v80 ... 6166-4.jpg[/img]
Here's a video of the Rostock taking a trial run with its new lights.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aTc7oI4-k8[/youtube]
It would be nice to have 6 LEDs but 3 fit and they are angled in towards the nozzle so they do cast a nice beam. I am thinking about shortening the length of the 3 aluminum posts that attach the barrel assembly so the nozzle protrudes more below the delta carriage, maybe another 1/2 or so. That would give me the room for a fan duct like highcooley's.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v49 ... 6310-4.jpg[/img]
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v75 ... 7916-4.jpg[/img]
I supported the carriage with a roll of tape. I started the hole vertically and then once started, angled the drill to complete. It's a 13/64" bit so the wires from the LEDs fit through. I bought a bunch of these 12V LEDs for this and other projects:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3 ... 6570-4.jpg[/img]
I wired them up with a switch mounted in the LCD Controller door. There is a hole conveniently labeled "Lights"!
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v83 ... 6382-4.jpg[/img]
Wire routing:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v80 ... 6166-4.jpg[/img]
Here's a video of the Rostock taking a trial run with its new lights.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aTc7oI4-k8[/youtube]
It would be nice to have 6 LEDs but 3 fit and they are angled in towards the nozzle so they do cast a nice beam. I am thinking about shortening the length of the 3 aluminum posts that attach the barrel assembly so the nozzle protrudes more below the delta carriage, maybe another 1/2 or so. That would give me the room for a fan duct like highcooley's.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v49 ... 6310-4.jpg[/img]
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
I had the very same thought last night, about using shorter spacers to lower the hot end, but it was to let me see the workpiece better during a print.
- dan
- dan
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Dan, that was one of the reasons I want to lower the nozzle too, it is tough to see under there!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Aluminum Onyx heat dissipator/flatener
My new borosilicate glass is due to arrive from SeeMeCNC in a couple of days. So, I'm doing some prep work for it. The Onyx is a great heated bed but like all heated beds, it isn't perfect. I have been plagued by 2 problems.
1) The center is a lot hotter than the perimeter. Even after letting the bed warm up for extended time, there is a pronounced temperature gradient. Many heated beds have this issue. The nichrome bed I made for my H-1 especially since it has a fairly short coil of nichrome. I solved the even heat problem with an aluminum (1/16" on the H-1) plate between the heated bed and glass.
2) My Onyx bed warps at high temp. The center pops up because the edges are held in place and thermal expansion wins. This may have contributed to the demise of my original window glass plate. In any case, it makes it a bugger to get the first layer or even 2 right - especially on larger prints.
So, I am going to kill 2 problems with one aluminum plate! The idea is to fasten a 1/8" thick aluminum plate over the heated bed. I decided to go with thicker aluminum for its structural strength over the 1/16". Here's a picture ready to install:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v7/ ... 7498-4.jpg[/img]
It is 12 3/16" diameter with a flat and cutout for the electrical connections at the back.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v81 ... 4304-4.jpg[/img]
This cutout will also allow the full circle borosilicate plate to rest on top and not interfere with the electronics (I can bend the LED back out of the way).
I need to get some longer 4-40 flat head screws to mount through the aluminum, Onyx, melamine, and spacers!
1) The center is a lot hotter than the perimeter. Even after letting the bed warm up for extended time, there is a pronounced temperature gradient. Many heated beds have this issue. The nichrome bed I made for my H-1 especially since it has a fairly short coil of nichrome. I solved the even heat problem with an aluminum (1/16" on the H-1) plate between the heated bed and glass.
2) My Onyx bed warps at high temp. The center pops up because the edges are held in place and thermal expansion wins. This may have contributed to the demise of my original window glass plate. In any case, it makes it a bugger to get the first layer or even 2 right - especially on larger prints.
So, I am going to kill 2 problems with one aluminum plate! The idea is to fasten a 1/8" thick aluminum plate over the heated bed. I decided to go with thicker aluminum for its structural strength over the 1/16". Here's a picture ready to install:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v7/ ... 7498-4.jpg[/img]
It is 12 3/16" diameter with a flat and cutout for the electrical connections at the back.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v81 ... 4304-4.jpg[/img]
This cutout will also allow the full circle borosilicate plate to rest on top and not interfere with the electronics (I can bend the LED back out of the way).
I need to get some longer 4-40 flat head screws to mount through the aluminum, Onyx, melamine, and spacers!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
-
Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
May I ask how you cut the aluminum so perfect?
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
The outer perimeter was cut on my 12" metal bandsaw. I cut A LOT of metal so I'm pretty good at free handing! the cutout for the back was done on one of my milling machines by hand. It's pretty simple.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
-
cjdavis618
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:08 pm
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Hey MHackney, your link from CNC zone led me here. Thanks for that.
I've got to get a table before my rostock gets here. Like a kid waiting for Santa with this kit
.
Could you tell what the outer dimensions are for this thing? Didn't see it on the SeemeCNC specs page.
I've got to get a table before my rostock gets here. Like a kid waiting for Santa with this kit
.Could you tell what the outer dimensions are for this thing? Didn't see it on the SeemeCNC specs page.
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
The MAX is 17 1/2" diameter and 37 1/2" tall - this does not include the extruder / filament spool arm that hangs off the side.
The Onyx heated plate is about 12 1/8" diameter.
cheers,
Michael
The Onyx heated plate is about 12 1/8" diameter.
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
"Oh Rats" and "Thank Heavens"!
Well, this is stupid...
The "Oh Rats" part
When I was test fitting the aluminum sub-plate I had my Rostock connected to Repetier and plugged in. Nothing was on and the heaters were off. The aluminum contacted the electrical pad in the back and I got a little spark. So I immediately shut things down - I didn't realize I had it on actually.
Then when I hooked things up for a dry run I noticed the heated bed temp was 174°C! "That's not good" thought I and indeed it was not good. I measured the resistance of the thermistor and it was fine. I plugged the bed thermistor into the hot end jack and it was fine. I plugged the hot end thermistor into the heated bed jack and got an off the wall temp. So, it looks like I blew something on the RAMBo - probably the little capacitor. This is not a fused circuit.
The "Thank Heavens" part
The RAMBo has 4 heat control circuits. Two are for hotends and thermistors, one for the heated bed and there is an extra. So, a quick look at the RAMBo Development turned up the pin assignments. Pin 3 is the original pin assignment for the heated bed thermistor. Pin 7 is the thermistor input for the 4th thermistor connector on the RAMBo board. So, I edited Pins.h to:
#define HEATER_BED_PIN 3
//#define TEMP_BED_PIN 2
// I popped the thermistor input on my RAMBo
so I'm using the 4th thermistor connector on the board.
#define TEMP_BED_PIN 7
Recompile, upload and all is well again.
The "Oh Rats" part
When I was test fitting the aluminum sub-plate I had my Rostock connected to Repetier and plugged in. Nothing was on and the heaters were off. The aluminum contacted the electrical pad in the back and I got a little spark. So I immediately shut things down - I didn't realize I had it on actually.
Then when I hooked things up for a dry run I noticed the heated bed temp was 174°C! "That's not good" thought I and indeed it was not good. I measured the resistance of the thermistor and it was fine. I plugged the bed thermistor into the hot end jack and it was fine. I plugged the hot end thermistor into the heated bed jack and got an off the wall temp. So, it looks like I blew something on the RAMBo - probably the little capacitor. This is not a fused circuit.
The "Thank Heavens" part
The RAMBo has 4 heat control circuits. Two are for hotends and thermistors, one for the heated bed and there is an extra. So, a quick look at the RAMBo Development turned up the pin assignments. Pin 3 is the original pin assignment for the heated bed thermistor. Pin 7 is the thermistor input for the 4th thermistor connector on the RAMBo board. So, I edited Pins.h to:
#define HEATER_BED_PIN 3
//#define TEMP_BED_PIN 2
// I popped the thermistor input on my RAMBo
so I'm using the 4th thermistor connector on the board.#define TEMP_BED_PIN 7
Recompile, upload and all is well again.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
-
Highcooley
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:23 am
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Luckey you 
Another thing I am a bit reluctant to are the PCB through holes on the onyx board. Did you insulate them with some Kapton tape in order not to short over the aluminium plate?
Another thing I am a bit reluctant to are the PCB through holes on the onyx board. Did you insulate them with some Kapton tape in order not to short over the aluminium plate?
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
I have a version 2 Onyx and there are no electrical traces out where the holes are so it is safe to mount directly.
As for the little holes and thermistor hole, I am thinking about using some capton tape over those. I have some very thin tape that I was experimenting with on an unrelated project, It should be just right.
As for the little holes and thermistor hole, I am thinking about using some capton tape over those. I have some very thin tape that I was experimenting with on an unrelated project, It should be just right.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
-
Highcooley
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:23 am
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
That's the holes I meant. So capton it is.mhackney wrote:I have a version 2 Onyx and there are no electrical traces out where the holes are so it is safe to mount directly.
As for the little holes and thermistor hole, I am thinking about using some capton tape over those. I have some very thin tape that I was experimenting with on an unrelated project, It should be just right.
I'm thinking about the opposite of a thick aluminium plate. I am wondering if thick aluminium foil could already do the job, as I don't want to make the whole sandwitch bigger.
-
Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
I can get a 5/32" x 12" aluminum circle on Ebay for about $20. Do you think that it work just to place the aluminum over the heat bed without screwing it down?mhackney wrote:The outer perimeter was cut on my 12" metal bandsaw. I cut A LOT of metal so I'm pretty good at free handing! the cutout for the back was done on one of my milling machines by hand. It's pretty simple.
I just noticed that the borasilic glass Seemecnc sells is just a little smaller than the heat bed and would cover up the led area if it is centered, I guess you are supposed to let it hang over the edge of the bed?
You would think the glass would be the size of the white circle, 280mm but the glass is 300 mm. Weird that they would do that.
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
@highcooley - Foil should work fine for spreading the heat. Do you have trouble with your Onyx warping or does your glass surface stay flat? I'm probably overkilling a bit!
@Eaglezsoar - that is just a scooch over 1/8" and should be fine. You will probably be able to drill and countersink holes in the edge to mount if you wanted.
If SeeMeCNC made the plate the size of the white circle you would sacrifice build surface with mounting clips. I guess most folks do hang them over the front. A better solution would be to cut a flat like I did on my original glass plate to clear the electronic area. If you do that with the aluminum plate, it acts as a spacer so a round glass plate will fit on top and cover over the electrical area. That's what I'll do.
@Eaglezsoar - that is just a scooch over 1/8" and should be fine. You will probably be able to drill and countersink holes in the edge to mount if you wanted.
If SeeMeCNC made the plate the size of the white circle you would sacrifice build surface with mounting clips. I guess most folks do hang them over the front. A better solution would be to cut a flat like I did on my original glass plate to clear the electronic area. If you do that with the aluminum plate, it acts as a spacer so a round glass plate will fit on top and cover over the electrical area. That's what I'll do.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
-
Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
You are full of great ideas, I didn't think about the aluminum acting as a spacer so the glass fits the way it should. I'm ordering the aluminum circle. Thanks again for the great tip, I sure am glad that you are on this forum!mhackney wrote:@highcooley - Foil should work fine for spreading the heat. Do you have trouble with your Onyx warping or does your glass surface stay flat? I'm probably overkilling a bit!
@Eaglezsoar - that is just a scooch over 1/8" and should be fine. You will probably be able to drill and countersink holes in the edge to mount if you wanted.
If SeeMeCNC made the plate the size of the white circle you would sacrifice build surface with mounting clips. I guess most folks do hang them over the front. A better solution would be to cut a flat like I did on my original glass plate to clear the electronic area. If you do that with the aluminum plate, it acts as a spacer so a round glass plate will fit on top and cover over the electrical area. That's what I'll do.
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
So I did put some little strips of thin capton tape over the several groups of little holes and the thermistor hole on the Onyx. I also had a scrape through where my nozzle gouged through the tape into the paint on the Onyx. The tape is thinner than the silkscreened writing.
All of my local hardware stores are closed for the holiday this evening so I didn't get the longer screws that I need. So, to do a quick test I eliminated the melamine snowflake spacer and just used little standoffs (I have some aluminum ones about the size of the plastic ones in the kit). I won't run like this since I think the Snowflake will help prevent bowing and provides some insulation.
Here's the cool part (actually, "hot" part!) the temperature across the entire build surface only varies by 5°D at 80°C! This is without a glass plate on top. I'll let it equilibrate for 15 minutes and check again. But, this definitely distributes the heat evenly! The aluminum plate all the way to the edge is hot!
All of my local hardware stores are closed for the holiday this evening so I didn't get the longer screws that I need. So, to do a quick test I eliminated the melamine snowflake spacer and just used little standoffs (I have some aluminum ones about the size of the plastic ones in the kit). I won't run like this since I think the Snowflake will help prevent bowing and provides some insulation.
Here's the cool part (actually, "hot" part!) the temperature across the entire build surface only varies by 5°D at 80°C! This is without a glass plate on top. I'll let it equilibrate for 15 minutes and check again. But, this definitely distributes the heat evenly! The aluminum plate all the way to the edge is hot!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler