Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

lightninjay wrote:

rpress wrote:So has anyone figured out the significance of the name "Albertus Magnus"? All my computer names are after philosophers, but I found this guy particularly fitting.

According to Wikipedia, he's basically the guy we have to thank for Aristotelian logic having made it to this century. Am I right?

That's true, but not quite what I'm going for. He is rumoured to have discovered the "philosopher's stone" which he used to create "alchemical gold" by way of "transmutation". And similarly my printer can turn common plastic into valuable items.

http://historyofalchemy.com/list-of-alc ... us-magnus/

Silly and obscure, I know. But that's how I am, heh.

rpress wrote:

lightninjay wrote:

rpress wrote:So has anyone figured out the significance of the name "Albertus Magnus"? All my computer names are after philosophers, but I found this guy particularly fitting.

According to Wikipedia, he's basically the guy we have to thank for Aristotelian logic having made it to this century. Am I right?

That's true, but not quite what I'm going for. He is rumoured to have discovered the "philosopher's stone" which he used to create "alchemical gold" by way of "transmutation". And similarly my printer can turn common plastic into valuable items.

http://historyofalchemy.com/list-of-alc ... us-magnus/

Silly and obscure, I know. But that's how I am, heh.

I think that may be even better than what I named my printer for haha

He should have gone with Edward Elric.

g.

I've unlocked a few more CPU cycles on the Raspberry Pi. I've bypassed the USB connection and I'm going direct from the serial pins on the R-Pi header to the serial pins on the RAMBo board. To get 250000 bps I needed to add init_uart_clock=16000000 to /boot/config.txt. The USB cable is now unplugged, thereby freeing the CPU from dealing with that USB overhead. With this change the R-Pi is no longer the limiting factor, the RAMBo board is, and the R-Pi has 85% CPU utilization at the worst.

geneb wrote:He should have gone with Edward Elric.

g.

I like it, an Anime twist!

I noticed the stepper drivers on the RAMBo were kinda hot. Not real bad, but I figure cooler is better. I put on some teeny adhesive heatsinks, to the top of the chip and also underneath on the circuit board. http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-C ... B007XACV8O
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-l1vo ... 012_180004[/img]
You can also see my serial port direct connection, the black/white/gray wires.

I installed the Arduino tools on the R-Pi so I can compile the firmware and upload it direct. This way I don't have to mess with the USB cord to update the firmware. I had to make a bunch of changes to the Repetier-Firmware to get it to cleanly compile but it seems to be working fine. I fixed some things like the knob direction, quieted down the beeper, and went back to the stock menu. With the menu change I can look at the internal buffers to see if they are running out.

Aurora900 wrote:I think that may be even better than what I named my printer for haha

So yeah I just had to know what you named your printer, so I read your build thread. It's a fun read, and I like your printer's name too! When a name has an interesting back story it's more fun that way.

rpress wrote:

Aurora900 wrote:I think that may be even better than what I named my printer for haha

So yeah I just had to know what you named your printer, so I read your build thread. It's a fun read, and I like your printer's name too! When a name has an interesting back story it's more fun that way.

Thanks. Yeah, I don't usually name things, I never come up with anything good... but this one I didn't have to think twice about, I knew exactly what it had to be

You probably didn't want to do that. Those driver chips are designed to "route" heat into the board they're soldered to. A heatsink would be more effective if you were to attach it to the back side of the RAMBo where the drivers are.

g.

geneb wrote:You probably didn't want to do that. Those driver chips are designed to "route" heat into the board they're soldered to. A heatsink would be more effective if you were to attach it to the back side of the RAMBo where the drivers are.

g.

I didn't post a pic of the back because it was already together. But yeah I put them on the back to start and because I had 20 of them I put them on the front too.

rpress wrote:I put on some teeny adhesive heatsinks, to the top of the chip and also underneath on the circuit board.

I mounted up the E3D V6 hotend with the SeeMeCNC plywood adapter. I grabbed a few 1-3/8" #6 stand-offs from work, and it worked out great. I need to figure out some kind of LED so I can see with my camera when the lights are off. It doesn't need to be that bright.
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hacC ... 015_164338[/img]

And I got my Raspberry Pi camera working, I needed a 24" cable to reach the Pi. The camera has quite good image quality, but it does take a lot more CPU than my Logitech webcam. I don't need any kind of frame rate so I set it to 1 FPS and 1080p, and this uses hardly any CPU. I have an iPhone 0.67x lens on there and the quality is great.
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YuJ6 ... 015_164107[/img]

Here is the view from the camera itself.
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/2nBAa ... 62-h541-no[/img]

Finished the FSR bed sensors for auto leveling. JohnSL's board works great, they're quite sensitive.

[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xfTc ... 135418.jpg[/img]
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Tt6U ... 140909.jpg[/img]

Perhaps some more info on the sensors.
I understand how they work but I am curious what software you will use to
make them act as bed levelers.

They act the same as a Z probe, but with virtually no offset. The three sensors are combined by the board to one limit switch input.

For now I am using the G32 in Repetier-Firmware for calibration. Seems okay so far. I have read of some error in this function so maybe I will switch to a host controlled software leveling like MatterControl has (I think). Even without auto leveling, the printer can show the Z height for each tower so it makes manual adjustment very easy.

I installed some LEDs into the platform, now I can use the camera when the room lights are off. There are 2 parallel strings of 3 LEDs in series, with one 47 ohm resistor for current limiting. Measured current is 23 mA per LED. It's driven by 12V off the hotend fan.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... ND/4515696

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-II36 ... 022_171454[/img]

Love the Raspberry Pi w/ camera mounted. I have been looking for something to do with my RP for a while and this would be awesome to check up on prints while I'm at work.

Dual cold ends! Today I will play with the gcode necessary to work the retractions needed for the upsilon.

[img]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lSIF ... 023_173810[/img]

People have requested info on the FSR mount so here is a simple drawing:

[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VK6K ... 065907.jpg[/img]

There is not much play in the mount, as I didn't want the bed moving around. So it's important that the mount is tightened when the bed is up to temperature.

Please report your experience with the Ypsilon.
My Extruders are mounted as well, but I didn´t find the time to install and test the Ypsilon. have to go back to my Rambo as well due to I´m on Azteeg X5 actually. Maybe I will buy a smoothieboard. Or buy another Rostock... hm.

Maybe you can post more pics and hopefully a video where the rectration is shown during prints.
And of course pics of your dual colour prints....

cheers
Dirk

I have played with the Upsilon a bit and it does work. I retract 100mm, it is enough. But sometimes it jams because of a thin string from the retracted filament. I am going to try a larger tube from the Upsilon to the hotend, maybe this will allow it to work without jamming.

I was worried about leaving the printer unattended, so I installed a thermal fuse in the bed. This one is rated for 192C trip. I don't know what temperature the wood will ignite at but this is better than nothing. It is installed in series with the soft-on switch so it doesn't need to deal with inrush current of the power supply but it will still shut everything off it it gets too hot. After the photo I have covered it in RTV and put the heated bed on top. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... 17-1139+ND

[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0_14 ... 026_100528[/img]

It's in the 425F to 450F range. Your fuse should kill the heat before it even starts to smoke. Melamine is slightly fire retardant as well. It offgasses nitrogen when it burns, which will put out the fire.

barry99705 wrote:It's in the 425F to 450F range. Your fuse should kill the heat before it even starts to smoke. Melamine is slightly fire retardant as well. It offgasses nitrogen when it burns, which will put out the fire.

Thanks for the info. I feel a lot better knowing the fuse should protect me in case something goes wrong. Especially since I have the 24V bed, things could go south pretty quickly.

You mentioned you are using Repetier .92, could you post your configuration.h or a config.json? I have .91 and I created it with the config tool, but it won't accept my configuration file as a "file that it created" :/

Here is my Configuration.h; I copied my settings into the web tool, it's pretty straightforward. Beware that I have changed a lot of things on my printer, so no warranty express or implied. I have also modified the software a bit so some of my changes reflect that.

May I ask where you guys found .92 of the Repetier firmware?
I go to Repetier.com and all I see is .91 and older. THX!

Eaglezsoar wrote:May I ask where you guys found .92 of the Repetier firmware?
I go to Repetier.com and all I see is .91 and older. THX!

start the config tool, on the first page you will see .92 link

Eaglezsoar wrote:May I ask where you guys found .92 of the Repetier firmware?
I go to Repetier.com and all I see is .91 and older. THX!

It's in the GitHub repository.
https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Fi ... ee/work092