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geneb wrote:It's also possible that the 5V rail on the power supply died.

g.

You got me on that one Gene, where is 5V used from the power supply?

Turns out there are 3 fusses on the RAMBo v1.2 controller. There is 1 large 15 amp and 2 small NANO2 fuses.
I set my multimeter to continuity and tested both fuses and found the F3 had blown!

The F2 (NANO2 fuse) = is for the Motors.
The F3 (NANO2 fuses) = is for Logic, Heat, Fans.
The F4 (large fuse) = Is for the Heat Bed.

I switched the F2 and F3 fuse and got my LCD display working (and I assume everything else on that circuit).
So once I replace that some what over priced fuse I "should" be back in action! I may create an adapter so I can use standard auto fuses (much cheaper).
Thanks everyone for you assistance.

Glad you found the problem! I get the fuses from Mouser and I use the 10 amp version
The cost is expensive for just a fuse but I get a 10 pack which helps a little on the cost.

So, I just want to clarify so if this happens in the future we can more easily diagnose, with F3 or F2 "blown" you should see some LEDs lit on the board. When I asked earlier you said there were NO LEDs lit up. Can you confirm this please? I blew F3 on my RAMBo earlier this week and there were indeed other LEDs on the board lit up.

thanks

from the Rambo RepRapWiki:

Rambo RepRapWiki wrote:F2 supplies the motors and on-board power supply.
F3 supplies the extruder heater and fan outputs.
F4 is a 15A ATO (the type found in many automotives). F4 supplies the heated bed output.

It is different from the picture you displayed... maybe a difference in versions ?

mhackney wrote:So, I just want to clarify so if this happens in the future we can more easily diagnose, with F3 or F2 "blown" you should see some LEDs lit on the board. When I asked earlier you said there were NO LEDs lit up. Can you confirm this please? I blew F3 on my RAMBo earlier this week and there were indeed other LEDs on the board lit up.

thanks

I blew my F3 fuse and had no LED activity on my board, it went completely black (the cooling fan was the only thing running).
When I moved the good fuse from F2 fuse holder and put in the F3 fuse holder both the Red and Green LEDs light up as well and the LCD display.

It is possible that I am not out of the woods yet and that there was an electronic failure on the board that lead to the F3 fuse being blown. Once I get a replacement fuse I will be able to properly test things and know where I stand.

enggmaug wrote:from the Rambo RepRapWiki:

Rambo RepRapWiki wrote:F2 supplies the motors and on-board power supply.
F3 supplies the extruder heater and fan outputs.
F4 is a 15A ATO (the type found in many automotives). F4 supplies the heated bed output.

It is different from the picture you displayed... maybe a difference in versions ?

I got my info and Pic from the same RAMBo wiki : )
I believe I have a RAMBo v1.2

http://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_v1.2#Fuses

Eaglezsoar wrote:Glad you found the problem! I get the fuses from Mouser and I use the 10 amp version
The cost is expensive for just a fuse but I get a 10 pack which helps a little on the cost.

Thanks for the tip, they do have better prices than what I found on amazon, but $7 shipping on a 3mm x 3mm x 6mm item still seems a little steep.
It's always the shipping and handling that gets you! The cost of getting your printer running "priceless"!

According to the RAMBo wiki "an example part number for replacement fuses is 0448005.MR"
5A http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lit ... QEM1wS4Q==

Similar higher amp fuses (you run a higher risk of frying something):
7A http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lit ... 1UOaGn0%3d
10A http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lit ... cb4QHKo%3d

Eaglezsoar wrote:

geneb wrote:It's also possible that the 5V rail on the power supply died.

g.

You got me on that one Gene, where is 5V used from the power supply?

*sigh*

This is why I shouldn't post when I'm sick. Move along citizen! Nothing to see here....

g.

geneb wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:

geneb wrote:It's also possible that the 5V rail on the power supply died.

g.

You got me on that one Gene, where is 5V used from the power supply?

*sigh*

This is why I shouldn't post when I'm sick. Move along citizen! Nothing to see here....

g.

Nothing wrong with your statement Gene. It is a fact. Might not be relevant to the OP's problem, but you are correct, the 5V rail on the PS may have indeed died.

mhackney wrote:Nothing wrong with your statement Gene. It is a fact. Might not be relevant to the OP's problem, but you are correct, the 5V rail on the PS may have indeed died.

Let's not forget that the -12v and the 3.3v rails could have also gave up the ghost.

True that.

I borrowed a 5 Amp Nano fuse from a guy at work (a fellow Max owner) and fired up the printer. Everything appears to be working as expected!

I suspect the original cause of the blown fuse was the Peek and PLA fan wires that are dangling and bouncing around at the hot end. The most likely touched and shorted causing the fuse to blow. I taped them off and will see if i can print something off tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys!

I just did this exact same thing!!
I was so excited to start printing that I did a sloppy job taping the layer fan wires and they ended up getting bumped around and shorted on my 4th part.

I have to ask: has everything been working well over the past few weeks after replacing the 5A fuse?
(My replacement part is on order, but part of me is going to continue to wonder if I've done any damage to the rest of the circuit....)

Same thing happened here, blown the fuse and switched places on the board to test them. This is because of the wires dangling. A good reminder in the manual would be helpful but then again if we had the fan shrouds in the first place this wouldn't be an issue either. I also melted the peek area not realizing that the extruder can not take the heat settings for Nylon without a fan on the peek! - this should also be noted in the manual. I decided to buy an all metal hotend.. I would ideally rather SEEMECNC not to send me any junk/fragile replacements.. and something quality based instead. These issues should be resolved or at least give the customer the option of not buying SEEMEECNC's hotend in the purchase and perhaps list a few selectable compatible end effectors mods as part of the kit to include for other extruders.

The stock hot end can't take nylon temps AT ALL, regardless of whether or not you printed the PEEK fan.

The stock hot end is neither junk, nor fragile.

g.

Yikes! I think this might warrant a warning in an updated assembly guide too.

I just did the same thing...dangling fan wires must have hit something...poof, whole machine went dead. I thought I'd fried the whole thing. Very scary.

Now I have to try and track down the fuses. Bummer.

The max temp of the hotend is on page 233 in case it was missed.

Just as a quick note...while waiting for the Littlefuses from Amazon, I cobbled something together by jumping wires off of the dead fuse onto a 5A 120v fast acting fuse and everything worked great. Completed the fan shroud print, no problem. (I know, probably not completely kosher, but it worked fine and it's only temporary). My hardware store carries some decent mini fuses.

This was DEFINITELY an issue with shorting fan wires.

So be careful assemblers...this can happen for sure!

My temporary fuse fix didn't turn out to be temporary. I keep forgetting to order replacements.

Mack- If you'd like one, PM me your address and I'll throw one in an envelope. I have four extra now and I'm hoping to not burn anymore out for some time...although I just jinxed myself by saying that.

Oh no, you're not going to get me involved in your jinx! Besides, I needed a 10 amp fuse, not a 5. But thanks anyways!

Ha! Gotcha...someone else will stumble upon this someday.

I just stumbled across this! Had the same thing happen. I was adding a cooling fan with a shroud I printed to my extruder motor, and when soldering the wires up top I accidentally shorted them. Blew the 5A fan nano fuse. I just need one, I don't see this being a regular problem. aTanguay, still have one you could mail? Thanks!