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geneb,

Your assembly guide is awesome thanks.

I started my kit using the 2nd edition guide and got to the effector. The effector I got looked completely different than the effector in the guide. I noticed the v2 guide you are working on and that has a picture of my effector It lookes like i have a sort of hybrid: v1 cheapskate U-joint mount and V2 effector.

I can not think of how to use the clips on the effector and get free rotating U-joints. Please give me a little hint.

Thanks, Mike

When I get to that point in the build, I will!

Doctor appts are eating my time today.

g.

I pushed a new release of the v2 manual last night - there's enough there to show you guys how easy it is to build the base.

g.

geneb wrote:I pushed a new release of the v2 manual last night - there's enough there to show you guys how easy it is to build the base.

Bingo, that update and the detail involved in the build manual was enough to push me over the edge to pull the trigger and order a V2!

Can't wait to get building!

Rotated "Fig. 6-11: T-Slot nut plate orientation." a little bit.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/9kU9xv3.png[/img]

New download link: http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf

118 pages into it so far.

g.

One thing I've noticed is that the wires are always going through the holes for the hot end. It is probably me but I never do that - primarily since if I have a blow out, it's easier to rewire a specific part - like a thermistor when it's outside of the holes.

I'm pretty sure that is not likely to change but I thought I would mention it. We all have our own little best practices.

Regarding foil on heating resistors, I never used it. The RTV really does work just fine.

Thanks Gene!

The new hot end adapter is designed such that you don't run the wires through those holes any longer.

I'll be using Andy's photos for the hot end build and "hard wired" install, and my photos & process for using a 4 pin LP connector and two JST connectors for the hot end and fans. I got hooked on those 4 pin connectors from my LulzBot. They're perfect for doing quick-change hot-ends.

g.

Caught this on my last build: On page 158 of the V1 manual, a typo - axes - should be axises?

1. Funny, I truly wish they included the head connectors in the kit. In fact, why not every part you need - just bring tools...

2. Using Kapton tape before and then right after soldering down the leads on the heated bed helps things. Squeezing a little bit of RTV after creates a protective surface around it.

3. I also use painters tape around the head before the RTV, and then use a razor knife to trim the excess off, then just peel the tape back. Helps keep things pretty.

Lastly, Gene, if you're writing docs, maybe a 2-3 page table of photos of bad prints and suspected reasons why they are bad (too little/much plastic, speed, edge lift, etc)

Whee!

Gene is in the middle of writing the documentation for the V2 and adding more to the Orion docs.
Perhaps he can add your request to his long term planning, but he is under enough stress right now.

The plural of "axis" is "axes".

The bad prints thing is a good idea, but it's more of a wiki thing than an assembly manual thing.

If you want to make a quick-change hot end, you only need to buy one connector as the RAMBo parts baggie has extra four pin female connectors and pins in it.

g.

I'm confused on the list of required materials: it includes

• Thread locking glue. (Loctite, etc – it’s used on the stepper motors)

and

• Blue thread locking compound (Loctite or Permatex Threadlocker Blue)

What's the difference? It's especially confusing when, to install the stepper motor drive gear, you need "blue thread locking compound."

Thanks,
Dan

aaaand that's why it's called a Work In Progress.

They're both describing the same thing Dan. Blue Loctite or Permatex Blue Thread Locker is what you want.

g.

geneb wrote:The plural of "axis" is "axes".

The bad prints thing is a good idea, but it's more of a wiki thing than an assembly manual thing.

If you want to make a quick-change hot end, you only need to buy one connector as the RAMBo parts baggie has extra four pin female connectors and pins in it.

g.

Good tip!

And eternally sorry for the typo thing. That's probably why I didn't vote for Bush or Chaney.

geneb wrote:aaaand that's why it's called a Work In Progress.

Well, yeah! I'm always happy to point out problems, but please know that we all appreciate your work and the fact that you're willing to put it out there, unfinished, for people to shoot at. The final results will be great.

geneb wrote: They're both describing the same thing Dan. Blue Loctite or Permatex Blue Thread Locker is what you want.

Thanks. I've ordered the blue stick form, rather than the blue liquid; is there a functional difference? (If so, you might want to put it in the manual.)


Thanks again,
Dan

T-Nuts - In the past, I have used two plastic washers to draw in the t-nuts but I like the idea of washers instead. It's easier.

Also, putting a little super glue on them helps. Good tip!

Wow, they really changed quite a bit in the R2! Tempting! I'll have to take a close look at it when I'm there next week!

In the new manual, page 58 - 59 - between when the RTV has set and when you solder, how about suggesting that a continuity check be done to ensure you're not soldering down (and cutting extra wire) a shorted thermistor.

Also, the LED - I think previously you mentioned the flat side pointing to the right. Might be a good idea to say it again.

I looked over your WIP manual as well and found it to be very solid and easy to understand.
All the photos really help and while I didn’t click on and watch any of the youtube video links I think that is a great additional bit of info to include.

I personally would split the tools and materials into 2 chunks, and note anything necessary or strongly recommended, but that’s just me (put it at the top of the list in a box or with an asterisk so it gets the reader’s attention). I would also include the must have materials on your main webpage under the “Here's what you will need to complete the assembly:” section. I see you listed High temp Silicone, but sounds like it should be the “copper” type. I’ll place an order for these items on amazon when I order my printer so I’ll have everything I need when my printer arrives.

It sounds like you need:

• PermaTex Ultra Copper High Temp RTV
  Uninsulated crimp on connectors, sized for 22-18ga wire (Radio Shack P/N 640-3036 is an excellent choice).
  Thread locking glue. (Loctite, Permatex, etc).
  1/2” wide roll of Kapton tape
  Electrician's tape
  Zip ties
  And some optional RC car style connectors if you want quick disconnects (the photos and links you provided for these were great btw).

This is very nitpicky I know, but it might save people a trip or two to the store or worse a week waiting on an order from amazon. You kind of hype up the “this is a complete kit with every nut and bolt” at the top of the page (which it pretty much is), so listing the few materials needed at the bottom would be useful when ordering. I just hate when I get working on something and have to stop because I don’t have all the necessary supplies on hand : )

Lanty wrote: This is very nitpicky I know, but it might save people a trip or two to the store or worse a week waiting on an order from amazon. You kind of hype up the “this is a complete kit with every nut and bolt” at the top of the page (which it pretty much is), so listing the few materials needed at the bottom would be useful when ordering. I just hate when I get working on something and have to stop because I don’t have all the necessary supplies on hand : )

Hi Lanty, you might want to save the marketing feedback for Steve or John. I agree with you that you should only have to bring tools and RTV. It's silly to spend an hour getting a connector or three. It's not a great use of time. Even in a large metro like San Diego, it is hard to get all of the stuff you might need.

As far as I know, they're going to be including the crimp on connectors for the hot end when the shipment arrives...

I'm only the volunteer wonk that writes the manuals - I don't have any access to change things on the website.

g.

Bad news: my Rostock Max v2 Black kit arrives today, and the v2 manual isn't complete

Mr. G: if there's anything you want me to look at about my kit, or pictures you wish you'd taken but can't because yours is (partially) completed, let me know and I'll do what I can. I can't go full-time at it, but expect to complete it in a week or two.


Thanks in advance for the manual,
Dan

The good news is that I finished the assembly write-up today - 188 pages and 399 photos. The visual BOM needs tweaking, but by and large it's all good.

I'm starting on the software end tomorrow.

Be advised that the RAMBo does NOT include firmware with the v2 - you'll need to upload that, but that's the first thing I'm going to cover after I cover the driver install.

g.

geneb wrote:The good news is that I finished the assembly write-up today - 188 pages and 399 photos. The visual BOM needs tweaking, but by and large it's all good.

I'm starting on the software end tomorrow.

Be advised that the RAMBo does NOT include firmware with the v2 - you'll need to upload that, but that's the first thing I'm going to cover after I cover the driver install.

g.

Another good job, Gene.

Well, I've started opening up the various bags and wrapped packages, and SeeMeCNC has rearranged the parts on the melamine sheets since sending you your kit. I'll take and post pictures of mine.

Here are photos of my kit's melamine sheets. It looks like SMC rearranged and spread things out a bit, which makes sense since the cost of the material is pretty minimal.

On the fourth sheet, I wasn't able to separate one piece, as the laser hadn't even penetrated the bottom laminate sheet. The laser kerf is too narrow for my #11 blade to get through from the top, and I'd be completely winging it if I tried to cut from the bottom. I'll be asking SMC for a replacement.

Gene, feel free to use the photos in your manual if you find them useful.


Dan