Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

If you're using the repetier firmware it will be called PRINTER_RADIUS

It does not matter, if you add the offset at DELTA_RADIUS or PRINTER_RADIUS, because DELTA_RADIUS is calculated out of PRINTER_RADIUS and PRINTER_RADIUS is not used anywhere else.

G'Day all,

First time poster here, I recently purchased myself a Rostock MAX (last few weeks), and have spent many hours trying to calibrate the hotend movement, I think I have finally achieved this, now to calibrate the filament settings anyway. I found this image today, it's based on the Cerberus, which by the looks of it is very similar to the Rostock design. It shows what the different variables represent and may help others calibrate their Rostock. Especially if you are going to use custom parts.

[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wqbD ... 008+AM.jpg[/img]

Cheers

That diagram is worth 1,000 forum posts! Thank you!

It's worth noting that only 2 dimensions are actually used directly in the computation, the DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD and DELTA_RADIUS. The other values are just there to compute DELTA_RADIUS from more easily measured values.

Having a problem here after following these directions and the ones from here http://minow.blogspot.com.au/

In preparation for working on an auto-leveling scheme (still waiting on my rare earth magents to arrive), I thought I'd check everything. I've been having success printing smaller objects in the center of the print bed, but problems working outwards...

I've got the towers all equal, and the center equal with the towers..all are within I would say .05 of a mm...close enough for now.

HOWEVER...when I try to draw a radius, I see that the print head lifts up (domes) as it moves *between* towers along the radius...it appears to be different between each tower a bit, and it's fairly significant near the edge of the build platform (it lifts up by 2-3 mm!)...enough to make it impossilbe to print in this space.

I'm at a bit of a loss for how to troubleshoot this one.

FYI: I've installed the tricklaser carbon fiber arms, and measured them to be 1mm longer than the stock ones (I updatd the firmware setting for delta_diagonal_rod).

I'm running the production (not dev) build of the repetier fimware from seemecnc, and have made the adjustments for my v1 rambo.

Any ideas where to start on this?

OK...I think I've got it...

I found in another thread that apparently the # of teeth in the pully's has also changed since the indiegogo campaign (I don't remember seeing that before...)

I changed the #teeth setting in the firmware from 20 to 15 and recalibrated...now it's not lifting between towers...

It amazes me that I was able to get some pretty darn good prints with this setting wrong...

Usually when it lifts or dips between the edge and perimeter it would be a matter of changing PRINTER_RADIUS. I found that increasing this by .05 would raise the print head by about 1 thou at the perimeter, relative to the center. I like to use a $10 depth gauge (accurate to 1 thou) and the SeeMe pen holder, although you can get the same thing for free off Thingiverse as long as your printer works well enough to print it.

I got the Hall-Θ endstop board from here: http://mauk.cc/webshop/index.php?route= ... duct_id=50
Then there's the holder for the endstop: http://www.marcoantonini.eu/doku.php?id ... :bed_level

Once I have the metal rod, magnet, and screws, I'll do a write up. I think a couple other people are doing so as well.

Edit: I will need to redesign the Hall-Θ holder to work with the Rostock MAX effector, which has different screw spacing than the (Kossel?) platform that guy is using. I'm going to see if I can redesign it to work with nozzles from different vendors, which have different heights between the nozzle tip and the effector. One size fits all, hopefully. Also with Imperial measurement stuff (3/8" instead of 5mm magnet cubes, and metal rods in sizes you can get from McMaster-Carr.)

626Pilot wrote:Usually when it lifts or dips between the edge and perimeter it would be a matter of changing PRINTER_RADIUS. I found that increasing this by .05 would raise the print head by about 1 thou at the perimeter, relative to the center. I like to use a $10 depth gauge (accurate to 1 thou) and the SeeMe pen holder, although you can get the same thing for free off Thingiverse as long as your printer works well enough to print it.

I got the Hall-Θ endstop board from here: http://mauk.cc/webshop/index.php?route= ... duct_id=50
Then there's the holder for the endstop: http://www.marcoantonini.eu/doku.php?id ... :bed_level

Once I have the metal rod, magnet, and screws, I'll do a write up. I think a couple other people are doing so as well.

Edit: I will need to redesign the Hall-Θ holder to work with the Rostock MAX effector, which has different screw spacing than the (Kossel?) platform that guy is using. I'm going to see if I can redesign it to work with nozzles from different vendors, which have different heights between the nozzle tip and the effector. One size fits all, hopefully. Also with Imperial measurement stuff (3/8" instead of 5mm magnet cubes, and metal rods in sizes you can get from McMaster-Carr.)

It looks as though the automatic bed leveling requires Marlin firmware, is that correct?

Eaglezsoar wrote: It looks as though the automatic bed leveling requires Marlin firmware, is that correct?

I think so. Someone in the other thread about auto leveling said he was going to try to port it to Repetier.

...Then again, here is this: https://github.com/Crash1/Repetier-Firmware

It's a fork of Repetier, a few months old. It seems to have the delta code in it. I don't know whether or how it works.