ERIS Early adopter feedback

[gkrangan]

what kind of print speeds has everyone been running recently?

I'm using the defaults as of now.

external_perimeter_speed = 25
first_layer_speed = 15
gap_fill_speed = 30
infill_speed = 30
perimeter_speed = 30
retract_speed = 100
solid_infill_speed = 30
top_solid_infill_speed = 25
travel_speed = 125

Does anyone know the design limits of this printer, so some of the speeds could be increased? Not to the Max, but to something faster, so the prints come out quicker.

[Jetguy]

Here are my Repetier EEPROM dumps.
I increased acceleration to 800

OEM is as shipped, a good easy point to return to.
PID tune is both I adjusted slightly speed and also ran a PID tune on the hotend, thus extremely stable temps.

[Jetguy]

I saw it posted earlier but some files I'm using. Note, I was confused on nozzle size and thus left mine as a 0.4 nozzle. I also wanted some purge code so this leaves a little nozzle cleaning dot at maximum Y axis on the bed. Assures a perfect prime every time.

The bed leveling one is just this adjusted for a safe size.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50505

Eris.zip has my S3D profile.

Other notes:
Already used a Bondtech mini feeder upgrade and love it. Just go into EEPROM for the extruder and adjust steps/mm to 153.4 per experimentation (they say 140 but I found that was under). This is different than the 5:1 QR unit, don't get the 2 models confused.

[Mac The Knife]

I assumed the nozzle size is .5 based on the fact that's what they ship their other printers with, and the printer file for Matterslicer had .5 listed for the nozzle size.

[garfi3ld]

I assumed the nozzle size is .5 based on the fact that's what they ship their other printers with, and the printer file for Matterslicer had .5 listed for the nozzle size.

Thats what size they have it in the default settings

[JATMN]

Here are my Repetier EEPROM dumps.
I increased acceleration to 800

OEM is as shipped, a good easy point to return to.
PID tune is both I adjusted slightly speed and also ran a PID tune on the hotend, thus extremely stable temps.

Very cool to have you here Jetguy! Didn't know you got your hands on one of these.
Thanks for tuning the hotend, I did notice it was sorta bouncing around when I monitored it.
Increased acceleration to 800.. thats interesting adjustment (what was stock?), would this be a recommended update to the firmware going forward when I re-flash for future updates? (or have you already recommended it to them for the next build?)

[JATMN]

I saw it posted earlier but some files I'm using. Note, I was confused on nozzle size and thus left mine as a 0.4 nozzle. I also wanted some purge code so this leaves a little nozzle cleaning dot at maximum Y axis on the bed. Assures a perfect prime every time.

The bed leveling one is just this adjusted for a safe size.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50505

Eris.zip has my S3D profile.

Other notes:
Already used a Bondtech mini feeder upgrade and love it. Just go into EEPROM for the extruder and adjust steps/mm to 153.4 per experimentation (they say 140 but I found that was under). This is different than the 5:1 QR unit, don't get the 2 models confused.

Will be checking out your profile settings this evening for sure for S3D. Curious to see how yours differs from the one I am currently working on.
I like that you did the Prime dot, it seriously needs that. I think it would be nice to have a circular sweep (maybe a 1" long) on the outer limit as well similar to what S3D does with Ultimaker2 gcode. It primes in one spot. Runs across the bed then drops to the glass and does a nice hard 90 degree turn cleaning everything off the nozzle then runs to the start point. But I am not strong enough in gcode to write that manually.

Bondtech feeder upgrade on a Eris? Thats like 1/2 the price of the Eris man! (j/k!) very cool that someone is already modding these.. Let me know if you do any part cooling modifications. I have notice the Eris *IS* capable of simi highspeeds (45-55mm/s) but the lack of cooling power limits you back down to slower speeds than that due to stringing on most prints.

I was trying to figure out the nozzle size as well with just simple extrusion tests and I was getting odd numbers.. I found I been getting good results with S3D set to .43? (I think, I keep changing it) and 1 multiplier above that I was getting gaps in my shells. I will be posting a updated profile for S3D in the next day or so after I compare my notes to your settings.

Did you address any bed leveling issues? Mine levels with the front grounded out and the back almost floating, I have run the calibration script 20 or so times now with temps from 23C-40C and yet to get a solid level. I have actually about worn out my "BuildTak" mat already due to the bad leveling. I been playing with +z in S3D but this does not help with the axis of the level plane is crooked..

[Jetguy]

I'm still playing at this point and yes, the stock nozzle is 0.5mm so my S3D profile is not technically correct, although that was giving me nice looking prints, not "dimensionally accurate". My test cube was slightly oversize in XY (20.12mm).

FWIW, I ran into every problem I've seen in the group listed.
I upgraded the feeder because I had a Bondtech mini and it looked like a good fit. And it is.
You simply need to do a few things.
#1 reverse the extruder motor plug since this feeder is opposite.
#2 Drill 2 mounting holes. (This could be corrected by designing a proper Bondtech housing just for this printer)
#3 adjust E-steps in EEPROM for the new extruder.

However in doing all this, the Bowden tube kept pushing out of the pushfit now that the extruder feeder was "upgraded"
So I just had some more PTFE tubing fresh and replaced it.
I "thought" I seated it all the way in the hotend. As you know in this group, this is a huge mistake and makes a real mess of it.
The morning was spent cleaning and rebuilding the mess. Then I figured why not try a real coated Micro Swiss (previously AVN Swiss) MK8 style nozzle?
The threaded shank matched, the tip is longer but with autocalibration- no big deal.

Just keep in mind, I have a huge parts bin and relationships with these upgrade folks, so some of this is to see what works.
I'm not saying these are must do mods or there is anything wrong with Eris.
Sure, if I was too close to the bed I could make the stock EZ-struder grind filament.
Sure, you could totally stick with the stock nozzle and it's shorter- so maybe the fan ducts work better stock.

Also, this is all just so I can show the Mosaic Palette 4 color device attached to Eris.

[Jetguy]

Also, I did the Smart display mod by Mac_The_Knife http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1584617
That is probably my favorite mod at this point. Awesome work!!

[Jetguy]

FWIW, I too saw issues once or twice where auto calibration didn't get me exactly where I wanted to be.
I love my completely manual method on the Rostock max V2 and have recently been on a delta building kick and feel like I've gotten the "black art" of tuning.

I skimmed and saw notes a few ways on auto leveling.
I've tried cold and hot.
One fear is that the guide tube/wiring bundle is a bit stiff and can rock the system and makes me wonder if that's not some of the issue as well??

[JATMN]

FWIW, I too saw issues once or twice where auto calibration didn't get me exactly where I wanted to be.
I love my completely manual method on the Rostock max V2 and have recently been on a delta building kick and feel like I've gotten the "black art" of tuning.

I skimmed and saw notes a few ways on auto leveling.
I've tried cold and hot.
One fear is that the guide tube/wiring bundle is a bit stiff and can rock the system and makes me wonder if that's not some of the issue as well??

Good point on that.. but it didn't seem like it caused too much rocking when I watched it at slower speeds, If anything i saw more rocking when it was further to the front (odd? less pressure on the cable and tube that way)

Going to need to share the results of the deltas you been playing with.. I saw the super tall one you helped with a few weeks back

[JATMN]

Also, I did the Smart display mod by Mac_The_Knife http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1584617
That is probably my favorite mod at this point. Awesome work!!

Going to love the one I am working on, well if you have good eyes I guess. Unfortunately my parts are 2-3 weeks out (china) couldn't even find them in the states

[JATMN]

I'm still playing at this point and yes, the stock nozzle is 0.5mm so my S3D profile is not technically correct, although that was giving me nice looking prints, not "dimensionally accurate". My test cube was slightly oversize in XY (20.12mm).

FWIW, I ran into every problem I've seen in the group listed.
I upgraded the feeder because I had a Bondtech mini and it looked like a good fit. And it is.
You simply need to do a few things.
#1 reverse the extruder motor plug since this feeder is opposite.
#2 Drill 2 mounting holes. (This could be corrected by designing a proper Bondtech housing just for this printer)
#3 adjust E-steps in EEPROM for the new extruder.

However in doing all this, the Bowden tube kept pushing out of the pushfit now that the extruder feeder was "upgraded"
So I just had some more PTFE tubing fresh and replaced it.
I "thought" I seated it all the way in the hotend. As you know in this group, this is a huge mistake and makes a real mess of it.
The morning was spent cleaning and rebuilding the mess. Then I figured why not try a real coated Micro Swiss (previously AVN Swiss) MK8 style nozzle?
The threaded shank matched, the tip is longer but with autocalibration- no big deal.

Just keep in mind, I have a huge parts bin and relationships with these upgrade folks, so some of this is to see what works.
I'm not saying these are must do mods or there is anything wrong with Eris.
Sure, if I was too close to the bed I could make the stock EZ-struder grind filament.
Sure, you could totally stick with the stock nozzle and it's shorter- so maybe the fan ducts work better stock.

Also, this is all just so I can show the Mosaic Palette 4 color device attached to Eris.

I was having alot of issues running at .5 nozzle settings (my shells were seriously not even touching at all) but .4 was too small.
Curious to see the mods you do with the head.. the MK8 series is my fav style thus far.

For the bowden issues, I found it best to unscrew the heatsink from the top and push the tube thru and hold the clip in a unlocked position and screw it back on. Obviously if you dont keep the clip unlocked it will over compress the tube.

Your putting a Mosaic Pallette on a Eris!? I GOT TO SEE THIS!!

Also whats your serial number? Gives an idea where in the production batch you were, they have made some changes already since my build that I have heard.

[Jetguy]

0012
Picked it up at Bay Area just before leaving on Sunday.

Kinda wanting a spare plug and go hotend.
This way I can go modded or stock rapidly.

[JATMN]

Nice!
ok, yea very early. Mines #45 and had changes since yours, and there has been changes since mine.
Yea swappable hotend would be nice. But I honestly feel cooling should be a priority.. if you can get better cooling on this thing the printing possibilities on this printer will raise its cost to value ratio ALOT I feel.

[U.S. Water Rockets]

Does anyone out there have any interest in a semi-smart display mod for the Eris? It would work on any other printer as well. What I have in mind is a small board that connects where the smart display normally goes, and would use a small slot in the Eris housing to access the SD card. The display portion of the board would be handled by a small Bluetooth module that would link to a smartphone and provide the display functionality of the smart controller.

[Jetguy]

Bondtech mini. Guide tube is not connected as I was loading a white filament for Palette calibration from an alternate spool.

Note, this housing was for a different printer and I literally snipped off a lot of the printed bracket. Just emailed Bondtech and maybe they can make a far better design.

Also note, I like the lever and spring up, but that makes the stock spool to feeder guide tube out of alignment. Clipping the upper molded bracket of the feed tube away allows for perfectly acceptable usage as stock.

[JATMN]

Well that was unexpectedly dangerous..
Tried Jetguys FFF profile. I like the start script.. load it in my profile.. and was dumb and walked away after starting a print.. come back and there is 2 holes in my bed now.. apparently some reason it wants to go bellow the bed surface for the priming and start points when I put that start script in my profile.. thats kinda odd

[Jetguy]

There is nothing "trick" about it. Sorry you had a problem but your calibration was that far off that any print would drill your platform.
https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Fi ... ki/G-codes

Added the comments here
G21 ; Units for G0/G1 are mm
G90 ; Use absolute coordinates
M82 ; Set E codes absolute default
G28 ; home all axes
G0 Z25 ; fast travel to Z25 well above bed
G0 Y62 ; move back to maximum y for purge position
G0 Z0.2 ; lower to purge position 0.2mm above your defined calibrated 0
G92 E0 ; zero out extrusion length
G1 F200 E12 ; command slow prime of 12mm of which there is a 5mm retract at the end of last print so back to back prints only purge 7mm
G92 E0 ; zero out extrusion length
G1 X5 E0.5 ;move 5mm in X to wipe nozzle from purge dot while extruding a 0.5mm to keep nozzle primed
G92 E0 ;zero out extrusion length before print starts

[Jetguy]

Again, really sorry you had a problem and if you post your profile we could take a look. While everybody has their own ideas about gcode in general, i don't think my startup script was any more dangerous than others.

[JATMN]

Again, really sorry you had a problem and if you post your profile we could take a look. While everybody has their own ideas about gcode in general, i don't think my startup script was any more dangerous than others.

No worries not fond of the surface mat anyhow.. I think the printer just freaked out some reason.. re-ran calibration gcode script and it was fine *shrugs*

What I find odd is I can not get my level plane to level mine is always cocked.. front left is ground out.. front right is about perfect.. but back is always high enough that it almost prints in mid air. This is also what really confused me when it rammed itself into the bed because if anything the level should have caused it to be higher than expected not lower

But out of the box my printer has never properly leveled.. not sure where to look to fix it because it runs thru its leveling script effortless first try every time. Tried leveling with the nozzle everywhere from 25C-50C (honestly over 20 times I have run it) so not sure where to go from there..

** I did get your start code working in my profile though

[JATMN]

There is nothing "trick" about it. Sorry you had a problem but your calibration was that far off that any print would drill your platform.
https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Fi ... ki/G-codes

Added the comments here
G21 ; Units for G0/G1 are mm
G90 ; Use absolute coordinates
M82 ; Set E codes absolute default
G28 ; home all axes
G0 Z25 ; fast travel to Z25 well above bed
G0 Y62 ; move back to maximum y for purge position
G0 Z0.2 ; lower to purge position 0.2mm above your defined calibrated 0
G92 E0 ; zero out extrusion length
G1 F200 E12 ; command slow prime of 12mm of which there is a 5mm retract at the end of last print so back to back prints only purge 7mm
G92 E0 ; zero out extrusion length
G1 X5 E0.5 ;move 5mm in X to wipe nozzle from purge dot while extruding a 0.5mm to keep nozzle primed
G92 E0 ;zero out extrusion length before print starts

Perfect! Will add this version to mine this afternoon. helps for me and anyone else that wants to use this

[gkrangan]

Hello Experts,

I'm new to the SeeMeCNC forums. I have some decent experience with 3D printers. I have also built and setup a Kossel Mini myself.

I saw this new Eris at my local MicroCenter over the weekend, and picked one up.

Overall, the getting started to my first print was pretty good.

Few thoughts:
- Getting the filament through the EZ-Extruder was a bit of a challenge. I guess, it requires a bit of a knack, but I finally managed to get it through.
- The cable connector on the hot-end was loose, out of the box. I noticed that during my initial inspection, and re-seated it, but it was still not seated properly. Thus the calibration process would get stuck. Finally, I managed to get it seated properly. But beware, the plastic around the pins is not very strong, and front-facing side broke, but it's kinda still hanging in there. However, it is flimsy for sure. Once, the cable was seated properly, the calibration went fine.

- The biggest issue I'm having is with the bottom layer. Please check out the attached image. Are others getting the same results as well (better, or worse)? I was going through the default settings, and there does not see like there are a whole lot of parameters to adjust, other than the following:
bottom_solid_layers = 5

I also see a similar issue with the top-later, but it is slightly better than the bottom-layer.

top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.6
top_solid_infill_speed = 25
top_solid_layers = 5

- Finally, the retraction length appears to be currently set to 4.5. I guess that needs to be increased, because I see some stringing.
retract_before_travel = 2.5
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 4.5
retract_length_tool_change = 10
retract_lift = 1
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_when_changing_islands = 1
retract_speed = 100

Can anyone recommend what changes can be made to get a better bottom-layer finish? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Hello Folks,

Remember, I was complaining about weird bottom layer issues, earlier this week.

I'm happy to report that this issue is resolved, thanks to Mike @ the Columbus, OH MicroCenter.

He is quite experienced with various slicers, and has written one himself. I was discussing this issue with him earlier this morning, and he made a suggestion after reviewing the default Eris settings from SeeMeCNC.

There is a setting in the MatterSlicer config called first_layer_extrusion_width that is currently set to 180%, by default.

If this is reduced to 100% (or 0.6) instead, it fixes the weird first layer issues.

I tried the above, and it completely solved the first-layer issues I was having. Please see the attached picture for the results.

For others who may be seeing such issues with the first/bottom-layer, and are looking for better results, please try the simple slicer config change above and see if that helps.

Cheers.
G

[JATMN]

Think im in over my head

Trying to get the reprapdiscounts full graphic display going..

uiconfig.h

Code: Select all

/**
What display type do you use?
0 = No display
1 = LCD Display with 4 bit data bus
2 = LCD Display with 8 bit data bus (currently not implemented, fallback to 1)
3 = LCD Display with I2C connection, 4 bit mode
4 = Use the slower LiquiedCrystal library bundled with arduino.
    IMPORTANT: You need to uncomment the LiquidCrystal include in Repetier.pde for it to work.
               If you have Sanguino and want to use the library, you need to have Arduino 023 or older. (13.04.2012)
5 = U8G supported display
*/
#define UI_DISPLAY_TYPE 5

And I have the latest U8glib loaded in Arduino but only getting the display to light up no picture.

When I was looking up this issue I saw some references to change the feature_control from 13 to 11.. in configuration.h but that didnt change anything either.

I was able to figure it out with Marlin firmware on another printer but this first time I have played with Repetier firmware

Also tried importing the firmware from github to the repetier online firmware builder.. it didnt like that and ignored most the presets from the eris config.

[Mac The Knife]

Printing with PetG.
I haven't tried it on the provided build surface, I flipped the glass over and applied kapton tape to it. as long as its clean, it sticks. however, printing at 240C I believe is causing problems with the teflon liner getting soft, and creating a gap at the heat break causing the filament to jam. I prolly am using to high of a temperature for the PetG, and using to much retraction to minimize the stringing.

Sometime this weekend, I plan on removing the heatsink, and ventilating it to allow some airflow around the teflon liner inside.