ERIS Early adopter feedback

[Holy1]

What is the power supply output? Is power supply internal or an outside brick type? I know, wierd question.

[Milamber]

I have an external brick similar to my laptop. I'm not at home so I can't look at it to see the power output on it.

[Mac The Knife]

What is the power supply output? Is power supply internal or an outside brick type? I know, wierd question.

It's a 12 volt, 80 watt brick.

[Milamber]

OK guys, we're working on the documentation side of things here. If you go back and look at the first post in this topic, you'll find i just added a youtube video on how to setup and add the default files to mattercontrol for the eris. Take a look and comment back and let us know if you find any hiccups there.

Just watched this. Exactly what I needed to know.

As far as initial feedback from someone new to this: the printer was absolutely ready to print out of the box with this caveat. The plug had become loose from the hot end, probably during shipping. It wasn't completely off where I could tell by looking at it. The lights came on, the printer connected but no action. Perhaps a note in the documents indicating this should be checked with a diagram showing where it is would save future users the same experience. I spent several hours messing around with Matter Control before I stumbled upon it. But, aside from that, everything was pretty straight forward and I would have had it printing within a few minutes of taking it out of the box.

Nicely done.

[johnoly99]

Milamember,

Thanks for the feedback on that. We'll make sure to include checking the connection there on the quick start guide that goes in the box. Other than that, pics of prints????

[Milamber]

Milamember,

Thanks for the feedback on that. We'll make sure to include checking the connection there on the quick start guide that goes in the box. Other than that, pics of prints????

Unfortunately, I resolved my issue pretty late last night and had a very early morning appointment. The only thing I had a chance to print was the test cube more to come. I'm planning a multipart print today. I'll certainly post pics as I go.

[JATMN]

When replacing the nozzle,, Is it the same procedure as the E3d where after you install it that you preheat the hotend and tighten it again before printing?

This is actually a process that should be followed with *all* hotend/nozzle adjustments and changes.

[johnoly99]

Added a video to the first post on this topic showing how the liner in the hotend (the actual bowden tube) goes together.

[Milamber]

Hard at work.

[AlanZ]

The Eris arrived safe and sound.
Good packaging, though the hot end connector was not seated properly... this looks like it will be a recurring issue, and should be easily addressed in the documentation.
Setup was pretty straightforward.

The calibration script is great. Considering how much time I've spent calibrating the Max v2, this is a joy.

My first print (a calibration cube) worked out pretty well using the current "default" settings (.22mm layer height).

Lessons learned: Before running the load filament script, make sure the end of the filament is just past the extruder, NOT already at the hot end.

The script is very nice. It runs the filament through the Bowden tube very quickly until it gets near the hot end, then it proceeds slowly and extrudes beautifully.

If the end of the filament is already at the hot end, the EzStruder spins and grinds the filament that can't go anywhere until the hot end is ready. This causes a jam at the point where the filament enters the bowden tube on the extruder.

A simple fix... I clipped the deformed filament away, reheated the hot end, pulled out the filament that was already in the bowden tube, then reran the script... a perfect load.

So, when all else fails, follow the instructions. Well, if there were instructions <vbg>. Fortunately, I remembered what I saw in the video posted earlier today (but I was multi tasking at the time), but my Rostock Max v2 muscle memory made me preload the filament all the way to the hot end, and as soon as I started to run the load filament script, there was the OOOOPS moment... much like one gets immediately when locking one's keys in the card.

The new build surface is pretty stubborn when it comes to removing prints... perhaps because it is very new. I could not remove the calibration cube with the enclosed spatula, but I removed the bed and was able to get under a corner with a razor blade scraper... the it popped off nicely.

I am currently making my second print, a 3D benchy, but this time using "Standard" quality (.2mm layer height).
I had MatterControl export the gcode to OctoPi running on a Raspberry Pi2.

When it started printing it was too high off the build plate, so it was a bit of a mess. I stopped the print quickly, ran the calibration script again, and all is well. I don't know if this has anything to do with the newly created printer profile on the OctoPi, or just because I had removed the build plate to remove the calibration cube. In any event, things are going very well, and I will upload some video I shot, and perhaps a time lapse of the 3DBench y print.

[Milamber]

So the first piece is done. Printed at the defaults, about 5 hours to print. It was stringy and had some small pits in the side. At little bit of work with a hobby file cleaned it up quite a bit. I couldn't get it off the build plate with the removal tool so I finally just grabbed it and "snapped" it off. Also, this was the second attempt. First one simply stopped at an hour or so when the computer decided to stop talking to the printer.

[Mac The Knife]

When you put the hotend back together after removing a blob of PLA from inside the heatsink, apparently you have to have the fan shroud clipped to the heatsink as you thread it onto the heat break. Also, beware of pinching the fan leads between the heatsink and the circuit board.
\
Tools I've used: 1/4 inch nut driver for the nozzle, 1/2 inch open end wrench to hold the heaterblock, and a 9/16 inch wrench to turn the heatsink.

Amazingly, the cat is still alive.

[AlanZ]

Here's a video of my second print with the Eris... a 3DBenchy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTNRGJYOps8

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTNRGJYOps8[/youtube]

[Milamber]

I think the default temperature setting might be too low. It seemed fine with a small profile cylindrical object but something with a larger surface area doesn't want to adhere to the bed and the first layer doesn't completely melt together. Raised the temp to 220 and it seems to be doing MUCH better.

[JATMN]

Wow.. default profile needs some tuning I see..
was this filament that came with the printer by chance? or your own?

[AlanZ]

Mac,
My third print (a spiral vase) had a nozzle jam about 8 hours into a 9 hour print.

Later this morning, I will write about how I attempted to clear the jam, almost succeeded, and how I now have to disassemble the hot end to clear a jam that resulted at the end of a filament reload script.

Ah, the joys of 3D printing... and fussing with this stuff at 4 a.m.
I am going back to sleep!

[Milamber]

Wow.. default profile needs some tuning I see..
was this filament that came with the printer by chance? or your own?

Came with the printer. I've gotten happier results with a temp of 220. Still some very small areas of layer separation in spots. I'm not certain how to resolve that. I'm just kind of winging it.

I've also been adjusting retraction and speed. Currently at 120 speed and 2.5 on retraction. I think I've about eliminated the stringiness. Almost. I'm going to move it up to 3mm on my next print and see how it goes. I think the default was 1.

There are a few places on the frame where a small separation appears between the perimeter and the infill. The bottom of the grip and the perimeter look pretty good to ME but, I'm new at this.

The barrel brackets have some of the same issues around the bracket "feet". But only on one side. Those are a bit jagged because I haven't entirely removed the supports. Maybe Monday.

[JATMN]

Not seeing any layer separation.. at least in your pictures..
I do see some under extrusion which could be a matter of both print temp too low and print speed too fast tough..
I would see about slowing down your print speed

[AlanZ]

Another lesson learned: When inserting the Bowden tube into the hot end, it REALLY needs to go all the way in... And that is about 2 inches.

I struggled with this for some time today, thinking that it was fully seated when it was not. If it's not fully seated, it will extrude into the air very nicely, but will plug up within the first few seconds of printing.

Oh, and one thing I wondered about... With no spring clips holding the arms onto the ball ends, would they come loose? Answer: Boy those arms attach securely to the ball ends. It took some deliberate coercing to pop the arms off of the balls to remove the effector plate (I did this to remove a plug that was still attached to filament).

I will post a short video later today that shows how I removed this particular blockage (likely caused by the aforementioned incorrect Bowden tube seating on my part)

[AlanZ]

What do the LEDs on the effector plate indicate?
The blue seems to indicate power-on
The red on the Y axis side appears to light when temp is set
The red on the x axis side flickers while printing (is this just a data received light)?

The more we know about this nice little printer, the better.

[Milamber]

Not seeing any layer separation.. at least in your pictures..
I do see some under extrusion which could be a matter of both print temp too low and print speed too fast tough..
I would see about slowing down your print speed

Print speed is already pretty low. Would moving the temp up to 225-230 improve the under extrusion?

[Milamber]

Still some problems with stringing. This is at 3mm retraction, 125 speed.

[Polygonhell]

Given this is an ERIS thread, and assuming that's PLA, the hotter you get the worse the strings will be.
You really want to be as cold as you can practically print with PLA, on some brands I'll go down as low as 170C, and my thermistor is accurate.
I would verify the thermistor reading against a thermocouple if your having extrusion problems at 200C.
I'd drop the retraction speed way down (<20mm/s), too high and you can get skips in the prime part of the retraction, which can induce some amount of under extrusion.
If you're worried about the small gap between the edge and the infill, and tweaking doesn't fix it, I'd start by checking belt tension is OK then possibly increase the infill overlap in the slicer slightly.
It's probably worth doing a real extruder calibration, print a single wall test piece etc..

[JATMN]

Im with Polygonhell
If your pushing for 225C your printing too hot by now..
Your should be printing fine between 195-210C with most PLA's (not used SeeMeCNC's yet so I dont know how it runs)
But if your stringing badly raising temps is the last you want to do.

Lower your print speeds.. and lower your retraction speeds.. (<20mms would be too slow in my opinion..but no reason to go over 45mms either)

I still dont know your print speeds.. but if they are around 40-50mms you can still slow it down more.

Other wise you appear to have some feeding issues as your prints looked under extruded on the solid layers.

[Holy1]

I would have thought being they would have had all the bugs out. This has been on the drawing board for over a year and is supposed be truly RTP™ (ready-to-print) 3D printer. Seems not quite ready for the masses who know nothing of 3d printing. Joe Couchpotato will not know how to do a real extruder calibration or verify the thermistor as Polygonhell suggested.