Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
I thought I would start a thread for the prints we do and put them here. Any feed back would be awesome.
Here is last nights print of the vase that I decreased by about 30% and shortened. Planning to use it as a pencil holder.
You can see some banding when focused on the outside and inside. Overall was a good print.
Here is last nights print of the vase that I decreased by about 30% and shortened. Planning to use it as a pencil holder.
You can see some banding when focused on the outside and inside. Overall was a good print.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Started the T-Rex skull. I don't ghinknit is too bad. Since I deleted all my slicer profiles trying to figure out my "fill issues" I did get a few blebs!! Will adjust my speeds. I also find that when my iMac processor gets loaded down I get some pauses that causes Blebs.
One thing I have noticed over the last small prints is that with small prints and small points (i.e. The front teeth on this print). The ABS doesn't harden enough before the next layer is extruded.
Other than manually slowing down the print at that time what other options would others suggest? Is this a place for a layer fan? Is there a way to "G-code" slowing, a fan or other as necessary???
Thanks.
One thing I have noticed over the last small prints is that with small prints and small points (i.e. The front teeth on this print). The ABS doesn't harden enough before the next layer is extruded.
Other than manually slowing down the print at that time what other options would others suggest? Is this a place for a layer fan? Is there a way to "G-code" slowing, a fan or other as necessary???
Thanks.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
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Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
There ought to be a "minimum layer print time" setting somewhere in the slicer you're using.
You can also print a second throwaway object at the same time - a tall cylinder or something - to give your hotend something to do while your main print cools down.
You can also print a second throwaway object at the same time - a tall cylinder or something - to give your hotend something to do while your main print cools down.
nitewatchman wrote:it was much cleaner and easier than killing a chicken on top of the printer.
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Awesome. I will look for that setting. Love the throw away object. Makes since to jump over and allow it to cool.BenTheRighteous wrote:There ought to be a "minimum layer print time" setting somewhere in the slicer you're using.
You can also print a second throwaway object at the same time - a tall cylinder or something - to give your hotend something to do while your main print cools down.
Thanks.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Here is the T-Rex. Looks good. A few blebs where my iMac Processor causes a pause. I do need to figure out how to slow it down when the print are is small to slow the layer to harden before the next is placed. Or as noted above add a second throw away print to give time.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Small Window Planter Shelf
My daughter has been trying to grow Spruce trees from seeds only the have the
cat eat them!
Thus, she wanted make a small window ledge shelf to hold her small teracitta pots. She designed the image and exported the STL. Was a 16 hour print. Stuck awesome to the PEI and no separation. I did notice a print shift at one layer. Otherwise looks awesome.

Thus, she wanted make a small window ledge shelf to hold her small teracitta pots. She designed the image and exported the STL. Was a 16 hour print. Stuck awesome to the PEI and no separation. I did notice a print shift at one layer. Otherwise looks awesome.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Next a storage container for my Garmin watch and accessories.
And this is what happens when you don't have enough filament on the spool!! Bummer.
And this is what happens when you don't have enough filament on the spool!! Bummer.
Last edited by 3D-Print on Mon Mar 16, 2015 10:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Here is a heart printed a few days ago. It is totally cool. Using it as a paper weight at work.
Again I see a shift in the layers half way through the print. I've been thinking and I'm beginning to wonder if this is when I close my desk drawer? Maybe it is enought to "jar/move" the print??
As well, the very tops of each print you can tell we're not quite cool before placing the next layer. Will have to remember to print two things at once or have a square tube sized to the same height as my print object to prevent that from happening.

Again I see a shift in the layers half way through the print. I've been thinking and I'm beginning to wonder if this is when I close my desk drawer? Maybe it is enought to "jar/move" the print??
As well, the very tops of each print you can tell we're not quite cool before placing the next layer. Will have to remember to print two things at once or have a square tube sized to the same height as my print object to prevent that from happening.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
So I ran out if ABS. I had some T-Glase and decided to play a bit.
Here are some picture of my test prints after calibration of the bed. I removed all of the retracts and set my HotEnd at 225. PEI bed was at 90. Slowed the printing by 50%.
We printed a couple of chess pieces (which are difficult pieces). You can see that it looks ok but I think main issues were related to being too hot. After the first layers I decreased the bed to 80 degrees, and lowered the hot end to 220. This was much better but when I came back I could can see that the pieces were not cooling and thus the edges were terrible. The print was clearly hotter in the back side (top picture - as compared to the other pictures). I turned off my chamber Halogen lights (which helps me see - darn age and bifocals). It still was too hot, thus, since I do not have my layer fan set up, my daughter grabbed her "water spritz fan" that she takes to Husker games. We added this fan when the printer was building the upper ring. You can see the upper half is much better especially when you compare the front and back.
In short, I need to install the layer fan.
Now back to ABS. Printing a BDay gift for my 84 year old father.
Here are some picture of my test prints after calibration of the bed. I removed all of the retracts and set my HotEnd at 225. PEI bed was at 90. Slowed the printing by 50%.
We printed a couple of chess pieces (which are difficult pieces). You can see that it looks ok but I think main issues were related to being too hot. After the first layers I decreased the bed to 80 degrees, and lowered the hot end to 220. This was much better but when I came back I could can see that the pieces were not cooling and thus the edges were terrible. The print was clearly hotter in the back side (top picture - as compared to the other pictures). I turned off my chamber Halogen lights (which helps me see - darn age and bifocals). It still was too hot, thus, since I do not have my layer fan set up, my daughter grabbed her "water spritz fan" that she takes to Husker games. We added this fan when the printer was building the upper ring. You can see the upper half is much better especially when you compare the front and back.
In short, I need to install the layer fan.
Now back to ABS. Printing a BDay gift for my 84 year old father.

My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Printed the FrankenSwitch. Cool switch.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Have now printed 6 of these for various Friends and family.3D-Print wrote:Printed the FrankenSwitch. Cool switch.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Garmin Watch Storage Box
I finally got back to printing my Garman storage box. Overall I'm quite happy with how it turned out. You can see once again I ran short on black filament. I pause the print part way through and exchanged out for a blue filament. Multicolor..... Doesn't look too bad!
I used too dense of support material in the square cavity (a future drawer) and it was a real pain in the butt to remove it. You can see from the top view the I scratched up the face of the box and damaged/stretched the floor of one of the "bins" (white marks) with a screwdriver trying to remove the support material.
Next time I think I would do a couple different things. First would be to make the walls thinner since they don't need to be 5 mm and would same filament and shorten the print time. As well, I would not build as much support material in the drawer cavity. I've never used PLA, and maybe with a layer fan I wouldnt need to have support material at all.
Dan
I used too dense of support material in the square cavity (a future drawer) and it was a real pain in the butt to remove it. You can see from the top view the I scratched up the face of the box and damaged/stretched the floor of one of the "bins" (white marks) with a screwdriver trying to remove the support material.
Next time I think I would do a couple different things. First would be to make the walls thinner since they don't need to be 5 mm and would same filament and shorten the print time. As well, I would not build as much support material in the drawer cavity. I've never used PLA, and maybe with a layer fan I wouldnt need to have support material at all.
Dan
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
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Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Great looking storage box!
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Just printed the Winterfell model. I need to figure out how to improve the smoothness of the final layers.
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- Eaglezsoar
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Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
That skull is one of the best I have seen anywhere! Outstanding job!
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Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
thanks im working on the painting, heres the link if any of you guys want try making one
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:324665
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:324665
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Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
THAT.IS.AWESEOM! How heavy is the mask in total? I would think you did a very low % infill?
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Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
im not sure how heavy it is, i use 10% infil on the larger parts and 17% infill on the smaller ones like the teeth sectionsdrunkenmugsy wrote:THAT.IS.AWESEOM! How heavy is the mask in total? I would think you did a very low % infill?
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
I am very curious about your settings for your printer. I have been having trouble with un-even horizontal layers since I got my printer running. I can make really nice spiral mode prints but when I go to regular mode I get all kinds of mis-aligned or over hanging layers. Not sure what to try at this point.
Rostock Max V2 - Unnamed as of yet...
Robo 3D R1
One of the two printers can be found streaming at the link below just about every day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wky8RuNW9TY
Robo 3D R1
One of the two printers can be found streaming at the link below just about every day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wky8RuNW9TY
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Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
How much filament did you use up on it? That'd give a good indication of how heavy it would be!predawnsky wrote:im not sure how heavy it is, i use 10% infil on the larger parts and 17% infill on the smaller ones like the teeth sectionsdrunkenmugsy wrote:THAT.IS.AWESEOM! How heavy is the mask in total? I would think you did a very low % infill?
nitewatchman wrote:it was much cleaner and easier than killing a chicken on top of the printer.
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Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
didnt think about that i used 2.5 spoolsBenTheRighteous wrote:How much filament did you use up on it? That'd give a good indication of how heavy it would be!predawnsky wrote:im not sure how heavy it is, i use 10% infil on the larger parts and 17% infill on the smaller ones like the teeth sectionsdrunkenmugsy wrote:THAT.IS.AWESEOM! How heavy is the mask in total? I would think you did a very low % infill?
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Printing a base and holder for my countertop one gallon keg I have for my home brew beers. I noticed an interesting pattern in the first layer. I'm slightly over extruding to make sure we have good first layer adhesion. I don't think it's going to be any consequence, was just interesting. Thoughts anyone?
SeeMeCNC ABS at 228 degree C
Bed is at 98 degrees C
Chamber is 55.6 degrees C
First layer is 0.2 mm
Edit: Just added the base STL file.
Addendum. First layer is almost done and the pattern continues albeit not mirrored or symmetrical.
SeeMeCNC ABS at 228 degree C
Bed is at 98 degrees C
Chamber is 55.6 degrees C
First layer is 0.2 mm
Edit: Just added the base STL file.
Addendum. First layer is almost done and the pattern continues albeit not mirrored or symmetrical.
- Attachments
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- Keg Base.stl
- (5.96 MiB) Downloaded 364 times
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
The second layer looks great. As well...... now 6/28 hours.
My 3D-Printing learning curve is asymptotic to a Delta's X, Y and Z-axes
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Re: Bad Ass Printer (BAP): Rostock V2 - My Prints.
Please keep posting your pictures, they are great!