Hey from Edmonton

[naarok]

Hi all. Just started building the Max V2.

I received my kit a month or so ago, but was waiting till today to start (first day of me being unemployed, but don't worry, I have a new job lined up for January) .

I was excited to see a new edition of the manual, but quickly noticed that my power supply is the old ATX as opposed to the new supply. I'm guessing I should base my build on the 3rd edition of the build guide? Or can I go back and forth. It seemed like the 4th edition of the guide was a bit clearer. Wondering if I can use 4th ed., but refer back to 3rd ed. for the power supply? Any other things I'd need to watch out for if I did that?

Thanks all.

[Eaglezsoar]

You can go back and forth. You need to be careful to use the parts of the manual that pertains to the parts that you were shipped, should not be too hard to accomplish.
You must have ordered the kit just before they switched to the updated V2 that replaced the power supply. Yours should work fine the way it is and thank you for
purchasing the Worlds best Delta printer kit, the Rostock Max 2.
Happy building!

[naarok]

So after one day, I've got the power supply in. I've found that the differences between my October kit and what is shipping now are enough that using the 4th edition assembly guide is just a little confusing. I've taken to reading both 3rd and 4th editions to be clear on steps, but using the 3rd edition guide as the primary. (Suppose that makes sense given that my kit is intended for the 3rd edition). Must say that I'm wishing I'd waited just a couple weeks on ordering so I could have the latest and greatest.

Now a question. I'm going to be installing the astrosyn nema-17 dampers. I'm feeling I should hold off on using locking compound on the pulley attached to the motor shaft until I've got the motors mounted. I suspect I'll need to adjust how far the pulley goes on to the shaft. Any insight into this?

Thanks

[Windshadow]

I just did that step my kit (has the bearings inside the shell rather than the older larger ones where the belt rode on the outside of the bearing.) and yes i waited to use the blue locktite
I have the cork ones from trick laser not the fancy ones you have but the principal is the same
i used an old trick of a straight edge ( one of the narrow long oval pieces of laser cut scrap worked perfectly)to align the cog on the stepper with the idlers i would say the bearing needs to be about 2mm further out from flush with the end of the shaft.

[naarok]

Yay!

First prints.

Did the "Calibration - Box" that was automatically queued in MatterControl at install time and the PEEK and layer fan shrouds. Mostly pretty good. Did have some filament seepage issues on the PEEK shroud. With the PEEK shroud installed, the layer shroud looks real good (I'm hoping that is expected and not that something just changed. I hate when that happens).

I did struggle a bit with making the towers 90 degrees. When I did the Z tower last, I just couldn't get it to 90. Then I tried doing it first. Worked fine, but as soon as I did the Y tower, it pulled the Z tower out of alignment. In the end, I went forward with the build and didn't have too much trouble with calibration (once all is built, it looks like the Z tower is at 89.5 degrees). Although I did end up having to unscrew the Z end-stop so far that it was loose. Didn't like that and then realized that tightening the X and Y end stops was "equivalent" to loosening the Z stop. After that, all was good.

[Eaglezsoar]

Yay!

First prints.

Did the "Calibration - Box" that was automatically queued in MatterControl at install time and the PEEK and layer fan shrouds. Mostly pretty good. Did have some filament seepage issues on the PEEK shroud. With the PEEK shroud installed, the layer shroud looks real good (I'm hoping that is expected and not that something just changed. I hate when that happens).

I did struggle a bit with making the towers 90 degrees. When I did the Z tower last, I just couldn't get it to 90. Then I tried doing it first. Worked fine, but as soon as I did the Y tower, it pulled the Z tower out of alignment. In the end, I went forward with the build and didn't have too much trouble with calibration (once all is built, it looks like the Z tower is at 89.5 degrees). Although I did end up having to unscrew the Z end-stop so far that it was loose. Didn't like that and then realized that tightening the X and Y end stops was "equivalent" to loosening the Z stop. After that, all was good.

Hey, glad to hear of your successes!
Isn't it great to build one of these by your own hands and see it work.
They are amazing to watch.
Happy printing!