Stepper motors wont work

[kevo3]

I will do this at the first chance i get, my schedules quickly filling up, so i may get a minimal amount of time to do so. Should i get another crimp, or can i directly wire it to the hot end wires?

[kevo3]

In the process of trying to fix the thermisistor issue, i think i may have either fried the hot end, or badly messed up the wire crimp. The black wire came out of its crimp and refused to go back in due to the crimp still being halfway closed, After reinserting it, i tested the hot end, bu the temp stayed right at 27-30. So, did i fry my hot end? or is this the thermisistor acting up? or simply a case of bad wiring? also, i need a way to get that crimp off without damaging the heating element wires, as they've already become slightly weakened. Also, no fuses yet. Still in Tennessee...

I hope by now that you have gotten the crimp off and if not I would use long nose pliers to hold it and use something to cut the crimp in half length wise like a dremel tools or sharp pair of wire nippers.
Once you get the crimp off you can do the hotend again (rewire it) at the hotend. Inspect the thermistor and make sure that it did not come out of it's hole. If you need to troubleshoot the thermistor you should
turn off all power and disconnect the thermistor. Using an ohmmeter you should read approximately 100K ohms across the thermistor at room temperature.
Please let us know that you have it working again.

i will do this as soon as i can, but my schedule is becoming quite clutterd. Will i need to redo the crimp? or can i directly wire the heating peices to the wire?

[Eaglezsoar]

In the process of trying to fix the thermisistor issue, i think i may have either fried the hot end, or badly messed up the wire crimp. The black wire came out of its crimp and refused to go back in due to the crimp still being halfway closed, After reinserting it, i tested the hot end, bu the temp stayed right at 27-30. So, did i fry my hot end? or is this the thermisistor acting up? or simply a case of bad wiring? also, i need a way to get that crimp off without damaging the heating element wires, as they've already become slightly weakened. Also, no fuses yet. Still in Tennessee...

I hope by now that you have gotten the crimp off and if not I would use long nose pliers to hold it and use something to cut the crimp in half length wise like a dremel tools or sharp pair of wire nippers.
Once you get the crimp off you can do the hotend again (rewire it) at the hotend. Inspect the thermistor and make sure that it did not come out of it's hole. If you need to troubleshoot the thermistor you should
turn off all power and disconnect the thermistor. Using an ohmmeter you should read approximately 100K ohms across the thermistor at room temperature.
Please let us know that you have it working again.

i will do this as soon as i can, but my schedule is becoming quite clutterd. Will i need to redo the crimp? or can i directly wire the heating peices to the wire?

To do this right you should use another crimp. If you have a problem finding a new crimp go to HomeDepot or Lowe's and look in the electrical section for the connectors, a small butt connector should work .
Best to you.

[nitewatchman]

If you have trouble finding a non-insulated crimp, get a red insulated one and cut the insulation off.

[kevo3]

First of all, i cannot thank you guys enough for helping me out, i know thats the whole reason the forums exist, but your help has been phenominal. Also, while the little 5 volt fuses are still on order,i managed to get my hands on some ATC-10 and ATC-15 fuses. The 15s for the alredy in place 15 on the rambo, should i need extras and the 10 for soldering to the f2 fuse for temporary use. Before i get my soldering gun out and start on this frankenstien project of a fuse, i wanted to ask if you had tips or pictures on how to properly do it. I know its not rocket science, but at this point, simply winging it with things has gotten me in more trouble than its worth with this project , so you can understand my cautiousness.

[kevo3]

I went ahead and soldered it,but I'd rather confirmation I did it right before I pop it in the Rambo.Used the ATC-10 fuse with lead free solder and some speaker wire.I know it looks sloppy, but they're nice and secure, believe me, im not making that mistake again.

[Eaglezsoar]

That should work on a temporary basis but you should get the proper fuse as soon as possible.
The Rambo will accept 5 or 10 amp fuses, in my case I bought about 20 of the 10 amp version so that I will have spares.
Best luck to you.

[kevo3]

That should work on a temporary basis but you should get the proper fuse as soon as possible.
The Rambo will accept 5 or 10 amp fuses, in my case I bought about 20 of the 10 amp version so that I will have spares.
Best luck to you.

ANNNNNDDDDD WE HAVE MOVEMENT! The carriages are moving along just fine, but im not sure what happend when it came to homing it. They all went up, and hit the endstops, but they kept on going, making a pretty cringe worthy popping sound. Did m119 and all are showing up properly, right end stop to tower, the carriages just wanna keep on going. Looking in advanced settings on the lcd, it says the max endstops are off, not sure what that means for them, but they certaintly arent doing something right.

[Eaglezsoar]

Ensure the endstop wires are plugged into the proper place on the Rambo.
Here is a picture. They should be connected to the Max Pins.

[teoman]

Wrap your solder joints with kapton tape or tape.

[kevo3]

Wrap your solder joints with kapton tape or tape.

Done and done. Sadly I will be heading out of town for the holidays, so I must bid farewell to my Rostock. If there's any advice you all feel is us file for me to have, please do share as I will look at everything when I get back, but I cannot test anything until then.Thank you al SOO very much for your help, it has been absolutely amazing, and I could not have gotten this far with out you

[Eaglezsoar]

Wrap your solder joints with kapton tape or tape.

Done and done. Sadly I will be heading out of town for the holidays, so I must bid farewell to my Rostock. If there's any advice you all feel is us file for me to have, please do share as I will look at everything when I get back, but I cannot test anything until then.Thank you al SOO very much for your help, it has been absolutely amazing, and I could not have gotten this far with out you

It may be wise to download the latest manual for the Max V2 and put it on a laptop or similar in case you get a chance to read it while you are gone.
Go to SeemeCNC.com - downloads for the latest manual.

[kevo3]

Alright, im back, and with a few new problems. Fuses arrived and i put a new one in. and the steppers are working. Except they still wont home, and when i press anything to do with Y, all of the carriages go up. Also, the LCD screen will no longer display anything besides two bars.

[kevo3]

Alright, im back, and with a few new problems. Fuses arrived and i put a new one in. and the steppers are working. Except they still wont home, and when i press anything to do with Y, all of the carriages go up. Also, the LCD screen will no longer display anything besides two bars.

ok, scratch that.I went back and reconnected the lcd, and did eeprom clear. Lcd is now working. also the steppers are responding better but are reversed for some reason, so im gonna go back and fix the code for them. the carriages still wont home, but ill retest them once i fix the code.

[kevo3]

viola! went back and fixed that, and not only is it now going in the proper direction, it homed without issue!Only thing left is the thermisistor need to be checked, and the hot end needs to be re crimped.

EDIT; everything is now working except for the extruder motor. When i press to extrude, it simply clicks.