Rostock Maxx in a new home

[Proto]

Try Aquanet Hair spray in the purple can (unscented) and spray a light coat and raise the bed temperature to 90 or 100C for ABS.
Spray the Aquanet on the glass, no tape.
It has been documented a hundred times in these forums.

Sorry about that, I was just trying to document my journey and the bumps in the road. I have heard of using hairspray on the bed, but not any specific Brands/Products before.

I'm a firm believer in searching the forum to answer my questions before starting a new thread.

[lightninjay]

Lol, well if adhesion issues are your problem, try some Aussie Mega hair spray and then throw the Manual-recommended Purple glue stick over the dried hair spray and I guarantee your parts won't lift. Put the plate in the freezer and the parts will pop right off with no problems.

[Proto]

It's been a while since I posted anything here, so here is an update.

For the most part I'm having a great time with the Maxx. Most Small parts print up with no problems (the Biggest is 1" x 3" x 4" tall). But I have been having a couple of issues that are confusing me.

The first is print stoppages. The first time it happened was trying to print out http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:60750 It stopped about 1/2 way through. I thought it was a USB communication fault, so I downloaded the g-code to a flash card and tried again. This time I got the same exact fault, in the same place. So thinking it was a corrupt file (some how) I put that job on the back burner. This week I got the same problem again, both with USB & the Flash Card, but this time it was printing up about 4 small parts at the same time. I was able to print those parts separately, just not together.

The other problem I have is still bed adhesion, but mostly with larger parts. The First part was 3.5" dia and shaped like a mushroom (So I had to add supports). The first time I had just Aquanet Pink/Extra Super Hold.
(I know, I know... you said Aquanet Purple. The store I was at only had the pink and I didn't have time to shop around)
The supports broke free about a 1/3 in. Then I tried The Elmer's Disappearing Purple glue stick, the support broke free before the 3rd level was printed. Then I tried The Glue Stick with Aquanet on top, The supports broke free on the second level. Then I tried a part that was 4.5" dia that was flat to the printer bed, it partially broke free after printing about 1/4" (of a 5/8" tall part). Did I mention That I had the same issue with a 6" x 6" x 1/4" part...

Material - ABS
Extruder Temp - 230°c
Bed Temp - 100°c

Right now I have 2 ideas. Tomorrow, go buy some Kapton Tape and print onto that. Or try out printing in PLA on these larger parts.

Edit - It's late, on New Years Eve, I'll poke around the forum more tomorrow. I'm just frustrated, I was hoping to do a long run print job overnight.

[lightninjay]

Lol, I think I'm the only person that uses this particular hair spray. AUSSIE

Seriously, this with the purple glue stick has never failed me. It literally broke my borosilicate plate last night when I was trying to pry a big finished part off.

Far better strategy was to put entire glass plate into the freezer and wait for the part to release. It works every time as well, I was just an impatient idiot trying to pry a part off of a 3mm glass disc with force.

[Proto]

Thanks Lightinjay I will try it.

Before I went to bed I also saw a method of using dissolved gluesticks, and painting this stuff with a brush.

Right now it's 4:21am... Bed going back to/too/tutu... hopefully weird dreams gone now... Nighty ngiht

[lightninjay]

Also, just to be clear, I spray a layer of hair spray, let it dry completely (you basically won't even know it was sprayed on), THEN put glue stick down on that.

[Proto]

Alrighty, so far so good. I'm an hour and a half into a 5-1/2 hour print. And so far no break aways.

Lightinay, I'm using your adhesion method.

But sitting next to the printer as it works, I see why I'm having trouble. It seem like the Extruder head is not lifting before some rapid moves. As a result I hear the hotend run across the top of the part, hitting every raised part as it goes. With moderate to poor adhesion of part to bed, that motion would probably drag on the part and break any adhesion.

Is this just with MatterControl? I would want the hotend to lift BEFORE any rapid moves. I have the Z-Lift set to 2mm, and the "Only Retract When Crossing Perimeters" turned off. The problem is there is no retract when printing supports.

I'm half tempted to try either Cura or Craftware.

[lightninjay]

It can be a number of things, but I agree with you that the dragging can often cause issues.

Cura would be my first recommendation, as it's been a stable go to for me as of late if Craftware acts up on me and the resulting print doesn't come out quite as I like it.

I tried matterslice within mattercontrol for a while, but ultimately the settings and quality (minus the triangular infill) were pretty comparable to Cura and its slicer.

Craftware provides many of the obscure settings that other slicers don't offer, or if they do they are not freeware, like custom rafts, editable supports, and some other fun custimizables.

[Proto]

Interesting...

I always assumed (you can imply anything there ) that glass would be flat for the most part. I finally decided to do a precision level on my Maxx. I obviously touched off at bed center, and then using a touch off tool, leveled the 3 towers.

[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Max ... 52037a.jpg[/img]

The tool is 2" (50.8mm) in height. When I was Done
X Tower - 50.8mm
Y Tower - 50.9mm
Z Tower - 50.8mm
Bed Center - 50.1mm

I checked these numbers multiple times (OK, twice each) and they stay consistent.
So I guess I'm going to set my Z height at Bed Center (the highest point) and live with the fact that the bed is not flat.

A couple of points that I find annoying. In firmware v.91 to find out the Z Height, I had to go 3 menus deep and it would time out in 30 sec. Why isn't the Z location on the main screen anymore?

[JFettig]

all you have to do is calibrate your horizontal radius.

[Proto]

all you have to do is calibrate your horizontal radius.

Thankee Thankee.

Silly me thought that because I bought this thing used, that certain settings would not change.

Now I have my Bed flat within .1mm.