Also new from Canada

[joeanesthesia]

Hello all,

I have just finished my build for the Rostock Max V2. I tried to calibrate it last night, but could not get it right. I have read a bunch of the posts today, so I will try to calibrate it again tonight. Wish me luck.

Is anyone else using the mac version of Repetier Host ?

J

[teoman]

Good luck. Don't worry. You will get there in the end.

I am currently using mattercontrol on the mac. But i was using repetier as the manual suggested.

[Tinyhead]

Welcome! Where in Canada are you frim?

What calibration issues were you having?

[joeanesthesia]

I am from Winnipeg, home of the jets....and nothing else, unless you like snow taxes and mosquitoes.

I think I have solved the calibration problem, as we'll as the extruder motor problem.

Finally I started to print the fan shroud. The first time it was not recognizable (I think the hot end temp was to low (200C). i bumped it up to 220, and i have better results, but alas it is not impressive. Very stringy

So, where do I go from here ? Any help would be appreciated. My wife is already pissed with me for buying this thing so I better get some better results

How do I post a picture to this forum ?


I must say though that watching the printer do its thing is impressive.




Rostock Max Ver.2
ABS 1.75mm filament
Hot end temp 220 c
bed temp 60 c

[Tinyhead]

If you want to upload a picture, just below the text entry space, there are a couple tabs. One says 'Options', the other 'Upload attachment'. It's in the Upload areas.

As for the stringing, is it just on the overhang areas? Or is it all over the place?

You're also forgetting the 700 billion construction pylons that Winnipeg has. I'm from the Winnipeg area myself. Work in Winnipeg, but live down in Niverville. If you have any problems or wanted to get together sometime, let me know! It would be wicked to know a fellow Rostock owner first hand.

[joeanesthesia]

1st print with Rostock Max V2. Very stringy ???

1st print.tiff (1.05 MiB) Viewed 9826 times

1st print with Rostock Max V2. Very stringy ???

1st print.tiff (1.05 MiB) Viewed 9826 times

1st print with Rostock Max V2. Very stringy ???

1st print.tiff (1.05 MiB) Viewed 9826 times

Oh Sweet !

That would be great.

Stringy everywhere. It has the correct form though.

Here is the pic.

[joeanesthesia]

oops, i somehow posted the pic several times

[Tinyhead]

Ouch. That's pretty rough. It looks like it's too hot or over extruding or something. If it's ABS, the temperature should be around the operating range. I run mine at 235-240C, but I don't know how long you'd want to run that temperature without a PEEK fan... Don't want to melt your hot end right off the bat. Happen to have any PLA you could try this print out with?

What are your settings for layer height, infill, retractions, speed, etc.?

[joeanesthesia]

Interesting.

im not at home right now so i can't check those values, but i only ran it at 220. I bumped that up from the slicer that only wanted it to run at 200. I did attach a peek fan though, so i think i will bump up the temp and try it again.

thx

j

[joeanesthesia]

So here is the update.

I tried to change the temp to 230, then 235 with the same result. I started looking at the default settings in Repetier and found that the filament was set to 3mm. When i changed it to 1.75, it would not save. Frustration continues.

But, I took the lead from you and downloaded matter control. I started printing the "calibration box", and I got a really good result (until the power save on the mac turned off the computer). I am quite happy with the result.

print 2.tiff (599.74 KiB) Viewed 9797 times

Not a great photo, but it does show the nice fine lines and very smooth surface. The blob on the bottom was due to the hotend becoming stationary when the computer turned off.

j

[Tinyhead]

Right on. Glad you got things figured out. At least it was a simple solution.

Personally I use Cura as my slicer and just copy the file to the SD card. That way I don't need to keep my PC running too. I only use Repetier (haven't really dove into MatterControl yet) for calibration and EEPROM purposes.

[joeanesthesia]

Hey Tinyhead,

How ya doing ?

I did some more printing. I seem to get pretty good results with small parts, but the big parts are all curling at the ends. Actually curling a lot.

What are you using for your heated bed temp for ABS ? What if anything do you use for sticking things to the glass ? Do you have the same problems ?

I have been using a temp of 70C, and a glue stick (elmers purple stuff). I also tried to wrap clear plastic around the whole printer to try and stabilize the temperature, but it did not do much. I also notice that the curling is worse on one side (left) in most cases.


I guess I should try using the SD card as well, so I can have my computer back.

What things are you building with your printer ? Do you tinker with electronics or microprocessors ?

[bot]

Is that left side exposed to more airflow than the other? The curling is mostly caused by cooling. ABS prints would ideally remain a constant temperature throughout the entire part, then slowly be brought down to room temperature as one piece.

[Tinyhead]

As bot mentioned, maybe you have a bit more of a draft on that particular side of the build plate, or it's possible that your filament doesn't press down as much on that side, so you're not quite getting that full sticking of the filament. I would also try bumping the bed temperature up a bit if you can. I try to go with 80 when I use ABS. I've read that others use 90.

I was never able to get anything to stick to my glass. I never tried hairspray though. With the Elmer's glue, things would just pop off. Didn't matter if it was ABS or PLA. It was like the glue couldn't stick to the glass. My build plate that I use now is actually something called G10 (polyethermide with 10% fibreglass reinforcement). I use the Elmer's glue on that and I don't have any issues... at least not with sticking to the bed. The print still tries to curl, but the bed is usually so stuck that I end up with layer splitting. That's why I use PLA and only delve into ABS when something particularly needs it.

I like messing around with the microcontrollers like the Arduino and even the Pi, but unfortunately my programming skills are nil, so it's pretty tough for me. I haven't got a whole lot done with either.

As far as print jobs go, I print a bit of everything. Some of my own things for around the house, some toys for my daughter, some models or vases to put up on a shelf... I'm not picky!

What about you? What have you got going on?

[joeanesthesia]

Thanks Bot and Tinyhead,

I thought it might be due to ambient temperature fluctuation so I covered the entire print area with plastic sheets to attempt to stabilize the print area temp and drafts, but I get the same result. I get very good adhesion on the right side, so maybe the print bed is not level, although I did the levelling procedure and it looks like the print head is at the same height all around.

I am working on building the InMoov robot. That was the reason for buying the 3DP. It is pretty cool. You can check it out on their website. I think it is best to print that in ABS due to the heat from the servos and the durability of parts required (although I have never seen a product printed in PLA).

I used to program microprocessors 30 years ago. Over the last year I have started to get back into cuz my son seems interested. If you need any help with the programming let me know, I MIGHT be able to help.

I guess tonight I will bump up the heat a bit more. I also heard that printing a wall or brim might help. I should also recheck the to see how level the left side is ?

J

[Tinyhead]

I'll have to check out that bot. If it's heat related, then yes, stick to ABS. PLA is very durable though. More rigid than ABS. It's what you'd want to print gears out of, in my opinion.

I would definitely try a brim. Might make a world of difference.