Hans makes a build thread for a Rostock Max V2

[geneb]

Check your wiring connections, just to make sure you don't have something coming loose. Also, if you've got Kysan motors in your v2, you need to bump the drive current for the stepper motors to nearly twice what's listed for the current motors.

g.

[Hans]

Drive motors are doing fine, I'm starting to think it's a nozzle issue more than anything else at this point, switching to the spare 0.8mm is working right now at normal temps.

The threads on my 0.4mm are very badly tarnished and look to have some burnt on carbon, so possibly it's not transferring heat properly from the heater block to the nozzle itself. Definitely not clogged, I did clean it out completely and that didn't improve on my current issues. While the 0.8mm is printing, I have a few things that MUST get done, then I'll get back to further diagnosis.

Starting to get really jealous of the new firmware features, I wonder if I can put an accelerometer on here while keeping the E3D hot end.

[geneb]

Yep. In fact, there's a printable mount for it on Repables.com, or you can get one of the 713 Maker adapter kits. Either way, it's pretty easy to use the accellerometer probe with an E3D.

g.

[Hans]

Guess my search talent is failing me today, can't find that mount on repables.

The 713 stuff sure looks nice though.

[barry99705]

Not on repables, but this is the one I'm using.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2098268

[Hans]

Ahh, now I see it, the accellerometer board mounts on the top of the hot-end. I thought it mounted down near the nozzle.

Is it compatible with the Rambo board in the V2? Not seeing much from folks who have done the conversion in the older machines.

[Xenocrates]

A rambo's a rambo. Should plug in exactly the same, although you may want to use shielded wire for this, as while I2C is only used to setup the accelerometer from my understanding, I2C is also not particularly noise resistant, having been designed for inter-Intergrated circuit interconnects as the name implies, and thus mostly for use on the same board or a reasonably adjacent daughterboard. In general though, all signals should be in shielded cables for best practices (and not doing so is mostly a cost optimization, as most signals can tolerate ambient noise)

[barry99705]

There's an upgrade guide on seeme's site for the board. I'm running it with a V6 hot end.

[Hans]

Well, I'm stumped. I have 4 rolls of ABS, none of them have given me issues before, but I just still keep getting clogging with a .4mm nozzle, which was never a problem till a couple months ago. New nozzle, new themistor, plenty of heat, .8mm is just fine.

Odd.

[geneb]

Keep in mind that the smaller the nozzle, the slower the print speed has to be.

g.

[Hans]

Keep in mind that the smaller the nozzle, the slower the print speed has to be.

g.

That's the confusing part, I've been printing for 3-4 years with a 0.4mm nozzle, and didn't change my settings. It just suddenly started clogging up all the time.

[Hans]

I'm starting to think the issue may be in the extruder. It just slips and skips so easily right now, and once that happens it starts grinding into the filament and that's all she wrote.

Going to pull it apart tomorrow and take a closer look.

[rootboy]

I had the same extruder issues (as apparently do many others), so I replaced my extruder with a prusa style extruder fitted to a NEMA 23 motor. Stalling is a thing of the past...

The power supply died after less than 100 hours of printing, so I strapped my Astron RS35M onto my V2. Life is great at 13.8 (volts). Astron's are a bit pricey for 3D printing, but a Pyramid PSV-300 is only $70. And if a ham operator will use it, then it will do just fine on a printer.

The original hot end choked for the last fricking time quite a while ago, so I replaced it with a Prometheus. I have managed to clog it once, and one of the lads at work torched it for me using his brazing torch. No problems since then.

My arms kept falling off, so I replaced them with home-built carbon fiber arms. They are as stiff as can be now. And as an added benefit, they no longer fall off...

And today I found one of my cooling fans was DOA (since day one) when I switched to PLA for the first time.

Other than that, my Rostock is completely stock.

[Hans]

I still can't sort this problem out. Seems like I have to keep constantly raising my temperature setting to get ABS to even start to extrude. And only works with larger nozzles now, 0.4 is completely out of the question, regularly forced to use a 0.8 now. Also having to slow down speeds well below what used to be normal.

I'm currently running a print set at 275c!!!!!! Anything lower than 260-265 and just no extrusion.

I seriously doubt it's a failing heating element, because I'm getting indicated temps that match what I set it for. Most of the lower side of the hot end has been replaced at this point. Including the heater block, thermistor, nozzle, heat break, etc....

Completely at my wits end what else to look at.

[Xenocrates]

It sounds like you might be getting progressive damage to the thermistor wiring (because that would make the indicated and set temperature change while not messing with the actual temperature). How much of the wiring to the hotend have you had to change in attempting to fix the issue, and have you used a thermocouple/multimeter to confirm that the Rambo is getting good information from the thermistor?
I'm also assuming that you've tried more than one roll of filament, as a single roll could be contaminated (although something like that would take accidentally putting completely the wrong polymer in part of a spool, or some other major issue)

[Hans]

Tried multiple rolls, same issue across the board. About half the wire between the thermistor and the rambo has been changed.

Yesterday I did multiple cold-pulls to clean out any contamination, and re-seated all connections on the thermistor circuit. Seems ok for the moment. Very confusing as I've done these things before without result. For right now, it'll extrude down at my original temp range of around 225c. I may even try a 0.4 nozzle again if it keeps printing consistently with the 0.8 like it's been doing most of the day today. I had a big backlog of things I wanted to make.

[Hans]

And yes, it's holding steady still, printing right now with a .4mm nozzle again. Feels good to have my resolution back.
I've got a backlog of projects to get printed, these rockets won't build themselves!

-Hans