Solved - New Pre-Assembled Hot End Issues

[Ravitch]

Hi All,

I just posted this message to support, but wondering if anyone has come across it, and fixed it?

I ordered a new pre-assembled HE280, and it has two issues currently. First is I can never get it to a temperature I set over 210. For example, if I set it for 240, it hits 235 and stays there until it times out. If I set 235 it hits 230 and hovers until it times out.

The second issue is I'm frequently having longer prints get a Heater Decoupled Error, then DEF shows up in both the Bed and Nozzle temperature area.

Any help appreciated!

v/r

Chris

[Dale Eason]

I had a similar problem it was because my original V2 ATX style power supply was not up to the task. So if this is for a V2 and it has the old power supply then you might need the current one they supply with the V3.

Mine would work if I did not turn on the bed heater so if you try that and it does heat up then that probably is the problem (not enough watts PSU).

Dale

[Ravitch]

Thanks for the reply Dale! I have a v3, but I'll go ahead and try my print without the bed heated to see what happens and rule power supply issues out. My V3 bed can't break past around 84-86C, so not sure if that's tied into this. It just hits that range and stalls, and never leaves the eighties

[Polygonhell]

Hi All,

I just posted this message to support, but wondering if anyone has come across it, and fixed it?

I ordered a new pre-assembled HE280, and it has two issues currently. First is I can never get it to a temperature I set over 210. For example, if I set it for 240, it hits 235 and stays there until it times out. If I set 235 it hits 230 and hovers until it times out.

The second issue is I'm frequently having longer prints get a Heater Decoupled Error, then DEF shows up in both the Bed and Nozzle temperature area.

Any help appreciated!

v/r

Chris

If it hits 235 when the temperature is set higher then it's the PID, not the PSU.
You can try rerunning autotune or just manually reduce I and D in the EEPROM.
PID AutoTune in repetier is a total crapshoot IME.

[Eischen3D]

Chris,

I had the same issue with the temperature reaching to the target. The red switch in the side of the power supply box; make sure it's 115, not 230. Obviously i had 230 the whole time with V2 stock hotend.

[Ravitch]

Yep, 235 was where I was stalling. Here are the instructions from support that I followed, but nothing was reduced just raised, in my case the one to 225. After I changed that to 225 I could hit 240, but still would get the heater decoupled error within the first 3 layers:

Hey Chris, sorry to hear about the current struggle with the hot end. Was this what led you to replace the first hotend?

A couple initial thoughts that I have are is the power supply set to 110V? That is switched with the red switch on the side. It is shipped from the factory in the 220 position. If that is where it is still set, that would limit the voltage to about 9v which would prevent the hot end from getting to temp.

The other thought is that we could adjust the PID in the EEPROM to give that hot end a little bit more umph. Check the attached pic. Change the EXTR1. PID drive Max to 200 and try the heating process. If that is better but it still needs a little more, then set it to 225.

Let me know,
SeeMeCNC Support Team
JJ

[Eischen3D]

Also test the voltage output of the power supply. You might need to turn up the voltage output between 12.5V and 13V DC.


Jeff Jr.

[Ravitch]

Thanks, that was one of the first things I checked. 115 is displayed, hopefully the switch isn't reversed hahaha.

Chris,

I had the same issue with the temperature reaching to the target. The red switch in the side of the power supply box; make sure it's 115, not 230. Obviously i had 230 the whole time with V2 stock hotend.

[Ravitch]

Also test the voltage output of the power supply. You might need to turn up the voltage output between 12.5V and 13V DC.


Jeff Jr.

How do y'all u do that Jeff? I don't have a voltage tester which I assume I need, is the voltage output settings in the EEPROM?

[Ravitch]

On a bright note, this is the first issue that I probably didn't cause myself, and I can print a perfect first layer circle that covers the entire bed with not a single gap, bubble, pimple, etc. I've never had better first layers.

[Xenocrates]

Also test the voltage output of the power supply. You might need to turn up the voltage output between 12.5V and 13V DC.


Jeff Jr.

How do y'all u do that Jeff? I don't have a voltage tester which I assume I need, is the voltage output settings in the EEPROM?

The voltage output is set by either a set of electronics in the power supply (ATX, V2 only), or by a potentiometer (LED power supply, late V2/V3). You do need a multimeter with a DC mode, and also you need access to the power supply. If it's an ATX, the only easy solution is replacing it.

[Eischen3D]

At the power supply box; there is a potentiometer at the left of the 12VDC output. You can turn it up between 12.5 and 13V DC. Yes you need a voltmeter.


Regards,
Jeff Jr.

[Ravitch]

Thanks gentlemen, I will get a multimeter with DC mode tomorrow. That's a long overdue purchase, I usually just ask my wife to grab words if I think they're hot and judge the voltage by the screams.

1st layer almost complete and hasn't failed yet, with the bed off. It hasn't made it to a third layer with the hotend over 220 without failing, but the bed heater was always on. But what a beautiful first layer.

[Eischen3D]

Awesome!

Jeff Jr.

[Ravitch]

Wellllll, it died 3 lines into the second layer. Poop. So, getting the voltmeter tomorrow, do you guys know of a good guide or YouTube video that shows how to test and adjust the power supply? Thanks!

[Ravitch]

Wellllll, it died 3 lines into the second layer. Poop. So, getting the voltmeter tomorrow, do you guys know of a good guide or YouTube video that shows how to test and adjust the power supply? Thanks!

Just purchased this, so many to choose from I figured this one was as good as any, and says it has a DC mode.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools- ... /204367271

[Ravitch]

Just to follow up, my voltage was low, I kicked it up to 12.60, which helped get to heat faster and stay but I still decoupled. Totally by accident I figured it out. From another thread I just posted:

I totally figured out my "Hotend Decoupled" followed by the def showing up on the screen, and figured it out by accident. On the new Hotend, when the layer fans kick on at the second layer, they cause the Hotend to rapidly cook until it Hotend Decoupkes and shows Def. I can only turn the layer fans on to 50 percent without cooling the Hotend down to the point where it won't extrude.

[Eischen3D]

about the Autotune, is there a way to autotune both bed and hot end at the same time... I think it would be more accurate than autotune the hotend while the bed is off.



Jeff Jr