Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hey Everyone,

My my Rostock Max kit is in the mail...yahoo! I've built many repraps and have even designed my own printer (behemoth http://xnaron.com). I'm looking forward to getting my romax up and running as soon as it arrives. I printed out a Hollow Calibration Pyramid on my behemoth to help me tune the romax.

Has anyone out there printed this --> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757 with the Rostock Max in PLA? I'm attaching my pics of the one I printed on the Behemoth. I'm hoping to print one as good or better on my new Rostock Max.

So I throw this challenge out there to all you existing Rostock Max owners... lets see your Pyramids!

I'm hoping to see some awesome results and get some good tuning tips! I can't wait to get my kit and get it up and running. Kudos to the SeeMeCNC crew for putting such a nice Rostock kit out there!

BTW my picture is right after the print with NO cleanup...please post your photos raw off the printer.

thanks,
Brendin

Hey xnaron, welcome to the forum. I believe you are over on the CNCZone bench top forum?

I haven't tried this pyramid on the MAX yet but now I have a reason to!

cheers,
Michael

Thanks and yes I've posted a fair amount on that forum about my g0704 cnc mill conversion. I'm glad you are up for the challenge and I look forward to seeing your results

Man I wish my max would print like that. Or should I say I wish I new how to set it up so I get no stringing. Still working on it. Seems to be getting better.

Looks like it can print it but I haven't seen another one since the campaign and hopefully its gotten better since people have been trying different software configs.

I've seen that picture. Just don't know how to make it do that. Still more to learn.

Could someone post the slicer settings to print that out on the Rostock Max?

jesse wrote:Could someone post the slicer settings to print that out on the Rostock Max?

The picture was from the reprap wiki ( http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock_MAX )... here is the text for the settings used:

The following settings were used to calibrate retraction on the hollower pyramid thing at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29429. Filament used was Makerbot 1.75mm Silver ABS. Use these settings for a good general baseline for printing. You can increase the print speed, but you may need to increase hotend temps as you increase speed above 40mm/sec. 235C+ is looking to print well at 35mm/sec speeds

.3 layer height
2 perimeters
0% infill (hollow)
30mm/sec speeds for everything except for external perimeters at 80%
200mm/sec travel speed
228C extruder temp
slow down if print time is below 25 seconds
minimum print speed set to 6mm/sec
10mm retraction @ 55mm/sec retraction speed
0 Z lift
0 extra length on restart
3mm minimum travel after retraction


--------------------------------------------------

This was done in ABS. I want to print in PLA. I know I need to add fans to the Rostock Max to print in PLA and I'm ready to do that.

I've printed this thing on 3 different printers and I've never been able to match the quality in that first picture, I can't cool the struts fast enough tha they don't get pushed around, and I can't get a clean point on top, I'd be interested in what settings and what hot end was used for the pyramid in the first picture.

Polygonhell wrote:I've printed this thing on 3 different printers and I've never been able to match the quality in that first picture, I can't cool the struts fast enough tha they don't get pushed around, and I can't get a clean point on top, I'd be interested in what settings and what hot end was used for the pyramid in the first picture.

Hi,

I printed it on my Behemoth. You can see my fan layout here ( http://xnaron.com/2013/03/08/behemoth-p ... n-pyramid/ )

I used the MG hot end and geared ~5:1 mg style extruder. I sliced it with skeinforge 50 at 0.35mm layer and 1.5 iwot/pwot. Printed with silver PLA from ultimachine (1.75mm) at a temp of 175C. I enabled the cool plugin with min layer time of 10 seconds. Print speed was set to 60mm/sec. Fans were run on high. The 2 cooling fans in the picture push a lot of air. The struts were not getting pushed around at all during the print.

What about H-1's?

tom10122 wrote:What about H-1's?

This challenge is only for Rostock Max. Edit: Actually any Rostock

In preparation for my Rostock Max tuning I have been tweaking os1r1s's mm2 KISS settings for use on my behemoth. I printed out the pyramid again to use as a reference. I am planning on using KISS slicer with the Rostock Max. Picture attached.

That looks great. I tried to print that in abs. What a failure. More work to do. Waiting to see what you can do with the max.

Well, I managed to print the cal pyramid last night. It is also my very first print to come off my printer ever so I am overall very happy with it.

I am using a hotend made up of my old melted hot end while I wait for my new one to arrive. So I suppose this is my first successful print with my home made all metal hotend as well.

Any tips on improvements that can be observed from the pic are of course very welcomed.

I used Slicer from within repetier host. I believe the firmware was marlin.

Print was completed in a hair under 50mins
It is printed in ABS

looks good!

OK I've been having trouble with squashing but I tried this and used mostly the settings on the link just a bit back and with
0.3 layer height
0.4 first layer height
2 perimeters
0 fill
0.9 Extrusion Multiplier
220 degrees Hotend 70 Bed
9 retraction
0 lift
50% speed on the speed multiplier slider
70 Travel speed

The Right one with hairs in it, I increased retraction to 10 and travel speed to 90 from 50 in the first one, and Printed at 70% on the speed multiplier instead of 50% on the Left one

Still not nearly good enough for what I need but getting there

Hey Guys!

Its taken many attempts but here is where I'm at now. Printed with black PLA.

- 0.25mm layer
- 0.35mm nozzle / 188C
- KISS Slicer

Even though I have calibrated my filament I think I am still a tiny but heavy.

Brendin

Looking good. I am almost ready to post my "response" to the challenge.

Anybody tried it with ABS? I think it's quite hard..

aehM_Key wrote:Anybody tried it with ABS? I think it's quite hard..

I think ABS would be easier. PLA is very hard.

mhackney wrote:Looking good. I am almost ready to post my "response" to the challenge.

I'm still not happy with it. I won't be until I can get it to print as nice as my cartesians.

Agreed! Do any of your Cartesian printers have a Bowden? That has been the biggest challenge for me. A direct extruder is "crisp" in its retraction, the Bowden tube introduces some slop.

mhackney wrote:Agreed! Do any of your Cartesian printers have a Bowden? That has been the biggest challenge for me. A direct extruder is "crisp" in its retraction, the Bowden tube introduces some slop.

No this is the first bowden I've played with. I'm at 10mm for retraction right now. On my cartesian I am at 2mm.

Part of the problem I am having is that I cant get a reliable retraction speed above 30mm/s that does not occasionally skip a step. This is even with my stepper digipot set to 255. I think I need to get to at least 60mm/s to start improving things.