The Ultimate Rostock Thing Collection

[DaGroundZero]

I made a quick spacer for my extruder. It doesn't look like much but helps cut down on the noise of my extruder.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104620

[JohnStack]

Here's the updated fan shroud, 50 mm setup still... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:74789

I'll crank out a 40 soon

You printed the example out with a dual head? Can you go into that a bit somewhere?

[daftscience]

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:106977

This is a top mounted spool holder. I have one for SeeMeCNC sized spools and another for Ultimachines 5lb spools. It uses 4 608 bearings.


[img]http://i.imgur.com/2mAWvDt.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/uJipwnd.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/RAEyCd0.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/AP5nypb.jpg[/img]

I've also created another version that combines the two. So you can use three different sized spools, on one mount. I haven't printed that yet.

[JohnStack]

Minimal design! Love it! STLs on thingiverse? You just made my day! Enough motivation now to mount it in the top! This is a three exclamation post...

[doctorgonzo]

Actually, it's 4 in your post, plus the additional 3, so as far as I can tell, that's 7 awesomeness. Pretty flippin awesome insofar as I can surmise .

[daftscience]

Minimal design! Love it! STLs on thingiverse? You just made my day! Enough motivation now to mount it in the top! This is a three exclamation post...

Yup. All the files are here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:106977

After posting here I added another STL that combines the 67mm and the 100mm design. So if you have one long bolt you can use it for three different size spools (but, I haven't printed that one yet.)

[626Pilot]

Mounting plates for an E3D hot end, which accommodates the Bowden option: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137140

Should work with other groovemount heads, as long as they don't need external support for PTC fittings.

[img]http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file.php?id=2828&t=1[/img]

[edward]

I noticed that in Flateric's thread about his 1 hour bug he seemed to be trying to print my cooling duct for the stock effector. I seem to be getting good exposure on Thingiverse, but I thought I'd drop it in here to in case anyone hadn't yet seen it. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:134185

I tried to design it in such a way that it would cool the filament without exposing too much airflow to the hotend. My results with two of them were quite satisfactory.

It's for a 40mm fan and the stock effector. It requires 3 M3 or #6 screws for assembly and mounting.

[MDMD]

Nice design edward. Thanks for sharing it. I'm going to print one of these out and give it a test.

[Flateric]

It really does work well, also very nice model.

[krak]

I printed this out last week. The 40mm fan just came in. When the current print is finished I plan on installing this and the 25mm fan.

[edward]

Glad to hear it's working well for you guys. As I mention on Thingiverse, if your fans aren't balanced, make sure you put some sort of dampener between the fan and the mount. The fewer vibrations the better when dealing with steppers, especially those that are being micro-stepped.

I'm dealing with some mechanical issues after the upgrade to mag-arms and an aluminum build surface right now, but once those are worked out I'll be sharing the designs for my mag-arm effector and new filament cooling solution.

[Nylocke]

When you say "balanced", are you referring to the bearing medium, or something else?

[Flateric]

Edward, one idea I had seeing as how nicely the duct clips on and off. Is to have perhaps 3 different outlet sizes so you could switch to the one most appropriate for the type of print you are doing. For example, a general sized one, this could be the current model. A fine tipped outlet for when doing very small detailed prints such as gears and the like. And lastly a broader opening that is larger than the current outlet size for fast larger printing projects.

[edward]

Edit 2013/08/26 23:25 EDT: I just realized something: what I've said below about vibrations and steppers still stands; however, since our machines are driven by belts instead of something rigid like screws or gears, the steppers are much less likely to be affected by vibrations. The belts will have an attenuating effect. But, I have read about some users experiencing vibration-induced missed steps, so I think that if your fan produces *any* noticeable shaking when powered, do yourself a favor and put a dampening gasket in there. That goes for anything that you add to a moving part of these machines. As it usually goes...better safe than really pissed off later!

When you say "balanced", are you referring to the bearing medium, or something else?

I suppose it would have to do with the bearing. I'm just wanting to note, for those that are unaware, that vibrations *can* cause hell for stepper motors. When the rotor moves between step points it acts under the principles of a dynamic system. There are tiny oscillations around the stopping point that can be amplified if affected just right. Since the holding torque when micro-stepping is less it takes a smaller "kick" to miss a step.

So if your fans noticeably shake when powered, I'd add some kind of dampener between the fan and the mounting surface in a matter similar to adding cork between your steppers and the machine frame. You might also notice a "kicking" of the fan at low speeds (low PWM duty cycles), which could also be an unintended source of vibration, even on a normally well balanced fan. I'm pretty sure the "kicking" is a side effect of a low PWM frequency. That is to say, with the same duty cycle and a higher frequency, you can get a "smoother" output of the same voltage.

Now I'm curious: I wonder if the AVR's hardware PWM outputs are being used for the fans and heating elements or whether they are doing some kind of software PWM generation? To the code batman!

@flateric: I hadn't thought of that directly, but I like the idea. This duct is, I think, v5.2 The other revisions had different nozzle shapes, but mostly due to my inexperience with surface modeling in ProE. Most of my CAD work has been very manual-machine-shop oriented, i.e., right angles, some fillets that can be done with ball nose end mills, circles, squares, straight-lines, things that can be made on standard manual machines. I had to dig out the old texts to refresh my memory on sweeps, blends, and b-splines, and as I regained proficiency, the nozzle evolved.

I can comment on a fine tipped nozzle, though, from my next-gen (what I'm using now) cooling trials. Smaller orifices require more pressure to maintain sufficient flow, and fans are terrible at generating pressure. Not saying it couldn't work, but a couple of tries with something similar didn't.

I did have an idea once about cooling with an aquarium pump. I'm not sure if you could switch it with a solid-state relay to get the regulating effect. I'm also not sure if that would be bad for a pump like that. Not so much the motor, but often small pumps need to be pumping to maintain adequate flow for cooling.

I won't promise anything as the purpose of getting my printer was to aid prototyping at work, and I seem to be perpetually behind due to self-inflicted wounds. But, modifying computer files is rather trivial...I just need to think up a quick-connect feature for changing nozzles. Maybe I can create an easy-to-duplicate mating surface so that other people could develop their own nozzles with the software of their choice...

[krak]

I printed this out last week. The 40mm fan just came in. When the current print is finished I plan on installing this and the 25mm fan.

The 25 hour print finished late last night. Pretty good for a hobby level printer. Now I have the 25mm fan pointed at the hot end, and 40 mm fan duct installed. Which unit should be considered Fan 0 and Fan 1? Where do I need to be looking in the software to control Fan 1?

Oh and so far the fans seem to be pretty well balanced.

Edit: I started a new thread about fan questions to keep this thread a little cleaner.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2485

[doctorgonzo]

How about a PWM-controlled solenoid powered by the shop compressor? Is that overkill? I mean, I could just stand around with a straw and blow. I really like the fan shroud, it will probably be one of the first things I print. Thanks.

-Doc

[edward]

How about a PWM-controlled solenoid powered by the shop compressor? Is that overkill? I mean, I could just stand around with a straw and blow. I really like the fan shroud, it will probably be one of the first things I print. Thanks.

-Doc

I'm not sure if solenoids would like that high frequency operation, or if they could operate fast enough mechanically. I only say this based on awareness of projects in both the hydraulic and automotive industries that are attempting to create PWM valves for "throttle-less" circuits. In both cases I know of research efforts that spanned multiple years.

I'm sure it would certainly provide all the flow you need, though...

[626Pilot]

Rostock MAX Tower Alignment Brace

If you've ever done a tower alignment and thought, "This would be a lot easier if I had two or three friends to hold things very firmly in place," these clamps are for you. I got the idea from someone else on the forums, but I don't remember who it was.

[MSURunner]

Here's the updated fan shroud, 50 mm setup still... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:74789

I'll crank out a 40 soon

You printed the example out with a dual head? Can you go into that a bit somewhere?

Single head, just placed a bit of black filament in the bowden, followed by some orange and fed the black spool in later.

[Mhagan]

I have been working on an enclosure for my Rostock Max. I noticed that a 12x24" sheet of acrylic fits rather nicely between the skates and really leaves a 1.75" gap on the top and bottom. This is really nice for me because I live in an apartment and using a panel saw to cut down a larger sheet in my living room would probably be frowned upon. The printer is with my wife right now doing a demonstration and I will post pictures as soon as she gets back. For now, you will all have to settle for the skeleton Thingiverse page. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:172116

[ccavanaugh]

Looking forward to seeing the end result.

I've been working on a design for a enclosed delta based around seemecnc parts. After calculating out print time on my old h1-1 to be over 120 hours, I cried uncle and just ordered a new Rostock MAX with the intention of adding an enclosure mod.

I'm trying to print in a garage at 50 F and want to keep the heat in. I'm planning on adding a beaglebone or raspberry pi with a CO sensor as a safety device for unattended prints. The enclosure will aid in detection of the CO.

[cjdavis618]

Thought I would post my easy LED light ring.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:204581

Just used 2 sections from a 300smd 12volt led light strip and then glued it to the inside rim. Used Loctite's Go2 Glue and it has held up great for about 50 hours of printing in close proximity to the hotend. This is designed to work with the single hotend stock Rostock max. I have it wired to the fan so they both come on at once since I always run the peek fan at 100% anyway. Leaves 2mm of clearance from the rim to the print surface so no issues dragging parts or anything.

Uses factory screws and no modifications are needed.

[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/cjdavis618/rostock/DF3B9C64-2BD3-437A-B9DA-F7F0D0701F73_zpsyvqbg4ju.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/cjdavis618/rostock/9B3CD5CB-6F49-4BBF-B152-6723FA25420D_zpspslhfpag.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/cjdavis618/rostock/A6808902-C032-4824-9017-592CCE4CB5A0_zpsq5kl5zug.jpg[/img]

[int2str]

Thought I would post my easy LED light ring.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:204581

Very neat!

[mhackney]

Neat and I added it to the collection, thanks!