Budaschnozzle Mount For the Rostock Max

[Av8r RC]

Here's a link to my Budaschnozzle mount for the Max. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:71673

There is also a mount for a transition end fan shroud. I would say this is required if you want to print PLA.

I had to move the Budaschnozzle 5mm forward from the center so that the heating block was centered on the hotend platform. It was just barely clearing the hole in the platform with the nozzle centered, so I moved it.


I originally purchased this for my first printer which had a hotend that basically would not work with PLA, all I had at the time. I got tired of it and tired of trying different designs of my own, that didn't really work well. From the get go the Buda printed awesomely. I did have a few problems with PLA plugging, before I found out about using a fan. But with a fan, absolutely zero problems with plugging. Just one leak.

With that said, I have had zero luck successfully changing nozzles without destroying at least two parts. Once the hotend goes thru a few heat cycles, the aluminum on aluminum threading will gaul against each other basically destroying it. To possibly solve this problem, I've machined a brass threaded piece to replace the aluminum one. Haven't tried to change it since I've installed it, about 20 hours on it right now.

I tried the Budaschnozzle because takes less force to extrude plastic thru it than the stock nozzle. And I never could get decent retracts with the stock nozzle. And in my opinion the extuder seems way overenginered, and I do not like how you are basically relying on friction alone to keep the gears turning. I've put marks on the gears and bolts, ect. to see if there's any gears slipping. I've never seen any slipping, but I just don't like it. Too many possible failure points. Plus it's way louder than the Max. When I hit some layers with 10 or more retracts it makes me want to pull my hair out. Klack---Klack--Klack-Klack,Klack, ,Klack,Klack,Klack,Klack.....


So far since I've put it on the Max I've only printed ABS with it. I've never printed with ABS before I got my Max so no experience with it in my old machine. At printing speeds of 40~50mm/s the Buda will just barely keep a temp of 230~231, when set at 235 or higher. Setting it at 230 and it will float around 227~228. When printing at 50mm/s and just above I couldn't get the temp above 225, at about 65mm/s it was down to 215. And at 100mm/s it was 205. All of this was with the transition zone fan on. It may perform better with it off. But I didn't want to risk melting my mount, it has happened to me before with a PLA mount on my last machine.


I tried wrapping the heater block in kapton, but it only helped marginally. As these PID values show.

Buda only
Kp 48.95
Ki 4.63
Kd 129.51

Buda w/fan
Kp 55.93
Ki 5.81
Kd 134.74

Buda w/fan & wrapped heater block
Kp 52.69
Ki 5.225
Kd 125.36

It also takes about twice as long as the stock to heat up.

[cjdavis618]

That's cool. Thanks for posting this.



I need to get some PLA and try it, I have only printed with abs so far. You said you didn't like the stock steve's extruder, did you change it?

[Polygonhell]

If you really want to print very fast, you have to use PLA, because the viscosity drops dramatically as the temperature increases.
Not that it's really worth it most of the time IMO, there is always some quality loss, and acceleration becomes as much a limiting factor as the selected print speeds.
I have printed parts with 80mm/s perimeters and 100mm/s infill in PLA with a buddaschnozzle on a MendelMax, but the part was 190x190x100 there were 4 of them to print and getting it done at all was more of a requirement than it being perfect.

[foshon]

Tried this stuff?

https://ultimachine.com/content/ceramic-insulation-tape

[Av8r RC]

Thanks for that advise Polygonhell. I've pretty much relinquished myself to avoid printing ABS at faster than 50. I did manage a pretty decent print going at 100mm/s with ABS. I was printing the gear vase at 0.2mm height, I sliced it with Cura using the Joris feature. It should have only taken 4.5hrs to print it at 195mm high. But the bottom started warping real bad, and ruined the print. It even pulled the painters tape off the bed with it, that's what I get for being lazy and not clean the hairspray off the glass first.

Foshon, I do have some of that ceramic tape, just didn't want to mess with it.

[626Pilot]

Just ordered a Budaschnozzle 2. Looking forward to trying this out. Where did you get threaded 6-32 spacers?

[Eaglezsoar]

McMaster Carr is one source of the spacers and or standoffs.

[626Pilot]

McMaster Carr is one source of the spacers and or standoffs.

Cool! I've been looking for a place that ships from the west coast.

[Av8r RC]

I got my spacers from a local ACE hardware.

[626Pilot]

Did your PTC fitting actually screw into the Budaschnozzle? Mine sure doesn't!

[Eaglezsoar]

Did your PTC fitting actually screw into the Budaschnozzle? Mine sure doesn't!

Look at the picture of the Budaschnozzle mount at the link provided at Thingiverse.
The PTC is threaded into the mount, not the Budaschnozzle.

[626Pilot]

I got this all hooked up today. It seems to work pretty well. I have a Budaschnozzle 2, so the way it's depicted doesn't work, but the specified screws (#6-32) fit the three holes in the Budaschnozzle itself and project up past the mounting piece, so it works fine. I also had to remove some material from the curved hole in order to accommodate the 4-pin header hardwired to the Budaschnozzle. Haven't printed the fan shroud yet, but I think it'll probably fit OK.

I installed the nozzle with some PTFE pipe tape. Hopefully the aluminum won't gaul.

For wiring, they ship the hotend with four wires coming off it to a 4-pin female connector, and a matching male connector with 4 wires (maybe 3' long) coming off it which I braided. I used some nice thick speaker wire for the hotend and fan wires, which involved clipping two of the much thinner stock wires and leaving the other two for the thermistor.

I tried to do the PID autotune, but it kept overshooting by ten degrees and never backing off enough to get down to the right temp. I just used the PID settings in the first post and they work alright, although there is a bounce of a few degrees. Doesn't seem to matter too much. I'll try again later. Perhaps the new settings will help it zoom in on the right numbers next time.

The SeeMe hotend I'm replacing had a .5 nozzle and this thing has a .25 nozzle. After measuring the plastic at an average of 0.3, I changed a couple settings in KISSlicer and it was ready to go. Didn't have to mess with the retract settings or anything, and it works a lot better than the SeeMe hotend. There is noticeably less friction feeding filament through by hand, even with a narrower nozzle. After it does a retract, there is absolutely no "burping" whatsoever, whereas the stock hotend would usually not lay plastic for the first millimeter or so and then give me a little glob or something before it started extruding reliably. This thing consistently deposits material the moment the post-retract jump is done. Even with fairly aggressive settings (0.1mm layer height, 45mm/sec, lots of curved surfaces) it's printing with reasonably good quality. I'm looking forward to trying sub-0.1 layer heights.

My first print is the Budaschnozzle mounting plate, in case the existing one goes out. After that I'll do the fan shroud and see if it fits.

[Eaglezsoar]

Have you tried PLA filament and if so what were the results?

[626Pilot]

Have you tried PLA filament and if so what were the results?

Just got started printing PLA today. With the bed at 70C and the hot-end at 195C, it will lay down my gray PLA on an untreated tempered glass surface very easily. No kapton, painter's tape, or hairspray required. Too much filament or the wrong height values will result in the head dragging filament all over the place and creating a huge mess, but once I got those settings dialed in, it went well. The fan shroud is not a perfect fit for the Buda v2, although if the part of the mounting plate it affixes to projected out another centimeter or so it would. It does fit - it's just pushed out a little on the bottom.

I've done several prints using PLA with this hot-end and it's never jammed. I can even cold-start it, feed 30mm or so of filament through it to get it primed, and then start printing. With the stock hot-end I would have to pull out the end of the filament, clip the swollen part, then feed it back through and hope I could get it printing before it jammed again.

I think that my combination of the 1.0 controller board (1/8th instead of 1/16th stepping) combined with the EZStruder (no gear reduction) is hurting print quality a little. There are times when the stepper motor turns so slowly that I can feel individual pulses when I touch it, and I believe this pulsing may be reflected in the flow rate out of the nozzle. I can see the filament visibly getting wider and narrower on the first layer in a very rhythmic pattern. That's at 20mm/sec, which I have the 1st layer capped at in KISSlicer. It seems to print better at 60mm/sec - there is less oscillation, walls seem less wavy, there is less corner globbing (but not much), etc. At the moment I've got the speed doubled in Repetier and there doesn't seem to be any reduction in quality, so I guess for some prints it will go to 120mm/sec without any noticeable quality degradation over 60mm/sec.

Retract performance is very good using KISSlicer. It does "burp" a little when resuming. Doesn't do that with ABS. The effect isn't too bad, and is still better than the stock hot-end in the same scenario.

One of the main reasons to go with PLA instead of ABS: once the plastic is laid, it stays where it is. The edges never curl up off the platform, and it stays plastic long enough that it doesn't start "air printing" once the print head is more than an inch above the heated plate. With ABS, sometimes I'll walk in to check on a long print, and (especially if it's on the taller side) there will be a half-done piece sitting on the build plate, and the extruder will be flying around with a giant tangled mess of plastic all over it. PLA has never done that to me - it just sticks where it's put.

[theverant]

If you really want to print very fast, you have to use PLA, because the viscosity drops dramatically as the temperature increases.
Not that it's really worth it most of the time IMO, there is always some quality loss, and acceleration becomes as much a limiting factor as the selected print speeds.
I have printed parts with 80mm/s perimeters and 100mm/s infill in PLA with a buddaschnozzle on a MendelMax, but the part was 190x190x100 there were 4 of them to print and getting it done at all was more of a requirement than it being perfect.

I have no idea how fast it actually prints, due to acceleration, but I pretty much always print 120-150 on the MB Replicator 1 here at work. Perimeters are much slower, but the infill really motors. Almost always print with ABS, camera bits n bobs. Surface is acceptable quality with what I would consider minimal anomalies.

Is there some way to figure out how fast the printer is actually printing? Would I time a print and then figure out how much plastic was used and base it on that?

Would be nice to know how much of the high speed is "advertising".

[626Pilot]

One thing about this hot end... the thermistor they use seems to have problems with high duty cycles during printing. It will read stable at whatever temperature I give it, even when it's warming up and presumably dissipating lots of power. But as soon as I get that filament flowing, and the duty cycle goes over about 70-80%, it starts showing dips in the temperature graph, which increase both in frequency and severity over time.

I ordered some replacement thermistors from Mouser, same model as far as I can tell. The new one does it too!

If you find yourself needing to replace the thermistor, my advice is, go with a different thermistor.