Another rostock max build

[cambo3d]

went to home depot today and while I was there I picked some of this ptfe dry lube in a spray can. Placed it on all my joints and the difference was night and day. Might even work good for the moving parts in the extruder to get rid of some of the squeaks, just dont get it on the filament roller.

[cambo3d]

I thought I'd share this with everyone since there has been some confusion on how much gap to have between the extrusion and the frame. I am in the process of reassembly and I might as well show you how i did it. Following procedures assume you have checked your laser cut parts and all are aligned properly.

for this to work part numbers 68351 (base table top), 68368 (top support plate), and 68369 (TOP IDLER MOUNTS, check hole alignment) need to be perfectly the same. Sand if you need to square them up. photo shown below of the two circular plates stacked on top of each other. yes i know my spelling is wrong.

Once your ready to install the aluminum extrusions here's how to get them perfectly the same height. installation bolts are installed snug but not tightened yet at this point. If you dont have an extra t-slot nut, use whatever that fits in that hole.

WHATEVER, you used here make sure that the material is snug against the extrusion. (note: this assumes that all your extrusions are the same length also, check before you proceed)

install the screw that holds the top support plate to the extrusion, its one single screw held in by an anchor nut on the other side. (you can do this step before hand also, i just chose to put it here in the write up)

Once the above has been done. Grab the feeler gauges, flat automotive type, you get these from any autoparts store, I got mine from advance auto parts.
use the feeler gauge as space gauge. Press the extrusion against it and tighten up the bolts for the bottom. (select a feeler gauge that will give you the same space for the bottom and the top, mine came out to be .024in or .610mm)

next go to the top, and do the same thing. once you have the space correct tighten down the bolts.

Now repeat this procedure for the other two towers.
Once done all three towers will be at the same height and perpendicular to each other. Oh yeah, DONT FORGET TO REMOVE YOUR ALIGNMENT TOOLS (IE. T-SLOT NUT THAT YOU USED TO ALIGN THE BOTTOM AND THE MATERIAL YOU USED TO ALIGN THE TOP

[aehM_Key]

I recommend to measure the height.

[cambo3d]

it is measured, they all measured the same. And you can do this once your done aligning all the towers just to double check.
Everything should measure the same if all your laser cut parts are aligned like I stated earlier.

[aehM_Key]

Ok, great. I aligned with the marks and it was few mm off, when measuring.

[cambo3d]

new hotend that will get retrofitted into my max. I've been following the development of metal hotends and this one is now available for purchase. One downside depending on how you look at it, is that it uses 3mm filament at the moment. 1.75mm will be available at a later date.

hot end can print Nylon, Polycarbonate, PLA, ABS, LayWood, PVA, HDPE and just about any type of filament there is currently available on the market. no PTFE or plastic is used in the hot end and it is safe up to 400C. currently available at http://trinitylabs.com/products/trinity ... emp-hotend

[Eaglezsoar]

Great job on the pictures and the explanation! This certainly has to be the best way to install the extrusions, the idea of using the t-nut on its side at the bottom was brilliant!
Thanks for writing this up, I am just at the point of installing the uprights and this is a godsend.
Could you say where those hotends are available?

Carl

[cambo3d]

sorry, updated link in my post

glad someone found this idea helpful. =)

[foshon]

Do you have a method of attaching the hot-end in mind?

[cambo3d]

making a jhead adapter to fit our rostock platform.

[Eaglezsoar]

making a jhead adapter to fit our rostock platform.

Be sure to let us know how that Hot-End works, they should all be made like that...without the Peek or other
parts that can melt. That was a good find, the only other ones I've seen made like that come from England.

Carl

[Eaglezsoar]

sorry, updated link in my post

glad someone found this idea helpful. =)

I just installed my uprights using your tips and everything came out perfect without trying to eyeball the lines and screwing around.
I highly recommend your method for anyone building the Rostock Max. Thank you for sharing these ideas with us. I'm not going to
mention a change to the "manual" but if anyone from SeemeCNC reads this thread they should consider this method of installing the
extrusions as the official method and document it as such.

Carl

[foshon]

I've printed this one, it fits.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38114

[cambo3d]

Will definitely let you guys know how the hotend works out. Carl thanks for the compliment, Hopefully this will help a lot of people.

foshon i've downloaded a couple of rostock j-head adapter stls. That one I dont have yet. Will have to try them to see which works best or make one of my own.

[Eaglezsoar]

I've printed this one, it fits.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38114

I have a Budasnozzle, do you think that this part would allow me to use it on the the Rostock?
I can't print it yet but getting closer.

Carl

[cambo3d]

anyone know how well the rostock operates with 3mm filament. or is there any notable difference?

just finished getting my rostock back together, hopeful that all the replaced parts to get my rostock more square will help.. getting ready to print some calibration prints.. crossing my fingers.

[Eaglezsoar]

anyone know how well the rostock operates with 3mm filament. or is there any notable difference?

just finished getting my rostock back together, hopeful that all the replaced parts to get my rostock more square will help.. getting ready to print some calibration prints.. crossing my fingers.

You are probably the first to try the 3mm filament, at least in theory it should work with that great hotend you bought. Good Luck.

Carl

[foshon]

I've printed this one, it fits.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38114

I have a Budasnozzle, do you think that this part would allow me to use it on the the Rostock?
I can't print it yet but getting closer.

Carl

There is a version in that link for the Budda, it replaces the original adapter.

[foshon]

anyone know how well the rostock operates with 3mm filament. or is there any notable difference?

just finished getting my rostock back together, hopeful that all the replaced parts to get my rostock more square will help.. getting ready to print some calibration prints.. crossing my fingers.

Good Luck!! Can't wait to see the results, filament costs being the same for both diameters and all.

[cambo3d]

I spent a good part of the day working on printer calibration using slicer but I could not get rid of the gaps near the perimeters. I printed about 6 or more calibration cubes after making changes to slicer settings with no improvement. Then finally, I switched over to Kisslicer and man did it make a difference. Using settings posted my mhackney I was finally able to print a nicely infilled calibration cube.

earlier in the day I keep thinking maybe my arms were still binding somewhere so spent another 3 hours sanding and test fitting till i felt it was perfect. Tried more prints with slicer and still was getting gaps near the perimeter. Even with the new version of slicer my infills weren't going to the edge. I probably messed with almost every setting in that program.

So for me changing slicing software made a big difference.

failed prints with slic3er, infills not reaching the edges

With just one print using mhackneys kisslicer settings (by the way thanks for posting these settings)

This calibration part of the printer is kickin my butt, but then again the whole build has been a pain in the butt.

On another note: Since i've switched to the just the boroglass and my build surface stays pretty flat at temp. I previously had problems with the aluminum warping.

[cambo3d]

my new frame kit arrived from tricklaser.com also.. check out my custom made belt tensioner mount.

original left, new on the right http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=220

tricklaser TL-1 frame looks well cut and pre-removed from laser cutting sheet. packed nicely. will be assembling this and posting another report.

after some unpacking and visual inspection the kit is well cut, and very well aligned. top plate is perfectly symmetrical to the bottom plates. I can rotate the top plate to all three positions and the slots line up.

rambo mount is inside like the new rostockmax kits but it has more holes for mounting and running wires. also a fan mount.

[Eaglezsoar]

I can't wait to see what you are going to do with that belt tensioning mount.
Was there a significant cost when they provide custom parts in place of the standard part?

Carl

[cambo3d]

some preliminary test fit photos. looks promising and I think its going to work. Now I know the exact sizes i need for turnbuckles. i'm gonna start looking for better parts. maybe get turnbuckles that are more heavy duty.

[cjdavis618]

Cambo, I think that kit looks much better. But on the tension system, I think I would remake that.

If I recall you do a bit of machine work also. Wonder if you could use that tension mount but create a wishbone shaped bearing holder to replace the spacers on each side of the bearing. Then machine a point at the top for a single adjustment screw with a solid adjustment plate at the top.


I can cad out what I am talking about if that would help explain better.

[cambo3d]

I didn't want to machine any parts, goal was to make out of what was already available. I would rather prefer one single point of adjustment though.