Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

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Aurora900
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

MKGrinch wrote:Welcome Danielle! Congrats on your first build, looking good so far!!! Keep up the good work and keep those pics coming! It is nice to see a local besides me here!!

Another long islander! Awesome :P If you're curious, I'm in Merrick.



Also, a side note not in reference to you, but to the post I just made before this... I did put kapton tape over all the solder pads. I just took that picture before I got to it. Also, the big 12v pads were a little difficult to solder to for some reason...
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by geneb »

I'm going to be starting work on a second edition manual very soon. This 2nd edition will strip out all the "if you've got a thing that looks like this, do that, but if it looks like THIS, do THAT" nonsense. I'm also going to be dropping all the "optional" stuff and moving all that to a "mods" chapter at the end of the manual.

Nice build so far, good job!

g.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

geneb wrote:I'm going to be starting work on a second edition manual very soon. This 2nd edition will strip out all the "if you've got a thing that looks like this, do that, but if it looks like THIS, do THAT" nonsense. I'm also going to be dropping all the "optional" stuff and moving all that to a "mods" chapter at the end of the manual.

Nice build so far, good job!

g.

Thanks! The multiple revisions for the bed being in the instructions are fine, that doesn't bother me (I can only assume that you were at some point trying to get rid of inventory and shipping some older revisions at the same time, also people who purchased an older kit may want to be able to reference the old instructions if they have to take apart their machine)... but what I'd really love to see is the actual Rev7 instructions. Also you might want to update some of the older pictures from the manual with the new versions of the base plates. I was very confused at first which plate was the right one because the vents are very different.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by geneb »

Most if not all of the original photos will be thrown out. The 2nd edition manual won't replace what's there - it'll be a totally separate document.

I typically find out about part changes when someone emails me and goes, "What's this for?" :)

g.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

geneb wrote:Most if not all of the original photos will be thrown out. The 2nd edition manual won't replace what's there - it'll be a totally separate document.

I typically find out about part changes when someone emails me and goes, "What's this for?" :)

g.
Oh, haha, even better! Too bad you probably won't have that until I'm done with my build though :P
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by geneb »

Yeah, the current production kit won't be here till Monday and I'm not planning a week-long deathmarch like I did for the current v2 manual. :)

g.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

Put another 4.5 hours into it tonight, bringing me up to 11.5 hours total so far.

I didn't end up doing the wires last night... I was too lazy. They took me about an hour to get done today. It was actually pretty difficult for me to get them through. The easiest was the 18ga wires because they're pretty stiff and wanted to go in a straight line down the tube. The second most difficult was the 22ga wire, because theres a lot of them in that little tube and they wanted to keep bunching up. The end stop wires were the things nightmares are made of. I don't know how they expect you to get those through in pairs... I only got the first pair through together. The rest I had to do one by one and in order to prevent bunching I used the wires which were already pulled through to coax the rest through. I basically pulled as much wire as I could to the end I was feeding from, then started feeding the next wire. Once I felt the resistance of the wire pushing back I started pulling the existing wires back through the other side in short bursts as I fed the new wire in. This helped significantly to pull the new wires through and I continued that shuffling act until everything was through. It was a massive pain but I did it.

Here's all the towers in place with their wiring:
[img]http://staticexperiment.com/rostock/DSCN0152s.jpg[/img]

Next came the top... nothing really to talk about here... but here it is, complete with end stop switches and T nuts:
[img]http://staticexperiment.com/rostock/DSCN0160s.jpg[/img]

Actually... let me complain a little more about the manual, even though geneb is redoing it... (sorry lol) The manual did not mention that the tower supports for the top look completely different now until after all the instructions regarding them. I almost panicked again thinking I was missing pieces. Once I read further down I noticed the tiny little insert saying they changed them... but I nearly went crazy. I still haven't learned my lesson... that if I just read a bit more ahead usually all my questions get answered :P

Next up is the inside cheapskate assemblies. The manual was very confusing about this part. It says that you should line the inside and outside pieces up to make sure you have the correct orientation, and tells you to do it by making the eyes look to the right. That's simple enough.... but then it doesn't tell you which side of the inside plate you're actually supposed to install the u-joint base to. Without having prior knowledge for what this part is for or where it will end up once completely assembled its difficult to understand that it should be on the inner side of the inside plate. It's also over-complicating the whole matter. Seeing as the 2 holes towards the top of the plate are at different positions, a much simpler explanation to the correct orientation would be to simply tell the user to lay the inside plate flat with the hole closer to the top on the right. That's a sure fire way to make sure its in the right position to attach the u-joint base. It also simultaneously identifies to the user which side is the top because the bottom 2 holes are directly across from each other.

So instead of trying to figure out the orientation in relation to other pieces, just simply lay it down so that the hole closest to the top is on the right. You can see this in the picture below (which also happens to have the completed u-joint assembly)
[img]http://staticexperiment.com/rostock/DSCN0161s.jpg[/img]

You can also see the skates in the background there.... Those were a pain too. My fingers still hurt from pressing those all together. I don't know what the tolerance is typically supposed to be on those, but it was extremely extremely tight on some of mine. I actually had to place one of them on the floor and stand on it to get it on. I mean, I know I'm not very strong but damn were these tough.

And here we see the completed cheapskate assemblies mounted on the towers:
[img]http://staticexperiment.com/rostock/DSCN0165s.jpg[/img]

That's all for tonight... This portion of the build really tired me out! I didn't even bother to adjust the tension on the carriages yet, I'll do it tomorrow. So much struggling tonight, but I got through it. I'm a little sad that I couldn't complete it in 3 days like I wanted (I'm working fewer hours per day than anticipated), but I'm guessing I should have the rest done tomorrow night (hopefully)
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Eaglezsoar »

Outstanding job!
Please don't feel bad that it is taking longer then you would like, I believe it is better to slow down and
do it right the first time instead of racing through the build. Great build!
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by MKGrinch »

Aurora900 wrote:
MKGrinch wrote:Welcome Danielle! Congrats on your first build, looking good so far!!! Keep up the good work and keep those pics coming! It is nice to see a local besides me here!!

Another long islander! Awesome :P If you're curious, I'm in Merrick.



Also, a side note not in reference to you, but to the post I just made before this... I did put kapton tape over all the solder pads. I just took that picture before I got to it. Also, the big 12v pads were a little difficult to solder to for some reason...
Not far at all...Hicksville here....I put kapton tape on all my connections, it won't hurt just helps...keep up the good work.
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Aurora900
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

MKGrinch wrote:
Aurora900 wrote:
MKGrinch wrote:Welcome Danielle! Congrats on your first build, looking good so far!!! Keep up the good work and keep those pics coming! It is nice to see a local besides me here!!

Another long islander! Awesome :P If you're curious, I'm in Merrick.


Also, a side note not in reference to you, but to the post I just made before this... I did put kapton tape over all the solder pads. I just took that picture before I got to it. Also, the big 12v pads were a little difficult to solder to for some reason...
Not far at all...Hicksville here....I put kapton tape on all my connections, it won't hurt just helps...keep up the good work.
Yeah, that's only about 15 minutes or so away
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

So tonight I made some more progress, mounted the top and got 2 of the belts on. I'm not going to do a fill update with pictures yet...

I was hoping to get my replacement pulley today but it didn't come... Which means I can't mount the 3rd belt. Feeling discouraged, I stopped early tonight... I suppose I could start on the ezstruder stuff, but *shrug* I'll do it tomorrow.

2.5 hours of work tonight, putting me at a total of 14 hours.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

Well the replacement pulley never came... so I called support today and asked them whats up... It apparently didn't ship out until today. I'm pretty upset about this but there's nothing anyone can do. They told me I would get it in 3 days, but it took them 4 days to even ship it...

Shit happens and I understand that... someone dropped the ball somewhere. We're all human. My instinct is to yell and scream but it's not going to make the part get here any sooner...
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by crocky »

Be patient, you will get there soon enough :)

I've just spent almost a month waiting on crimping pliers to finish mine... Only paid $15 for them :)

Mine works now and just few more connectors on the hot end to complete today or tomorrow and it should be printing, I am a very disabled 63 old. Only got one arm and one leg that works and spend most of the days in a wheelchair but 3D printing is a very enjoyable pastime.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

crocky wrote:Be patient, you will get there soon enough :)

I've just spent almost a month waiting on crimping pliers to finish mine... Only paid $15 for them :)

Mine works now and just few more connectors on the hot end to complete today or tomorrow and it should be printing, I am a very disabled 63 old. Only got one arm and one leg that works and spend most of the days in a wheelchair but 3D printing is a very enjoyable pastime.
I'm trying to be... but I'm a big fan of instant gratification lol

The most frustrating part is that its something that can be so easily fixed.... if you have access to the tool to fix it.

And wow... I'm sitting here wishing I had 3 hands for a few portions of this build... I can't even imagine doing it one handed.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by crocky »

I have very understanding wife and even putting a crimp on wires requires two of us and she is not a techo! and I like to do most of it. I used to run and own a computer business so it is not too hard. I had a pretty serious stroke about 13 years ago and now I do what I have to get things happening. It's all good :)
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by bot »

Shoulda got that creepy guy to tap it for you!! :P
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Aurora900
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

bot wrote:Shoulda got that creepy guy to tap it for you!! :P
Yeah it was too late to ask him. I would have done that had I known the part never shipped...
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by RAMTechRob »

Ace Hardware or Home Depot have taps and handles that can get you fixed up tonight. About $4.00 for a tap and you can even use an adjustable wrench for a handle.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by RAMTechRob »

If you are close to Bablylon, shoot me PM. I have a friend there that can do it.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

RAMTechRob wrote:Ace Hardware or Home Depot have taps and handles that can get you fixed up tonight. About $4.00 for a tap and you can even use an adjustable wrench for a handle.
Really? I thought you'd need like a drill press and a vice or something to make sure its straight... I've never tapped anything lol. There's a home depot and an ace like 1 mile from me (actually I used to work at ace lol and I didn't even know they had them)
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

RAMTechRob wrote:If you are close to Bablylon, shoot me PM. I have a friend there that can do it.
Babylon is about 30 minutes from me... but if its easy enough to do on my own I would just buy the tool
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by RAMTechRob »

[img]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c ... wrench.jpg[/img]

its very easy. The hardest part will be to figure out what size thread it is. You just need to use a screw and see what size fits. Unless one of the SeeMeCNC people know off the top of thier heads?
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by bot »

That is one HUGE picture... but yes it is very easy. The hole lines everything up for you... you just need to turn it. It's all done by hand/in hand. You don't NEED a vice, but it would help. Safety gloves/garden gloves to protect your hand if holding the piece.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by RAMTechRob »

Sorry, i'm on my phone in the airport. I'm sure Youtube has a video about tapping a hole.
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Re: Aurora's Rostock Max v2 build

Post by Aurora900 »

Hey guys... guess what I just did!

I'll give you a hint...
[img]http://staticexperiment.com/rostock/DSCN0210s.jpg[/img][img]http://staticexperiment.com/rostock/DSCN0209s.jpg[/img]

You have no idea how happy I am that this worked and was so easy. I had no idea it was that simple. I couldn't find an exact match for the existing set screws so I picked out a 4-40 tap since it was the closest in width and bought 2 matching 4-40 screws. Once screwed all the way in they stick out a tiny bit, but they shouldn't be in the way of anything.

Thanks everyone for your help with this, I really appreciate it. I just mounted it and ran the drive belt up that tower and finished mounting the effector arms. Pictures and details to follow in my next post (I just have to prepare the images and upload them)
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