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I just upgraded my RMAX3.2 to FabLam build surface. PLA refuses to stick. Anyone have some good/magic/voodoo settings I can try to make this work?

Using Cura with the SeeMeCNC settings that have always worked great with glass + gluestick.

I would like to revive and expand this topic. Maybe turn it into a guide. Like everyone else I am milling around my house more and the 2in1 dual color upgrade has enticed me for a while now. I own a Rostock Max v3.2, upgraded from a v3. Primarily I use Simplify3d for my slicer. I know the general ...

I used the build dimensions from the original S3D profile for the Rostock Max. I've taken your setting and will try them, thanks!

Hopefully the profile will give others a starting point. Though I was getting consistent stringing across all of my PLA and PETG rolls. My latest settings seems to have eliminated 99% of it. YMMV

I have a new version of my S3D FFF for the v3.2...

Spent most of the day tweaking the settings until I virtually eliminated my stringing. Still dialing everything in, but thought I would share my work in process.

I have a new version of my S3D FFF for the v3.2...

Spent most of the day tweaking the settings until I virtually eliminated my stringing. Still dialing everything in, but thought I would share my work in process.

Anyone else using S3D on Linux?

Well the issue is gone. Upgraded to the v3.2 and honestly I couldn't be happier with the upgrade. When I was performing the upgrade I did fine two possible suspects for the issue I originally posted. One was a cut on the heated bed thermistor wire running up extruded aluminum. The wire separated on ...

I also get the "tapping" of the head. It's like it is feeling for the top of the print. Until I read this thread I didn't consider it an issue. Does anyone know for sure?

Been working on this Rostock Max v3.2 FFF for Simplify3D and I am pretty sure its just about there. I took a mix of the standard Simplify3D profile for the RMAXv3, the proposed settings for Cura from SeeMeCNC and the settings for the Artemis. It prints very nicely on my freshly upgraded v3.2. You ...

Been working on this Rostock Max v3.2 FFF for Simplify3D and I am pretty sure its just about there. I took a mix of the standard Simplify3D profile for the RMAXv3, the proposed settings for Cura from SeeMeCNC and the settings for the Artemis. It prints very nicely on my freshly upgraded v3.2. You ...

What is a Maestro?

This problem is hopefully going to be a moot point soon. Just ordered the v3.2 upgrade...

I will have to try that, but I can home the printer just fine from the blue knob after the problem happens. Wiring, power supply or the controller board were my thoughts at this point.

SD. I haven’t tried a different card but it started this issue while I was using Astroprint. I then switched to SD to pull that as being part of the issue.

Everything has been great for about a year then now over the last few days the printer has been acting strange. Heating up and printing all start fine then somewhere at a random point during the print it will just stop moving. The heat sometimes stays on and sometime it shuts off, just no movement ...

just saw this thread. If you have the stock RAMBo controller, I just found out that it has a 5v output that could be used to power a Raspberry Pi. I did this on my Rostock MAX v3...mounts in the top. I did run across an issue with this setup and AstroPrint. When powering on the Rostock, the pi gets ...