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if you are using current firmware, it is listed around billions of stars right on the top of configuration.h... // ############################################################################################ //############################# Define your motherboard here ...

did you upgrade the frame as well? if not, there is a difference between the floating and the rigid mounting of the heated bed... you have v3 set in your firmware, but if you still are using the v2 frame, you need to select v2 in the firmware because you still have a v2, just with the current hotend ...

Any reason the code freezes if the bed and HE are up to temp? At temperature I have yet to have the code complete, it'll freeze then reset. Anyone else see that? the probing routine must be ran when the machine is at room temp as we have said... the accelerometer is sensitive to lots of things. I'm ...

G30 S2 writes to EEPROM: if(com->hasS() && com->S == 2) EEPROM::storeDataIntoEEPROM(); Yeah, I was the one who wrote the probing code for our firmware, and it does, but the values do not stick for the next print for some reason unless there is the M500 for some goofy reason. The values do store to ...

That gcode must end in a M500 or the values will not save to the eeprom. The correct code should be as follows: G69 S2 ;Endstop Calibration M117 ENDSTOPS CALIBRATED G68 ;Horizontal Radius Calibration M117 HORIZONTAL RADIUS CALIBRATED G30 S2 ;Z height calibration M117 Z Height Calibrated M500 ;Save ...

that depends what color the board is for your lcd, if you have a white board, the directions are different than if you have a blue or red board. We have been shipping with LCD controllers that have a blue and red board for a few months, and the directions are different than the old white one, so the ...

it works well enough for me.. so far I have 5 days printing time on my v3 for testing..
results looks good..

It goes right behind that plug with the thin red and black wires... the wire connects to the second pin from the edge of the board, so you will line the plug up with the top pin (the plug with the red and black and offset by one pin, this way the two plugs can butt up against each other)

change your non print travel speed down, if it is set at 300 (which we have asked for the default to change, but it hasnt yet) bring it down to about 150 and that issue will go away.

We read when we get the chance =) but lately the shop has been so busy it is hard to find time to do so, and I'm not one with access to the shipping system so I cant get in there and check it out. Best way to contact us is either the support ticket or web chat.

It's a combination of a couple things... yes, in testing (even with the heat turned off, but at temp) you can get false hits but not have them when it is cold, so temp does play a factor.. second is gunk on the nozzle, if you have filament in the hotend and heat it up, then run the calibration the ...

Thanks Eagle, to get all the machines done on time me and JJ pulled an all nighter thrusday night to build machines. I was clocked in from 7am Thursday morning till about 7:30am Friday morning lol. Now I'm running a test print on every machine before they get boxed up.

It communicates to the rambo via I2C, not endstop like most use. The firmware has been heavily modified (I wrote the calibration gcode commands, they were not in there) and the accelerometer init stuff was added by ultimachine. We have been working on a one for all firmware, so our eris firmare has ...

gene is correct... endstop offsets, horizontal radius, and z height are the 3 caliibration commands.. we are having it in a macro because we also tweak the acceleration before and put it back to normal after so we can get a nice fast hit to trigger the accelerometer.

that wire looks to be good and in there far enough to get a good crimp on it. give it a death grip squeeze and it should clamp down plenty to work

also, if pats are not sticking on the fablam, wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol and do not touch the surface.. after a wipe down with alcohol, things stick amazingly well

Xenocrates: since the beds are just clips, if you had a thicker heat spreader, you would likely need to print the hold downs since it is designed for the thickness of the bed and glass only, or use a heat spreader the same thickness as the glass. In the base is the power supply.. the wires ran to ...

To hit all your points U.S. Water Rockets: Yes No, I just had 1000 blue leds of that size from a project about 7 years ago and thought it would look cool so I put it on since I was bored when I built it. Correct They are. No, glass is flush with wood base so we used the same clips the eris uses as ...

FYI anyone who comes across this later and also gets the kit, you do not need to use the side plate to bridge the gap, the hole in the bottom is actually good for ventilation on the psu... you can use this template that is linked on the psu kit page to mark the holes to drill.

Guanu

Gene, the blue wire was used for literally one day when we ran out of white and werent going to keep from shipping because of that.. no big deal, we got the white the next day so only a dozen or so kits have the blue instead of white. We did not change that on you, promise lol

steps per mm should be 80

also check your LCD cables, if the ribbon cables are put on wrong it can cause the printer to keep rebooting as you are describing.

sounds like the x and z motors are plugged into the wrong spots... verify your motor wiring.

if your readings are in mm as you posted, being +/- 20 microns should be nothing to worry about... with a mechanical switch and step accuracy of the motors being .0125, I'd say you are within tolerance. Typical first layers are usually a .3 layer and that should more than compensate for any ...

spring clips: http://seemecnc.com/collections/parts-accesories/products/spring-clips-for-u-joints-6-pack molded acetal u-joints (no longer metal so no metal on metal binding): http://seemecnc.com/collections/parts-accesories/products/universal-joint-sold-ea axles (also a new coated style): http ...