Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I'm going to have to check them out, they're about 30 minutes from where I work, and the fact that they sell material in very large rolls excites me, as I've been looking for something truly huge (Potential customers don't like to hear about my 3lb limit when they want my large build area and solid ...

I use Uhu glue stick on my glass, I had a large surface area Nylon print stick so well to it that it pulled out a large chip, but other than that it's been going strong the last 480 hours like that. Works great for ABS too.

What's your tip look like? Mine is covered in pyrolized crud from ABS and Nylon. Occasionally when I print natural Nylon I'll see stuff like this in the print, I assume it's just residue that got knocked of the nozzle or fell from the heater block.

The sad fact is that most filament comes from the factory wet, no matter how hard they try to package it dry, this is probably in part due to the water bath it has to pass through. Set it in an oven at around 150C (300F) for an hour or two with convection on. In the future, store filament between ...

Definitely interesting. If a Filament can be processed for investment casting traditionally then anyone could print in it and hand the parts over to be professionally casted, opening up steel and iron casting, and other high temp materials which backyard forges can't or won't pour.

Yep, I only go about 5-6 prints without removing the glass and cleaning. Always apply the glue cold too, applying it hot makes the surface lumpy and affects the 1st layer quality.

How much air flow is there in the room the printer is in? ABS is much more sensitive to airflow cooling it than PLA is, so those layers might be when a cold breeze cooled the plastic faster than previous layers.

I've been having very good luck with Uhu glue stick and a 100C bed with a raft, base lines 1.5mm apart and a .4mm nozzle. It's enough to stay stuck, but lets it come off relatively easy when you want to.

It's a Snapware 40 cup container with handle. I just used a 3/8" drill bit and screwed the PTC in.

More pics. Spent the day putting it all back together, took me about 10 hours with being lazy and all, but it's printing. [img]http://i.imgur.com/hxrrsLV.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/u4HVEgK.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/h7GXmox.png[/img] Drybox feeder using the PTC from my E3d, a large air ...

I guess I'll add my bragging rights here. I've done a 19" tall part at 20% infil, bed 100C Extruder 235C, as well as a 60 hour, 9" tall build of two separate parts at 95% infill, 100C & 230C. The later of which did have some minor cracking, which was why I started using 235C for ABS. But, this was ...

The Harbor Freight pump looks pretty much exactly like the unit that Best Value Vac's sells, I assume they both come from the same chinese distributor and only have the labels and boxes changed, assuming they aren't boxed here in the states after coming in bulk containers. Make sure you factor in an ...

Figured I'd post about this. The picture used was from August when the Engineering Society of Detroit took a tour of our headquarters. At the time the printer was just beginning a 60 hour print which turned out well. [img]http://i.imgur.com/QsKfzvn.jpg[/img] The article in question is found on page ...

The 2.5 cfm harbor freight one does alright, and comes up on sale and coupons a lot. It gets the chamber down to -29"hg pretty fast. I already had mine for AC work, but I want a better one now.

Yeah, just a vacuum chamber, it's useful for storing and drying filament. The trimmer nylon I got shipped from TN and was rather wet Thursday afternoon when I put it in, vacuum always went right to 50% RH, after a few days of running the vacuum pump a few times a day for a few minutes it's down to ...

So, I keep my printer at work because of space issues at home, and because as an engineering firm it's handy to have around. We recently moved to a new building and the room I've been given for the printer has no heat, my solution, build a polycarbonate enclosure. Front is clear, sides and rear ...

It's not the speed that kills you, it's the sudden stop.

As for the question regarding the belt, my Max has a height of 815mm, and the 5mm belt is fine with it, produces very accurate dimensions even after some 700 hours printing. I think it would be highly reliant on the mass of your end effector, that triple water cooled hot end can't be light is my ...

Just a thought for heating the filament inside a vacuum, how about a heat lamp, infrared radiation will pass easily through the vacuum and be absorbed by the filament/spool.

Where did you get the connector to attach the R134a hose to the pressure pot?

Just buy the machine out of pocket, and invoice your company for the parts they need and the extra service you provide! Maybe eventually you can recoup the cost of the machine and then some! This is what I do, but I started here after I had my V1. Why come you guys keep going smaller and not bigger ...

So I was trying to print DonaldLindsay's Mini High G Chanter , first attempt came out alright using my usual Cura settings, but not really usable, broken surface, etc.. The second OTH. [img]http://i.imgur.com/ev7mOpq.png[/img] I changed the Shell thickness from .5mm to 2mm since I'd had issues with ...

Usually retracts aren't much of an issue, but I usually print at 95% infill, but here with 20% infill the area where the hole was printed had some issues with the skin being broken. My bowden is only about 10" longer than the one that comes with the stock kit, so it doesn't amplify that bad. Yeah ...

Figured I'd post this. It's not complex, or really interesting, but it is 18" tall in one print. I ordered my Rostock with an extra 36 inches of height, but so far haven't used any of it, until last night. [img]http://i.imgur.com/WAuL6Li.png[/img] Printed at .2mm layer height, 20% infill, 230C, took ...

If you want to build taller, buy taller extrusions, belts and bowden tube like I did. 36" build height means never worrying about being too tall to print.