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One thing I also noticed when I've been using Slic3r is that it always puts a raft under the object, even I don't have the " raft box" checked.

Are you printing with a brim? Depending on the model, it could be easy to confuse the two...

PLA is finicky. I assume since you've got a Prusa that you'd know this, but I'll say it anyways. Make sure you have a fan pointed at the shaft of the hotend. Then get your temperature right. Too cold and your extruder skips. Too hot, same thing. The default steps/mm for the EZstruder are 92.4 ...

So I gave up and replaced the power supply. That fixed the problem.

No. I don't have a spare power supply and I'd prefer not to have to purchase one. I can't shake the feeling that the problem is related to a loose connection somewhere.

Curiouser and curiouser... My printer got to the point where every time I turned it on, it would flash on and back off again. So I methodically unplugged stuff. Turns out, if my LCD screen is unplugged, the power supply doesn't trip off. I'm still troubleshooting, but it seems to be printing fairly ...

It's hard to say. It runs for a while, and sometimes I can get full dry run prints out of it, but heating up the extruder shuts it down. Sometimes I'll click it on and it'll turn right off again. The more time I spend on it, the less consistent its behavior appears. But I've checked all of the ...

Update: I suspect my issue is the same as this: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2795, which is on the Rostock MAX portion of the forum.

My Rostock MAX is suddenly exhibiting very odd behaviour. In the middle of a print, it will shut off completely. I have to flip the switch (wired from the PSU) off and back on again in order to get it to activate. I'm running the prints off my SD card, but I hadn't changed anything before the ...

Good point. I come from a background of stringed instrument repair, for which a solid lap joint with some heat-shrink tubing is preferable and sufficient. That said, a 3D printer is not a guitar. Listen to Eaglez and Gene.

The resistor can easily be replaced. Just match the colored bands to make sure you have the same resistance. To my recollection, if you leave the resistor out, the bed will still heat up, but the LED won't light. If you can live with that, don't bother. For future reference, though, resistors don't ...

Or do what Gene said with a yellow wire instead of red.

Are you running your prints from SD card or Repetier Host? I know Repetier has a "Park" settings that moves the hotend to a specific position. I believe the default is (0,0,50). With your printer disconnected, just open up Printer Settings (Ctrl+P). Go to the printer tab and make sure the box that ...

Starting with a stock SeeMeCNC Hot End and resistors for the heating elements (not cartridges). . . Third: What we found is that a cooling fan is needed on the RAMBo board. The direct drive EZStruder requires more power to push the filament. What many people think is a "plug" is nothing more than ...

Eaglezsoar wrote: If you are an Amazon Prime member they have them for $2.19 each
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M8T2JG/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Those are the exact connectors I use. They're great.

Take it from me. If Steve's extruder is skipping, the EZstruder definitely will. It looks like you're printing PLA in the picture. Your hotend is probably jammed further up, and all you're getting out of it is ooze. When PLA gets goopy, it likes to do that. Sometimes a shorter retraction distance ...

So this took me a while. The problem ended up being the replacement PTFE tubing, which was (apparently) marginally too short, by about 1.5mm. The reason the issue did not manifest itself immediately upon replacement is that I originally set the tubing in the nozzle, seated all the way down. What ...

Is PLA all you have tried with it? If so try lowering your temp (random guess 10°C over the temp it first starts melting), PLA has a weird way of building resistance in the hotend at higher temps even if it's runny :roll: . I've tried everything from 170 to 195. Again, I have verified these ...

You may have a clog in your nozzle. Do you have a different one you can try? Also, take the hot end apart and inspect the PTFE sleeve. If you over-temped it at some point, it may have shrunk a bit and could be causing the binding you're experiencing. I've tried both of those, not only switching out ...

So I just "upgraded" to the EZStruder. Unfortunately, it skips like none other. I've checked and rechecked my wiring, my steps/mm, and everything else I could think of. I'm printing in PLA, which I'd heard that the EZStruder has trouble with. This seems a bit worse than "trouble," though, as I can't ...

Should I change my firmware (repetier) from the generic thermistor table to the 100K thermistor?

I use sublime text as my dev environment (both for work and for hobbies), and its search functions are great. It can find everything in a project or specified directories, use regex, etc. The demo version is unlimited and fully featured though, if I remember correctly, a little naggy.

If you get one, make sure and let us know how it works. My interest has been piqued.

edward wrote:I think the big new feature is the DELTA_RADIUS is in EEPROM.

Spot on.

I've had trouble with Slic3r not laying down a raft when I told it too. I fixed it by adding a brim. Which leads me to my suggestion. Make sure you've set your brim to zero. If it's high enough, it could look a lot like a raft. Just to clarify, a skirt is a line around the object, used to prime the ...

Tricklaser sells some cork liners that work pretty well, too.