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geneb wrote: ↑Mon May 11, 2020 8:36 am I'd contact support and see if they'll send you a replacement. Link to that photo above.

g.

They are sending replacements. Asked about that grease they send with them. $199 for 1.75lbs.

Thanks
Cory

So this morning started looking for the right arm. Not the arm, it's a couple of the aluminum ball ends. Funny thing is that I can't find any bad spots in it, and calipers don't show it being more the .001" bigger than the others. But this one is really tight compared to the others IMG_20200511 ...

Okay, I found it. After picking the wrong place to start(belt tension) I decided that the only thing it could be was the tight arms. I swapped the plastic balls in instead of the aluminum ones. Much much looser. The CF arms are from the previous build, the aluminum balls are new. I can't see any ...

geneb wrote: ↑Sat May 09, 2020 10:53 am Flip the glass upside down and run it again. Different results?

g.

I've tried it with and without the glass, same result. Also that backlash macro shows that it's not on the bed.

Thanks
Cory

First question is on belt tension again as I've had this problem with my V2 build, now its been upgraded to a V3.frankenstien. I had to have the belts extremely tight to solve it. I had actually cracked a skate at the belt clip. Should I be able to get enough tension by twisting the motor with a ...

Cory, take a peek at the 4th ed of the v2 build guide - I seem to recall putting something in there about a way to do belt tension that works pretty well. I'm busy with work right now, otherwise I'd give you a page#, sorry! g. I remember that now. Has a lot to do with how tight you have the belts ...

I would just want all three to be pretty close to the same frequency. Here is the problem. I've worked on machine tools most of my life. Most people run timing belts way too tight. Seen many people kill servo motors that way. I assume now I've been running them too lose, I have no ballpark to start ...

For belt tensioning, I had considered using a guitar tuner app om my phone, to adjust tension,,,,,, Just never got around to it. I'm planning on using a tuner app. Got an idea drawn up last night to try and grab the spacers on each side of the idler, kinda like a c clamp with a jack bolt on top of ...

Much better results. I replaced the skates and it really didn't help. I tightened the belts as tight as I could using long needle nosed pliers under the idler support pried against the frame. Again, I've been shooting in the dark on proper belt tension since 4 years ago when I built it. That made a ...

So I have some more information. Not sure that it helps with anything, but more information. I had ran a backlash routine before that dc42 had posted. But it was running in more in the center of the bed. I've been stuck thinking backlash was only in 'axis travel' and not somewhere else. That is ...

Any thought on the ULTIBOTS FSR KIT? At least I don't have to swap head, or lose much Z height.

The Maker713 metal frame would be missing parts for a V2 upgrade. Not sure that the V3 would be much better than the metal framed V2 anyway

Thanks
Cory

Hopefully someone will chime in. All the pictures I see show the e3d hotend completely below the ball mounts. And I really don't want to swap heads.

I ran across I monoprice iiip for sale cheap locally. Tiny, but prints way better

Hopefully someone will chime in. All the pictures I see show the e3d hotend completely below the ball mounts. And I really don't want to swap heads.

I ran across I monoprice iiip for sale cheap locally. Tiny, but prints way better

Does anyone know how the smart effector can be mounted? I see maker 713's adapter plate. But there are 3 holes in the smart effector that might line up and mount on the standoffs like the original hotends did.

I'll contact 713 again after Thanksgiving break about that.

Thanks
Cory

I'm not sure what the wire count is for the Smart Effector, but it shouldn't cost you any Z height. You might consider moving the electronics up top. That way you'd only have power & heated bed wires in the towers. g. Does the whole head hang below the ball joints? Part of the reason I keep ...

I had no idea you were using a mechanical probe! I have a vague (and I mean /really/ vague) memory of being told that micro switches can have a repeatability error of +/- 0.100mm. For some reason I thought you were using the Smart Effector, which has a strain gauge built into the PCB (that's what ...

Further thoughts: dc42 had stated that having the rods as close to horizontal as I did caused issues, which is why I tried longer rods. He also stated that it looked like backlash. I agree that it looks like backlash. But the issue there is that the machine feeds down quite a bit in Z each probe ...

Cory, does that pattern change if you rotate or flip the glass? Try turning it 90 degrees (make a mark on the glass edge so you can more easily track how you've rotated it) and see how that goes. I'm curious to see how (or if) the results change. I wish I could get my hands on your machine for an ...

To eliminate the issue of the arms being so horizontal at the bed edges I got the longer 340.5mm CF rods and gave them a try. No real improvement Screenshot_20191121_090445.png So a recap. New bearings, belts, pulleys, .9deg motors, carriages, glass bed, now longer rods. Giving up again unless ...

SoCalSteve wrote: ↑Tue Sep 03, 2019 5:00 pm Have you verified that your arm length is correct in the programming?

Many times
Thanks
Cory

geneb wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 8:47 am Thanks for the tip on the 8 factor calibration. It solved an issue I've had with a frankestein v3.2 I built.

g.

Good deal, glad someone learned something here.
Thanks for your input.
Cory

Replaced the idlers and bearings with new stock parts. Belts and pulleys with gates parts. Very slight improvement. Printed a delta calibration part and found the dimensions to be within reason. 60mm was dead on inline with the X tower, and about .2mm short inline with the y and z towers. As good as ...

Have you printed anything yet? Yes, just have first layer issues further out near the edges of the bed That's not going to make a difference in anything, really. g. Has anyone tried? I've seen industrial drives eat belts that way. I guess I'll order some new stock idlers and see if anything ...

36 tooth? For what? The only thing in the entire drive system that has teeth is the pulley mounted to the stepper motors. g. The 36 tooth 8s for the idlers that run belt teeth towards the idlers. Not sure how much difference it'll make, but I've disliked running the teeth on a smooth surface. Cory

If you're going to go with a 713 metal v3 frame, just email them and ask - I'd be surprised if the motor mounts were missing. You may also be over-probing. 357 points is kind of nuts. :) I think the recommended is something like 69 or 70. g. I think the v3 has plastic motor/tower ends. I emailed ...