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Anyone know where to go for calibration issues? I upgraded my v2 all the way to v3, but I use the e3d v6 hot end. I used their new whip to simplify my wiring. But when I run G29, my hotend goes down the proper distance, but then goes too far and hits the X tower, goes down to the bed, and continues ...

Anyone know where to go for calibration issues? I upgraded my v2 all the way to v3, but I use the e3d v6 hot end. I used their new whip to simplify my wiring. But when I run G29, my hotend goes down the proper distance, but then goes too far and hits the Z tower, goes down to the bed, and continues ...

Eaglezsoar was indeed the very first person who greeted me when I made my first post on this forum. He was a very kind and knowledgeable man & will be missed.

May he Rest in Peace.

I just followed your process and I'm getting the best first layer I've ever seen my V2 produce. I used the V3 option in the connfiguration.h. Only thing I had to change is the Z-MAX... Initially it was set at 385. This resulted in a probe followed by dragging across the bed to the X tower, and it ...

Anybody tried this stuff out yet? http://printm3d.com/3d-printer-filaments/tough-3d-ink

Dusted off my printer yesterday to run a print. I got one successful print off, but wasn't happy with the way the slicer (Matterslice) had rendered the top surface: The top wasn't connected to the sides as it should be. When I started the re-print with Slic3r, nozzle and bed came up to temp, axes ...

Jimustanguitar wrote:Click on the hamburger symbol that says "Quick Links" in the top left, then you'll see the new/unread/unanswered shortcuts that you're looking for.

It took me a minute, too.

Thank you.

I always tended to levitate towards the view that allowed me to see a complete list of topics containing unread posts. This allowed me to keep up to date on threads without having to dive down into each category and look for those with updates. The "view unread" link is gone but is there a similar ...

If you lightly sand the edges and apply some sealing primer such as Bin or another brand that contains shellac followed up by the color of your your choice you will no longer smell the edges and you can jazz up the look of the printer. After the build was complete I really haven't noticed the smell ...

davec3275 wrote:How could I have missed this thread? A fellow PA Rostock user. Welcome.

Thank you. Glad to know there are others in the area.

You'll have the option of building it either way, but the docs will only cover the version with all the electronics up top. :) As to calibration...well let's just say it's not gonna take that much work any more. ;) g. Hoping there will be an affordable retrofit kit for previous versions. I just got ...

I have a similar gauge from Harbor Freight. May I ask, what did you use for the mount?

Pictures of a sample print?

Just tried this and it definitely works... When starting up the bed from room temp the bed heat led is on solid until it gets close to operating temperature, and the bed heats up probably 30% faster. Even so, I like to leave the bed at temp for a minimum of 15 minutes before I do any calibration or ...

Did you use Permatex Ultra Copper High Temp RTV?

Gene, the blue wire was used for literally one day when we ran out of white and werent going to keep from shipping because of that.. no big deal, we got the white the next day so only a dozen or so kits have the blue instead of white. We did not change that on you, promise lol Cool! I've got a ...

Printed the peek shroud, now printing the layer fan. Fantastic prints! Especially compared to my DaVinci 2.0, which I've decided to donate to my son's school.

Resolved. Cold solder joint on the Rambo fan, wire was swinging around and shorting out. Thank goodness for fuses!

Now I've just got to play with the autotune and figure that out. Thanks for all the suggestions!

Got the fuse out. Am going to pick up a fuse holder and some quick blow 10Amp fuses and rig up a temporary fuse solution as I saw done in a similar thread.

As I understand it F2 runs motors and some other things. Could this be why I'm having trouble with overheating errors in auto tune?

Ok, so I've determined that Fuse F2 is blown. I got movement when I jumpered across it momentarily. Now, what is the best method to pull that fuse without breaking something else?

I believe the motors have at least some power. When I initially power up the machine I can freely move the arms as fast as I want. After I attempt a home towers they will still move freely, however moving them quickly causes the stepper motor to catch & I get resistance. It stays in that state until ...

Nope. Carriages are right in the middle of travel range. I tested the end stop switches per the guide and they are functioning correctly..

Just finished my build. Was working through the beginning testing/calibration steps but none of my steppers will move. Tried very first ever home towers from the panel and again from MatterControl but zero movement. Extruder motor will not move either. Tested bed and hotend heat successfully ...

I received my kit within a few days of your original post so it is possible that ours are from the same batch. I encountered the same problem with the base fan screws and the PSU mount screws. Haven't mounted the bed just yet but may pick up some 7/8" screws to avoid the frustration. Thank you for ...

Sadly, my kit is still waiting to be built... I did do the "gluing of the hotend ceremony" yesterday to kick things off. Hoping to dive in and get this thing built soon! Question: Does the burnt wood smell eventually go away on its own? I'm not planning on doing any paint or sealant work, but I know ...