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I plan to do the following: 1. place the duet and due panel on top 2. I'm using a dauderdruckerplatte that weighing in at + 1kg. so I think FSR is out off the question, so I go for David Crockers IR probe So I end up with power cables to motors, controller etc up in to legs, and 4 cables for SSR and ...

Mounting the steppers up top - if you place the controller up top too - you have a long run for the heated bed and thermistor (heavy cabling too) down to the bottom. That to me is a primary consideration as this heavy wire is harder to conceal and you should keep the length as short as possible ...

I'm also working on a MAX Metall build, this thread have been very useful to find out how I will build it. After a lot of reading I have desided to turn the frame upside down, to get all the steppers at the top end. The reason is cable logistics, far fewer cables to route inside the vertigal members ...

Finally almost all the parts have arrived.

The MAX Metall frame have an awesome finish. The only small hickup is that I have only metric tools... So I have to ait until the tool shop opens up on saturday......

I posted this http://repables.com/r/728 on Repables. It's a reworked mount where I added fan mount an IR probe mount.

While I'm waiting for the MAXmetall frame, I have been busy reading on this forum. There are a lot of usefull tips. This build will be running on 24v I will use 0.9 degree/step steppers Bondtech extruder in the mail I will also use quite a few parts from SeeMeCNC. I have an 24v 31A PSU for this one ...

I just orderet a Bondtech. Realy not a hard choice to take, after reading about it in this forum.


Now the waiting game on the metall frame begins....

After quite few experiments on my rostock MAX v2, resulting in a pile of expensive very high end parts. I desided to keep my very well working Rostock MAXv2 tobe almost "stock", I also need to have an working printer. So I will be buliding av higly customissed Rostock MAX based on the following ...

Has anyone used the combination of the duet 0.8.5 and e3d's PT100 amplifier board ?

Now I have reconfigured my powersupply setup and done a test run with the glassbed PEI combo most of us use. I used my lab PSU to power only the heatbed circut on the RAMBO. I set Cirrent limit to 14.95A and let it run free on voltage. First I set it to 100C wich it reached much faster than stock ...

I have several variantion of PEI bed's I can use. I have the orginila glass plate with an 0.8mm pei sheet attached to it. it's possible to print at a setting of 85C, but if you go a little hihger to 90C you get a more stable adhesion to the PEI sheet. I also found that the PEI is an pretty good ...

I plan to use an 320w lab psu where I can Limit the current and Voltage. I plan to take this in stages just to se what I need before I order a new PSU. When I reach this higher temp on my print bed I will also go back and test the PEI tape I have, it's have the same carracteristics as the ...

Alternative to my last post. Is it possible to feed an alternativ voltage to the heatbed power connector, and 12v to the rest of the RAMBo ? After reading a lot about heating isues, I think I will try du connect an adjustable lab PSU to find out how much I have to ramp up the voltage to the onyx to ...

I also have a little of this in my prints, have only been printing ABS with high heat.

After reading this thread, I wonder if this can be fixed with an UPS with filtering, or is it down to aPSU with little filtering after the switcing action ?

One thing I had to change from installing the original Rostock MAX v2 version to the 0.92.8 version is that you need to have the latest arduino IDE with the latest lib's installed. then I vent on configuratet the firmware with the configartion tool on repetiers site. thenit compiled without problems.

Yes, thats correct, on my glass plates with attached PEI, it works at 85C.

So to get this Dauerdruckerplatte to work I ordered a 300mm dia 500w 220VAC silicon heater. I think I can controll this thru a SSD relay.

Update on the Dauerdruckplatte: I got one of these plates, 8mm thick, and tried to print at 90C. The result was like water on teflon. Afte an email to the germans asking about the working temperature for this plate, they answered that I need to reasch 130 - 135C to get it to work. The next question ...

My PEI coated Alu plate has arrived, soon printing time...

Yes, it do use the configuration.h

There is some new options as far as I have noticed. But I turned up the frequens on the signals to the stepper motors, then the noise level from the printer dropped a little.

Hi

I have been running on this version for a few weeks. This version also made the stepper noise level a little lower

I just ordered one of these https://estore-sslserver.eu/clever3d.de ... -DeltaOnyx

Hi here is a picture of my Rostock MAX v2 working on a prototype for a 100w LED diving torch
Sorry for a blured image, z5 phone.....

I have just done this, and also thrown in the PT100 upgrade kit from E3D so I got a far better reading of the temperature on the hotend. One thing you should do is to make a new nargile from the top to the effektor assembly, where you route the bowden tube alongside the cables, then they won't ...

I can start with what I had to do and parts involved.

Aftyer quite a few prints, big and small. The thermocouple and E3D v6 hotend works very well. I a did'nt do much more than set up the repetier with the correct settings and instal it on the printer. Now I just have to read about ways to fine tune the RAMBo and the printer, I think most of this work ...