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Just had the same experience with my Duet 0.8.5 Turns out you have to upgrade the firmware in a specific order to make it work. I had to hold the erase button on the duet, then the reset to get it to show up on USB so i could flash an old firmware to start over. If you try this be warned you need to ...

Either there or on the extruder. If you retract the filament 50-100mm then see if there is any movement when you push or pull on the bowden at each fitting. the small metal ring that bites into the end of the plastic tube tends to chew up the tube after a while and needs to be re-fixed. If there is ...

Those look like the angular pillars caused by retracts.
I would suggest checking the bowden tube has not worked loose.

Which one are you referring to as the barrel fan? I've had to replace the cooling fan on my Rambo mount as it failed a few months after assembly. Check the blades are free to turn and use a meter to confirm voltage on the connections. If it's free and has power then it's likely dead and will have to ...

Thanks DC, ill try that as soon as i get more time off work.

Hotend usually pauses at the beginning of the print of the bed or hotend temps are not close enough to what is set in the print. If the hotend is at say 230c and the print calls for 235c it will wait while heating the hotend. MIght be worht double checking the temp on the prints vs what you're ...

Hi Folks, I've been printing for a while on my V2 and its been OK, not great, but OK, however now its worse. So i'm looking for some ideas on what's causing the issue. The auto calibration has been giving a steady 0.8 (+-0.1) since i fitted the FSRs I want to get this down to 0.5 at least, ideally 0 ...

That would likely be brand dependent. If its the usual Graphite & PLA mix it will electro-plate, but it's not easy. The high resistance and coarse surface mean that you really need to work on preperation before it will give a good result. With my parts i used 2-3 coats of Acetone& Graphite soloution ...

The Onyx i have was bowed on delivery. I just assembled with it regardless; given the design of the board and its manufacturing its very likely to be bowed at least a bit. I haven't had an issue with it though, the glass plate is flat and as other have pointed out is much stronger than the Onyx is.

It does open up interesting possibilities for electro plating without the need to paint the object first.
I currently use an acetone & graphite mix to create a conductive layer but this does of course lose some detail.

I'm using FSR (Thanks to mhackney and his awesome blog) with a 0.8mm PEI sheet. There has been no issue regarding heat so far. Tested up to 260c on the head and 110c on the bed without issue. The only slight downside is the small trace of plastic from the nozzle touching the bed at each point; if ...

I used Silicone wire on my V2 build as it's designed for high current very high temperature usage. Easy to get from model shops as its used on almost all high load electric motors (cars, multi-copters etc). Easy to solder and very flexible, comes in a good selection of gauges too.

Should also point out that laser cutting is not an option in delta format either. You could go with something like a Blu-Ray laser mounted to the effector, but any hope of full on laser cutting requires a fixed laser to target the machining head using mirrors - there isn't a viable mechanism to do ...

Thanks mhackney Soapbox is entirely justified, i have run into the deficiencies of using Atmel processors on previous projects far less complicated than this. I've dropped my testing back to just the G31 command for now, it seems the root issue is that the z-probe does not trigger. Depending on the ...

Just to reassure you, I'm running an early rambo, V1.1 I think from the indiegogo campaign with the older seemecnc repetier firmware (091) and the little adapter FSR board everyone uses. This works great with openDACT. Thank you for the reassurance, but would you mind sharing how you got it to work ...

Hi Folks, I've been trying for a week to get the Ultibots FSR kit working on my max. To date i've almost bricked the rambo, nearly broken the build plate and had a darn good stab at breaking the arms of the Z axis. I have high hopes that somone here will be able to assist in getting the FSR to ...

Excellent guides, those are exacylty what i need. Thanks!

I'll have a play with the layer thickness and extrusion. It wasnt doing this all all originally; but it does stick perfectly to the bed right now.

I have mine connected using Deans-T connectors for the Hotend and Mini-T for the thermisistor. XT-60 are a little overkill, bulkier but easier to use than the Deans. I think when i require mine ill be using gold bullet connectors, 1.5mm for the Them and 3mm for the hot end. they're much lower ...

Hi Folks, Finally got the time to finish my Max v2; completely standard build except for an EVGA 500W PSU and some heavy gauge silicone wires for the Bed. Really liking this printer so far but have found calibration to be somewhat painful. Kept running out of adjustment on the 10mm end stop screws ...