Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I sent 713 maker an email the other day about this. Haven't herd back from them. The Areo looks promising and I like the fact that I can modify it pretty easy to set up water cooling. My question is how will the stepper motor perform in an heated enclosure around 70c? I wonder if that should be ...

ramai wrote:I have never seen the springs. Great idea! My bands have worn out on most of my rods.

http://www.tricklaser.com/Carbon-Fiber- ... -BC300.htm

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2303176

I am prob going to water cool my e3d soon. I think it can fit right?

I was thinking that since the end is metal it could always be heated to blow hot air instead of cold air on the part. If you needed more air flow but don't want it so cold you get warping. I'm using a heated enclosure which will be temp controlled so I prob won't need to use that idea if I just pull ...

Let's say if I wanted to make a bigger printer using the same effector plate and carriages as a Rostock max while making longer arms and a bigger frame. How wide could I get my print area before I run into problems? Reason is aftermarket parts from say tricklaser and others are good to work with ...

Round 2 over a year later Green ABS! Hot end 230c Bed 98c Speed Loops 10mm/s Solid 14mm/s Sparse 30mm/s Infill 33.3% Extrusion width .44 Infill extrusion width .44 Seam hiding 1.0 Jitter 175 Wipe/destring on Loops 3 Stacked sparse 1 4 prime/4 suck/5 wipe Speed 55 Min jump 1.5 Trigger 5 Min layers 25 ...

Does anyone have the max working with the smoothieboard yet? I don't know much like if our current software will run with a few setting changes.

I still have the old Rambo with 1/8th stepping so I need this upgrade soon.

What about printing nylon on this surface? I ask because I may just do this without the glass and stick it on my aluminum bed.

It would be nice if you can find the file but don't spend a lot of time searching if you are not sure where it is. The one that you are using looks good and has already been tested by yourself, that's why I asked. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1704 And a direct link to the files ...

"This is a must have upgrade for your machine. Geared motor and really grabs the abs. Very accurate!" Did you get the plastic portion from Thingiverse and if so do you remember the number? I don't think I got it off of thingverse. I believe I have the file on my computer if you need it though.

thenewguy, great job on the printer. Looks fantastic and also seems to work great. I'm confused though: Why choose peltier elements for heating? How are you even getting 100C from them? Seems like a 110V coil wire would be much more efficient then the peltier elements, no? The peltier elements ...

Update

So I thought I would give you a good update. I have taken this thing apart so many times with constant upgrades I don't get to many chances to print. But I do finally have it working close to how I want it. I do still have to install the Arduino controlled glass window. Other than that
Enjoy.

Black abs
Kiss
.1 layers

Any ideas to fine tune this? It seems like the diameter of the trimmer line is keeping the print from better results.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56127

Abs 2mm layers

If you shorted the thermistor input on the board your host will read like -20. If so you can change to one of the other 2 inputs. However to get host to read the correct imput you have to go to pins h in arduino. Someone posted how this was done before on the forums. I have done it but don't know ...

.2 layer height I had good prints. But settings were way diff like .42 width. People keep saying .45 though. But I made a lot of changes like longer beams printed a new effector and a few other small upgrades. Now I'm getting oval prints on my nickel cal print. I fear my new beams could be warped ...

I'm using an e3d and a .4 nozzle size and need some help with my settings in kiss. This is what I'm trying to use with a layer thickness of .1 I think I'm close but not sure about skin thickness? Extrusion width .45 Infill extrusion width .45 Layer thickness .1 Skin thickness 1.3 Loops 3 Stacked ...

Got it. : ) Does anyone know how to get rid of all the little bumps when it starts the layers. I use kiss and not 100% sure with how the settings affect my prints.

I have been away from my printer to try it again. I'm going to try round two Sunday afternoon. So post your results guys!

My lady will need a bath for sure when I'm done with her. Haha

I use the identical jar you have used (Walmart) except I put a rubber silicon bead around it to keep in the vapor much longer. Sounds good to me! I need to find some round glass that will fit inside for a flat surface. Also need to rig something up to lift the platform out when I'm done... Hmmmmm I ...

Flateric wrote:I use the identical jar you have used (Walmart) except I put a rubber silicon bead around it to keep in the vapor much longer.

Sounds good to me! I need to find some round glass that will fit inside for a flat surface. Also need to rig something up to lift the platform out when I'm done... Hmmmmm

Eaglezsoar wrote:

thenewguy wrote:I did use the jb weld quick which is only rated to like 250f. I did everything in the loctite gel super glue this time. Tried snapping the balls in my hand. I think we got a winner!

How long did you leave everything sit before trying to snap the balls?

around 8 hours

How long did you leave it in there? What bed temp? g. 2 hours at 110 with very little acetone. (Was my first time) When I bumped it up to 115 with a few table spoons of acetone it really kicked in. I think I had to heat up the glass jar a bit more. Which is why I did the 5c bump. The key is to have ...