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Ok guys i fried my firmware and the only thing that was working for me was this branch https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX with some minor tweaks i used the jerk and horizontal radius settings from the newest rostock repetier and it did some wonders on X/Y accuraccy but i got really ...

I just updated to the newest firmware and my FSRs dont work anymore it just spams the Accelerometer error all the way
<-accelerometer i2c recv error.
any way i can use my fsrs with this build or is this not doable?

E3d's have a tendency to jam with much more than 2mm of retract. The problem with very high retract rates is you tend to miss steps usually on the prime portion of the move. There usually isn't a big win at much over 30mm/s unless you have a very long retract, the E3D in particular stops stringing ...

this actually looks quite easy to build:)

626Pilot wrote:What slicer is this?

This is the Mattercontrol Inbuilt slicer

Eaglezsoar wrote:Thanks for posting the videos. I enjoyed watching them.
Great job!

thank you for your kind feedback and providing us the possibility of Building our own 3d Printer

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYyuo7gm-aQ[/youtube]
ftfy

My friends and I did an unpacking video also a timelapse where we build the Rostock MAX V2 i hope you enjoy
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltv7YmatSsw[/youtube]

Build Timelapse:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om_EKNKkXuI[/youtube]

den v2 hätte ich selber wenn wäre ich nur an dem metall kit interessiert muss mich aber erstmal absprechen wie das finanzielle dazu aussieht:>

bin leider aus ösiland aber den max metal hätte ich schon gerne kann man das frame einfach mit dem melanim austauschen?

KAS wrote:The printing height is reduced by having longer arms although not sure what the true volume is.

i have lost around 1 cm but i installed both FSR mounts and the Arms at the same time my guess would be that you may loose about 50mm

Sonrisa3D wrote:EEPROM>X, Y, Z Max Pos - Increase a mm or two.

Also relevant:
http://www.matterhackers.com/articles/i ... ontrol-1.4

where have you been a month ago xD

Eaglezsoar wrote:I am replying to this message because it has never received an answer.
Perhaps someone can provide an answer?

wow this shit is old mattercontrol P**** of S*****
just use fsr's it saves 20139812093810238 hours of valuable time

Is that for me or bot? Would I be better off taping a thermocouple from my DMM to the bed instead or using something else instead of the IR thermometer? its for both my ir thermometer is 1 degree precise but ir is problematic with the black onyx board and the glass plate since its reflecting the ...

my ir thermometer reads 10° more than the thermistor
where do you have your calculations from?

Great job guys, Until this program, I have used to manually calibrate printer with just XYZ offsets which took me 3-4 hours for each calibration. Now, job is done automatically in less then hour. Here is mine full calibration video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ1uTnZpUzM I have designed and ...

wow that a printer controller has soooo much quality improvements:O

I have about 120 hours on the new ball cup arms and carriages and they've been flawless. The machine was printing so nicely with that upgrade that I was hesitant to install my new aluminum mount. I did install the mount and did a short 90 minute print tonight and it's still printing beautifully! I ...

i bought one of the 50 first packs they are very good but a spring snapped due to my stupidity the bearings move way smoother and i can now print much better on the edges of the plattform 12/10 would buy again for 20$ with a coupon

Nath5 wrote:Will these fit a e3d v6 lite?

the e3d is exactly the same but with a heatbreak made out of metal and a different thermistor

verz nice and clean build i really love the lights and the cold end
also very good quality on your print:)

well after i got my fsr setup i cant get it to calibrate properly its about 0.2 mm off and i have not a single idea how to fix it:(

i got a new glass and im currently trying to calibrate with the fsrs but its off by 0.2 mms and the opendact tool cant seem to fix it anyone got some tipps?

mhackney wrote:The FSR setup looks good. I responded to your other post in my thread but it looks like you got it.

nice thats good to hear i just broke my borosilicate glass plate and i wont be able to print until maybe tuesday its a test to my patience:Y

Sorry I missed all this! Not sure how. Since you figured it out I guess it's ok! The most important thing on printing the FSR holders is to go slow. 25mm/s or less and print from inside out to get the best exterior finish. Other than that, 3 perimeters and shells and 50% fill of some sort is fine ...