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After a few months of inactivity I fired up my Rostock Max V2. I never really fine tuned it so I was hoping to get some feedback. What kind of bothers me more than anything is the print time. Should this take 2 hours to print? I'm using MatterControl to slice. I set it to .3mm thickness and 10 ...

So either the slicer is generating bad gcode or the machine is executing it incorrectly. Try downloading a different slicing program and use it to create a new gcode file. KISSlicer is one that I like. If the printer behaves as it should for speeds and temperatures using code produced by a ...

Here is what I do for a new material. go to advance settings >settings tab>click the pencil icon next to the material drop down selection> click edit on one of the presets that closely matches what your after> at the bottom click "Duplicate"> at the top give it a name(one that lets you know what ...

Objects like this are good tests of bridging. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:325658 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:593626 Haven't looked in a while, I've been designing my own calibration pieces when I need them. Neat thanks! What software are you using? I see in the description to put these ...

geneb wrote:You don't. You properly configure the slicer you're using.

g.

I'm changing the temperature in the Filament-filament settings to 180/60. When I plug in the SD card and choose the file it defaults to 220/80. Not sure why.

; Date 10/18/2015 00:00:00 Time 11:59 ; avoidCrossingPerimeters = True ; outsidePerimetersFirst = False ; bottomClipAmount = 0 ; centerObjectInXy = True ; continuousSpiralOuterPerimeter = False ; doCoolHeadLift = False ; endCode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nM140 S0\nG91\nG1 Z10 E-5.0 F12000 ...

Hi, I am setting the temperature of the bed and nozzle in MatterControl and exporting these settings to my SD card. However, when I put in the card and select the print, the printer defaults to 220/80 instead of what I chose from my computer. Is the simply unable to read these settings from the SD ...

Hi all, I'm looking to do some bridge torture tests, as I have realized my printer is pretty bad with handling bridges. Everyone seems to say to tweak the speed, fan speed, and temperature when the printer is bridging. However, I am using MatterControl and the only bridge setting I see that I can ...

Hi, I was curious if I put multiple .stl files into one print, is there a way to have the printer print out each piece fully one at a time? Or does it have to lay down each layer for every object simultaneously? It would be nice to leave it on overnight printing multiple parts one at a time without ...

1. Print lots with a filament that has a spool. 2. Load the spool with your new filament. 3. Profit. Haha fair enough! It'll be awhile though; I got a sample spool from PushPlastic so I have 5 loose filament strands. Even after all the Death Stars and Star Destroyers, I still haven't gone through ...

Funny enough my dad bought a small spool of BeeVeryCreative filament instead of Hatchbox so I can't even comment on it. Never heard of this weird brand; he got it because it shipped free to our Wal-mart. It seems okay. I'm still learning how to print effectively so I can't really comment on it's ...

Hey guys,
Any preferences on a file for a loose filament spool? Ordered a bunch of filament without realizing it didn't come with a spool. I'm browsing through Thingiverse now to find something good; it's like looking at delicious food in a buffet.

It all depends on how you feel about it... The new carriages are lighter, easier to assemble, have a lower parts count, and don't require any periodic adjustments. Plus they just look cool, and that's most of the placebo. The original carriages are probably sturdier, can be adjusted to taste, and ...

What is everyone's take on this? I assembled my printer a few months back and it seems to be working fine. Is it not worth spending money on since my printer is working or will it save me in the future from having to readjust those wheels?

Airvent wrote:It turns out I had the end stop wires for Y and Z swapped around. All fixed!

Haha I had this exact same problem when I built mine a few months back! Weird huh? You meticulously follow every step and then randomly make an important mistake here.

Hey thanks for the information! Didn't realize there was a separate forum just for filament. Well I'll test out this cheaper stuff, but honestly since I live in Lake Forest anyways I'll probably go to MatterHackers and buy from them directly.

Hi all, Since I've tested out ABS and PLA PRO that I got from Matterhackers in Lake Forest, I'm curious as to why 3rd party filaments such as Hatchbox are much cheaper on average. I also noticed that some have much cheaper (but less cost efficient) 333g spools which are ideal for me, since I don't ...

In the end it simply turns out that I overlooked the fact that the filament feeds through a hole in the top rather than looping around the side. The angle it was coming in at kept forcing the red lever to snap off pieces as it was fed through. I've corrected the problem (and even added a funnel for ...

I managed to un-jam it by unscrewing the plastic housing attached to the motor. It looks almost as if the filament melted together and balled up, stopping it from being fed down the tube. Or maybe it just got crushed together by that spinning gear with those small teeth that is supposed to move it ...

Mac The Knife wrote:are you printing with PLA?

Yes! Silver PLA PRO. Come to think of it, my ABS didn't have this happen when it did its prints.

The filament feeding motor seems to be jammed with filament. My extruder wasn't spitting out any filament midway through a print so I paused it and tried yanking out the filament from the top and bottom. I figure I can use some kinda rigid metal rod and hammer out whatever's in there. This has ...

So, a couple of things. Most of these are true for swapping out filament in general, and I wish I knew them when I first started out. Firstly, never yank out filament when the hot end is at printing temperature. You'll leave a string of filament that will interfere with the new filament you stick ...

Hi guys, I just bought PLA PRO plastic to try out since I've only ever printed with the ABS I used for my fan shrouds. Anything I should know before swapping them out and printed? From what I've read: heat up the nozzle to remove the ABS then insert PLA and extrude a bit. Wipe the gluestick off the ...

Actually, getting a printable surface out of SCENE is all but impossible. We have been using one for a few years now, and there is quite the involved process to make a printable file. Go get Cloud Compare. This is free software for processing lidar scans data. You can load and register the raw FLS ...

Oooo neat stuff. Thanks!