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That is awesome, always wondered why no one had gone this route before. Well done.

go here: https://www.3dhubs.com/helena/hubs/3dog-modeling

pick the plastic you want it made out of( I also do PETG Black,Blue,Red and Green same price as ABS) and upload the file, I'll give you a discount on the object, like 20%....

I have a DRQ-250 that I fly FPV. I also have a Blade 350QX-v2, a Brocopter Y3 (3D printed), Blade 150qx which is also FPV, and I'm in the process of printing and building a DJI Inspired V3... I haven't flown much as of lately, been really into the 3d printing and life changes! If you have any ...

ok you got me there...I laughed outloud!

I like it! Nice design Khalid.

My petg settings; 240C Perimeters 50mm/s external perimeters 45mm/s infill 55mm/s bridges 60mm/s first layer 30mm/s retraction 2mm at 20mm/s Longest print with these settings so far is 19 hours, no issues, some strings, but it's petg, it's going to string. Thanks barry! Retraction is the toughest ...

Jimustanguitar wrote:

Windshadow wrote:strange color there Jim....did you bleach the ingredients ?

It looks that way because there's no yellow lake 5 in it

It's actually radioactive cheese.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/SdXRvxh.jpg[/img]

LOVE IT!

Another, thing could be that you are applying too much Layer cooling and cooling the nozzle to the point that it clogs/unclogs/clogs/unclogs... I saw this on mine when I used the stock Layer cooling fan mount and my new E3D...the stock layer fan mount point at the nozzle too much and over cools it ...

I use S3D for my slicer, not sure how its wipe function works...so I guess I best find that out. Thanks for the advice on the retract settings though!

So I know this thread is a bit old, but I just started using PETG and it is a very finicky beast at best. Prints great at higher speeds, very shiny, strong, extreme layer adhesion, no smell, BUT it oozes something fierce, strings, and at slow speeds gets very..."sparkly/textured". I have had it clog ...

I think the delaminating between layers is a matter of actually building a heated enclosure. I would disagree on that... I don't think you are printing your ABS hot enough, it appears that you may be having extrusion jams/slows that cause gaps or too little material being extruded. This can also be ...

Let's see, Protopasta has HT-PLA which when annealed should reject more heat. You could also use duct tape (Not duck, but the aluminized stuff) to cover the top surface. Personally, I like the Berd air as a concept (But I still have to nail down a good mount for it), as it's all aluminum. I like ...

That is one of the problems with this equipment, it gets to be very expensive. It would help if there was a capable firmware that fits the Rambo. There are still no newer "official" (read SeeMe) firmwares available. Does a auto calibration take so much memory that it cannot be fitted into a rambo ...

I printed this design, I really like it but with my e3d v6 it is too close to the heater block and it started to droop/melt. I even printed it in ABS....may have to try it in Nylon or something higher temp...

geneb wrote: I do not understand this obsession with high bed temperatures while printing abs. I've never needed more than 80c myself. *shrugs*
g.

right there with you gene 80c is good for me!!!

Meh, small potatoes. No different than pulling models off Thingiverse and sending it to community printing services like 3DHubs. Unfortunately Ryan Simms hasn't put a lot of thought or effort by restricting his personnel information. A quick whois and a few name searching in newtown provides a ...

I had exactly the same thing happen to my part fan wires this weekend, I only had one of them break. I re-soldered and as you are doing hot glued the wires to the fan housing to reduce stress.

I respectfully disagree jim... My 2 cents is that social medial does more to muddy the waters of communication than improve said communication.

Not yet. I have all the parts I need (PEI & tape), just need to carve out time to actually lay it down on the print bed. Just like I need to upgrade my hotend to the E3Dv6 I have sitting around too. Just did completed your "to do" list on my own printer. I would love to say that PEI solved every ...

On a side note anyone see this open sourced E3D printer? http://bigbox-3d.com/ People have early units and feedback seems positive, there are a number of things I like in the design, I just wish they'd copied the independent heads of the BCN3D for dual extrusion, but I don't believe any of the ...

if you use the stock hot end the original of that one is here http://repables.com/r/444/ [img]http://repables.com/images/gallery/a7aeed74714116f3b292a982238f83d2_e287cd6d8a6cdb26d18063d9d1f747c6_thumb.jpg[/img] designed by jj the invaluable tech desk and help person at SeeMeCNC I think this is the ...

Oh and there is a really nice little bowden tube clip that helps prevent fail 2 from happening...

http://repables.com/r/635/

I've been using them for over a year with no bowden tube failures.

thedoble

Great idea with the smoke detector! Does it ever have false alarms?

That looks amazing! Nice job.

so Fabio, where did all this land...???