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So, I finally have the answer to all my woes, and it wasn't what I thought at all. After more fiddling with the firmware, testing for a failing step driver, testing for a failing motor and just generally waisting my time getting nowhere I noticed a very interesting comment on the repetier site ...

Anyway, to report back on my efforts, reverting the firmware nearly completely removed the effect. I've discovered in my searches that mis steps in one direction can be an issue of motor timing so perhaps they made changes to the code in this area. There is an variable in the firmware to adjust the ...

It's possible that the belt is messed up just near the bottom and as you move up you're moving to a better area of the belt. So if you have a part with equal material all the way up (like an open box) it just keeps moving to one side? Hot hot are the stepper driver chips, too hot to touch? Imagine ...

It seems that layers with more material produce a greater shift, which makes sense as the longer it runs the more chance there is of missing a step. The really odd thing is it's doing it consistently in the same direction. I turned up the current and lost the "jaggies" i.e. obvious signs of a ...

It seems that layers with more material produce a greater shift, which makes sense as the longer it runs the more chance there is of missing a step. The really odd thing is it's doing it consistently in the same direction. I turned up the current and lost the "jaggies" i.e. obvious signs of a missed ...

Actually, it is loosing steps consistently in one direction!! I tried printing again a calibration part and its very clear that there is little shifts in 1 direction.

[img]http://s23.postimg.org/mu01mcrkb/IMG_0002.jpg[/img]

I have no idea why its so sensitive compared to before.

Well, I tried loosening the cheapskates as much as possible + loosening the belts a hair to give a little more flex and it seems to of helped as there is no sudden "jumps" on layers signifying lost steps, but I have an odd issue where prints skew as they move up. Walls which should be straight up ...

So, I have an older model Rostock Max and thought it was time to upgrade some components on the printer and... it completely borked everything. I've faced missed steps before when I was printing too fast on the printer, but even printing slow I'm loosing steps now. The issue Im having is I made ...

It's not my version, but looking at their code its exactly the same change (remove the _rev). Truthfully, most of the forks are all the same with some minor configuration changes to make it compatible with a specific hardware (basically telling it where the pins are, how big the link arms are, how ...

I don't know if your using my version of repetier or what but I'll reverse the direction later on it. The code to reverse it is in the uiconfig.h file. If you jump to around line 320 you'll see a section like below void ui_check_keys(int &action) { #if UI_HAS_KEYS!=0 UI_KEYS_CLICKENCODER_LOW_REV(76 ...

Just to make sure, you know there are 2 different repetiers right? One is called repetier-host which is what you use on your computer to talk to the printer and the second repetier, the one with the pde file, is a firmware you can upload onto the printer.

It's worth noting that my build has the LCD and SD card disabled because with it enabled I had issues with the initialization code not always correctly setting the pins as inputs/outputs, or rather I think the LCD initialization code was causing issues after the fact. I honestly haven't looked at ...

- Uploading a file to the SD card doesn't work. Instead, the printer starts printing from the host software (with Marlin, it works). - Somebody reported aborted prints. This happened to me twice now. Once after about 3 and once after about 5 hours, the printer reported idle and repetier host also ...

Ok, thanks for clarification and the input with the not working ramboLCD version. Still gona try this first. Unfortunately, I edited the working rambo-without-LCD version with Arduino 1.0.1. This changed marlin.pde to marlin.ino which unfortunately is not backward compatible. I made a version of ...

Eaglezsoar wrote:Did you get the LCD to work and if so is there anything special that needs to be done?
Which version of Repetier and possibly a link to it? Thanks!

He probably means the one I posted earlier here

I see. I guess I got confused because the SPI pins double as regular digital I/O pins (which I'm finding out basically all pins can do) and thought that that was all they were and were just favored by the firmware. This idea actually spun out of my original idea where the B1,B2,B4,B6 wires bypass ...

I was looking at it and it seems to me that if I change the MISO, SCK, SS and MOSI to PJ7, PD4, PE7 and PE6 respectively in the firmware, I could wire the LCD to board much more easily all through EXT2. Okay, it would actually require changing a fair amount of pin definitions, but most of the pins ...

That is exactly what happened to me and I was extremely confused for a while. First, the smart connector isn't for the RAMBo so it's useless and the headers were probably supposed to be female instead of male so they too are useless. The quickest fix you can do is to buy a 20 position ribbon cable ...

I was able to fix the LCD by mapping out the extra pins in the fastio.h file and modifying the pins_arduino.h file as outlined in http://www.reprap.org/wiki/RamboLCD I put the firmware up at https://github.com/Halopend/Repetier-Firmware/tree/development You can download the modified pin mappings for ...

I forgot I had kapton tape on order. That'll make easy enough work of the thermistor, I'll just have to be patient enough to wait for it to arrive. To make sure I don't melt another liner or detroy the peek I'll just run a test without either attached running the temp up till it melts any PTFE I ...

I'd agree the exact bed temperature isn't important and I can see why it be off given how far the thermistor is off to the side, but the hot end one was stuck in a tiny hole right by the heat source. When I installed it I put my focus on insulating it rather than making good contact cause the leads ...

My hot end temperature reading is way off as it keeps melting the PTFE liner. Room temperature reads fine but at operating temperature it must be off as it melted the liner even when I set the temperature to 235 C and it spiked at 242 C during the initial overshoot (PID adjustments were disabled ...