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I've been unsuccessful in finding a good petri dish on Amazon to use with my Droplit. Most of them have inconsistent sizes or weird blobs on the bottom. Which petri dishes have you found and have had successful prints on? Any links would help, thank you!

I had the same problem. You need to click the Auto Calc button in your slicing profile and then Apply Changes.

I just completed my first print. Looks like i've still got a long way to go! Any suggestions on how to fix these artifacts? Or at least pinpointing the problem, I think it is either z-wobble or undercuring. Thanks!
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Kshv7Wc.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/T1iXVl7.jpg[/img]

I didn't have any problems sticking. Make sure to set Z=0 so the dumbbell is touching your build surface. Also make sure it is clean. Your video timing does look a bit odd. Can you post your slicer configuration for us to look at? Hey mhackney, I just checked my thread on buildyourownsla and I saw ...

I tried to print a cylinder and I got about 5 layer printed, then nothing was building on to the print after that. Then I tried to print a marvin and only the first layer of the feet printed. After I stopped the print and looked at the build plate, it looked as if the first layer had slipped across ...

Yes you could just change the wire order, that works fine. Thanks again, the motor is going in the right direction now! I'm doing some dry tests by focusing on a piece of paper and running the print, but it seems like the the Droplit and my projector aren't in synch. Like the projector flashes a ...

mhackney wrote:Yes you could just change the wire order, that works fine.

Thanks I'll try today, and probably try my first print tonight!

I'll have a working Droplit if I can reverse the direction of the stepper motor, it goes the wrong way. Could I just switch the order of the wires?

Did you get the hex file out of the zip package I posted in my DropLit build thread several days ago? As for that anti-backlash nut, I noticed this too. In practice, backlash is not a problem since the build surface is always pushed into the vat to flash a new layer. The withdrawal simply needs to ...

mhackney, I removed the jumper that was making the z move the wrong distance. I think its moving the right distance now, thanks. I tried to flash the board with the grbl.hex.txt file you uploaded. I changed it to a hex file instead of a txt file, it would upload, but the machine wouldn't move, so I ...

I posted my firmware for the grbl and config in my droplit build thread. You should be able to upload it and as long as you connect things the same as mine, it will work. Thank mhackney, I actually got the machine to do a dry run. It looks like fine, but maybe the distance its traveling is still ...

I got it to move by controlling it with Creation Workshop. At first the motor was super loud and chunky sounding so I adjusted the trim pot. It still doesn't turn smoothly, but its not as loud. Trying to figure out why its no turning smoothly. Also, I tell it to move 10mm, and it moves atleast 20mm ...

How did you get to that point? I just finished building the machine, now I can't make it move. I downloaded Xloader and uploaded this from the firmware instructions: https://github.com/grbl/grbl-builds/blob/master/builds/grbl_v0_8c_atmega328p_16mhz_9600_build20131207.hex I have Creation Workshop and ...

Thanks ! Yeah, I've been using this guide http://download.seemecnc.com/droplit/Droplit-Assembly-Guide.pdf The only differences in the guide that I found were discussed here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=7083#p57271 The only changes I can remember were the arduino hole locations ...

http://imgur.com/cYgacTb link to photo The build is less challenging than I thought. The guide is perfect except for the changes that have been made to the kit and the most difficult part was getting everything to be straight. I have some advice based on my bumps in the road.: I straightened ...

^^

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RY ... UTF8&psc=1

QSIL 216 on Amazon, 16oz.