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I now have the tricklaser metal effector, arms, skates installed. Now I have some new problems. For one the Z-probe will sometimes "give up" on taking a reading at a random point. It will get about 2/3's down into the bed before going up and continuing on, which gives us a really messed up reading ...

So I have the tricklaser max metal frame / skates / rods / effector and I'm going to roll with a smoothieboard. However, I have no way to mount the bed to the max metal frame. My current Rostock is not... printing... well, so I have no good means of creating a support system for the bed. I'm trying ...

Our issue sounds similar to mhackney's. Regardless of calibration method we end up with 2 dips in 2 spots in the bed. Belts are evenly tight, skates are well locked in, rubber bands on the arms. We have an adjustable limit switch Z-probe that we set to match the position of the hotend to about .3mm ...

So it sounds like there are no more parameters that can be accounted for. What about situations where it calibrates consistently and repeatebly correct within .025mm, but when actual printing there is a huge variance on sections of the bed that were not tested, even if the bed is flat?

I was pushing 60 mm/s through a .7 nozzle at 100% fan and the temp dropped so low that it failed to extrude PLA (140ish). Didn't have too much of an issue with smaller nozzles (still had temp drops, but none extreme enough to cause a print to fail). Swapped to a 40 watt heater core, a screw in ...

I'm pretty sure you need an extrusion width that's wider than your nozzle diameter.

I ended up using the thinnest receipt I could find, prints have been coming out better.

I will take a look, thanks

Has anyone used something like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11207?gclid=CO26hqGti8ICFU9efgodrQ4A_g or maybe some sort of displacement sensor to get an idea of where my calibration is without using the paper? I also need to know if the offset from testing(since this will be higher than the ...

I started up a new print recently and noticed that I was getting curling with light overhangs. I had recently moved the machine into the corner of the room with a sliding glass door, so I thought the cold from that was mucking up the prints. I built a cardboard box around the machine, did not help ...

Thanks for all the responses. I would like a pause until resumed but this should work as long as I hear the beeps. I will probably have it move up and over somewhere out of the way, then have it reprime on a section of the bed before starting again.

I'm using SImplify 3D and I'm trying to figure out what gcode I need to use to implement a pause at a specific point. I don't want to use the lcd screen to pause do so and I don't want to use a timer. I want the print to pause, make some beeps, then wait for input (or timer, input preferred).

So as close as possible to the glass without touching the glass?

So the manual indicates a distance where paper scrapes under the nozzle. Depending on the paper though, that could be anywhere from .1mm to .2mm. Is there an absolute measure distance that the nozzle should be from the bed? Does it depent on which size nozzle you use (I have .35).

Thanks