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Here is the second attempt at the hollow pyramid. I reduced the retraction speed from the default 100mm/s to 40mm/s and kept the retraction length at 4mm. After the pyramid base was done, I turned on the fan at 30%. Still need some tweaking at the top which is still a glob of filament. first_layer ...

I installed PEI on the build plate following mhackney's great instructions http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7452 I also cut out some cardboard around the printer while I can get an full enclosure. Next on the list is the layer fan shroud install, LED lights and cooling fan for the ...

mhackney wrote:Actually, you can and should use a layer fan for ABS in situations like this where you have a small cross section that needs to be cooled. Please read my post #12 about layer fans and how to use them CORRECTLY. And my sticky post on fans.

I'll try it tonight!

The rest of the part looks like it's too hot - see the Hershey Kiss effect at the very top - that's melting. I'm guessing you don't have a part cooling fan since you are printing the shroud for one! Take this one, make it fit quickly and then print a "keeper" with fan cooling on. The quality of the ...

I think I've solved the first layer / second layer issues. I was able to print a few test objects last night. Thanks for everyone's help!

First layer of hollow pyramid. Hollow pyramid Another layer fan shroud in orange.

geneb wrote:That image is in the user manual. *coughs*



g.

Previous comment amended for accuracy.

I was able to recalibrate the Z height and I was 0.80 mm too high. At 0.90mm the nozzle pinned the paper to the bed, 0.85mm the nozzle had a lot of friction between the bed and paper. At 0.80mm the paper moved with a small amount of friction. The first layer is looking very good now. The image ...

This is a print of the layer fan using no name eBay ABS filament. It was my second print before I changed colors to print it again in orange to match the printer's color.

This is a new build of a 1 year old Rostock printer.

I will definitely check Z movement tonight. I think the Z height is not 100% accurate because I see the bead drop a tiny bit before sticking to the print surface. Thanks for the tip.

The issue happens at the beginning of the second layer infill. In this picture, the issue happened after the perimeter almost immediately during infill. The continuation of printing is due to my response time and the printer receiving the kill command. Sometimes the issue happens about half way ...

This was printed at 225 C for first layer and 228 C for second layer extruder temperatures which is the setting I used for my only successful ABS prints. The layer height is 0.2mm, infill is 30%. I'm using Slic3r as the slicing program.

On the second layer, my print is failing to adhere to the first layer. I am really frustrated by this as it has happened many times. I am printing using Hatchbox ABS. I've tried extruder temperatures from 215 C to 235 C with nothing really working. Bed temperature is 90 C. Here is a picture of the ...

It may be a power issue. I had the same thing happen. The printer would suddenly shut down with no lights on the RAMBO board. I took the Z tower acrylic piece off and the side panels off. Then the printer works well. So my problem was power supply overheating. I would check the following items. 1 ...

FYI, you printed the wrong fan duct. :) g. Thanks for pointing this out to me. I've been using version 1.67 of the assembly guide because that is about the time when I bought my Rostock MAX v2. That guide does say to use the fan shroud I printed. I'll try printing the newer layer fan shroud too. I ...

You don't mention what temperature you are using but you could work with the temperatures for the filament you are using. My guess would be to decrease the temperature by 5 degrees C and see if it helps to reduce the nodules. Sorry, still learning a lot about printing. Nozzle temperature was 228 C ...

Here are 3 different views of the layer fan. I didn't get any stringing but continue to have these nodules. I'm using the stock slicer settings with PID autotune and Z height calibration. Any ideas on what I can do to eliminate them on ABS? layer_fan_side.jpg layer_fan_side2.jpg layer_fan_front.jpg

I am a great fan of connectors for the hotend, but would it not be more logical to have long cables on the connectors, so all of the connectors are on top, attached to the build plate. I think one could eliminate all the danglies and make a leaner looking hotend this way. If the goal is to remove ...

I was able to do the bed calibration fairly successfully. I think I went through it about 6 times before getting everything to my current level. I tried to advance the filament with the extruder stepper motor and it didn't work. The screw would just go back and forth without moving. Searched the ...

One thing I wish is the nylon screws for the front panels had philips screwdriver head in addition to the knurled head. My hands are killing me from taking on and off the panels with these screws. After taking my panels off twice they haven't been back on :) I'll run a tap through mine some day. I ...

I decided to use a Molex connector from some older spare computer parts. I was working on the last thermistor lead and while stripping the wire, pulled the entire lead out of the thermistor. Luckily I have an extra thermistor I bought on eBay a few weeks ago. I was able to remove the old thermistor ...

One thing I wish is the nylon screws for the front panels had philips screwdriver head in addition to the knurled head. My hands are killing me from taking on and off the panels with these screws. Shortening the screws helps a bunch! That's a really good idea! I may give that a try. I spent a few ...

One thing I wish is the nylon screws for the front panels had philips screwdriver head in addition to the knurled head. My hands are killing me from taking on and off the panels with these screws.

Here is what my version of the finished Rostock MAX V2 looks like. I've since moved the Rostock from the garage to my home office. rostock_max_elric_initial_build_done.jpg I went through the tests tonight and found a few problems. All the endstops and motors works very well. The heated bed, bed ...

The awl did work to get the pins out of the connector. Hopefully my first print will be tonight.

So life happened and I had to take a long break on building the printer. I've resumed and am almost done. One problem is the wires broke off the crimped pins for the hot end thermistor going in to the RAMBO board. There is only one 1x2 latched female housing with the kit. Does anyone know how to ...