I want to install the Accelerometer board on my Romax V2

[sLpFhaWK]

Hello fellow owners. I have a v2 Rostock and I am having 1 hell of a time calibrating to get prints to stick on the outer edge. I've watched and followed the how to video numerous times and I thought I had it dialed in pretty good, but whenever I try and run a test print using simplify 3d it's fine on the x tower, too low on the y tower and way to high on the z tower. So needless to say I am pretty fed up.

I want to purchase and install the Accelerometer board on my romax v2 with my e3dv6 hotend, what is the install process? I know i'd need the board and the 8 pin plug adapter but as for installation what is needed?

Is this info found on the manual for the v3 build? I don't know if I can fit any more wires in the extrusions so that is why I'm asking for assistance.

Thanks and hopefully I can get this up and running perfectly asap.

[Xenocrates]

So, beyond the board and adapter, you need additional cabling up to the top of the printer. I use cable ducting, others have run ethernet or square tube to hide the wires away. Depending on how your V6 is mounted, the parts needed change. For the 713 maker mount, there is both a machined and printable part, which can be found in the thread on this very subject here. For the matterhackers provided one, I have no idea. For the seeme sourced groove mount, you could get longer screws and use a nylon spacer for it.

[mhackney]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I didn't think the Repetier firmware was capable of doing full delta calibration? Even with SeeMeCNC's accelerometer probe and firmware modifications, it only calibrates endstop offsets, horizontal radius and Z height. A great step forward for sure but not really the full kahuna. A full calibration would include:

- endtop correction
- delta radius
- diagonal rod length
- tower angular position corrections

at a minimum. This is what dc42 firmware on Duet does - and does FAST. Of course, if the mechanical build is perfect and nothing ever changed, calibrate once and you'd be done. But in the real world, the printer is subject to environmental conditions (temperature, humidity, phase of the moon) and does change and mechanical builds are never perfect. So calibration is important. To get the precision I need for my parts (functional fly fishing reels, fully 3D printed) I need to calibrate multiple times a day. dc42 is so fast, I just include it in my gcode and do it for every print. I get 100% perfect first layers.

[mhackney]

@ sLpFhaWK an alternative would be FSR leveling. I'm currently using these on ALL my printers and they are easier to install than retrofitting the accelerometer board.

[sLpFhaWK]

@ sLpFhaWK an alternative would be FSR leveling. I'm currently using these on ALL my printers and they are easier to install than retrofitting the accelerometer board.

I was actually told about the FSR leveling I just wasn't sure how to get it done on the max. Care to show me some photo's and what the process is? I think i saw the kits for like 40ish dollars.

[mhackney]

It is all documented in my Rostock build thread. I designed the mounts (3) that need to be printed. The best place to get your FSRs and JohnSL board is http://www.ultibots.com/fsr-kit/. Tell them I sent you! The reason they are best is all of the connectors are included and preinstalled on the FSRs themselves, comes with all wiring harnesses and silicone pads required to isolate the FSRs from the heated bed and distribute the force. All the other sources have raw FSRs and it is a major PIA to attach the connectors. Been there, done that. You need 3 FSRs and 1 FSR Board.

[Tincho85]

FSR + heated bed? I mostly print ABS and if I recall FSR don't like high temperatures.
and what about an IR height sensor? better? worst? does it play nice with PEI?

[mhackney]

Read my thread and search the 100s of posts on other forums that discuss this. This is old speculation that was started by folks who hadn't tried them. There are absolutely NO issues with a heated bed and FSRs if you set it up correctly. I even know folks using them in a heated chamber. To my knowledge, no one has reported an FSR failure due to heat exposure.

IR sensor - I have Dave's sensor on the same Rostock as I have FSRs. It works fine EXCEPT that it is not compatible with the repair method I use for PEI and you have to paint the back of PEI black for it to work. It is also a different challenge to set up in that it rides on the effector so you have to fabricate a mount that works with your setup.

[Tincho85]

Ok, good to know the temperature issue was just a 3D printer myth. I read it somewhere and got stuck inside my brain.
I don't mind making a custom adapter, but removing the adhesive from the PEI to paint it seems like a lot of work.

I'm between crossroads. Get the Duet + FSR/probe/something that autolevels or buy the accelerometer probe and stick with my Rambo.
I doesn't bother me doing the manual calibration, but that's what I thought when putting UHU to the glass before getting the PEI sheet... now I can't even think printing without it

[TwoTone]

I have to ask, do you have PEI on the glass and a heat spreader?

[mhackney]

@Tincho85 - the Duet and dc42 firmware is the best there is for deltas right now (and for at least the last year). I've written on my blog and other places why this is so as have many others. The RAMBo, running an Arduino, is old technology and does not have the horsepower or memory to perform like Duet. I do not have my V3 yet so I can't say anything about the accelerometer probing and firmware yet. Some things seem inferior in theory but are just fine in practice. This might very well be the case here and I intend to exercise it thoroughly. At some point SeeMeCNC will offer an alternative to the RAMBo. There have been several "leaks" about what that might be and let's just say it is built by the RAMBo developer and looks like a Duet. That would be the BEST of all worlds in my opinion. We need several boards/vendors that run Duet to get some competition going and accelerate development even faster than it has. Going with the accelerometer for now is not a 1-way street either. At some point, it will be supported in dc42 as well. I ordered a "raw" accelerometer with my V3 so I can start working on that.

@TowTone - if you are asking me, then yes. I have a 1/8" aluminum heat spreader under the glass with PEI attached to the glass. I painted the back of this PEI black so I can use the IR probe as well as FSRs on the same machine. Ultimately my plan is to add an accelerometer probe too so I can compare. To the best of my knowledge, no one else has FSRs and IR probe on the same machine and few have experience with both. I do and soon I'll add the accelerometer probe to my knowledge base.

[Tincho85]

Hi, current set up goes like this (from Top to Bottom):

0.03" PEI sheet
Boro Glass
3mm Aluminum Heat Spreader
Onyx

Edit: Thanks Michael, I've heard nothing but good things about the Duet. It's on my wish list.
But for now, I'm going to wait to see (is that grammatically right?XD) what people think of the new accelerometer.

[mhackney]

Mine too with snowflake underneath it all. The snowflake is mounted to the FSRs so they are completely isolated from heat.

[Xenocrates]

Also, from the Interlink datasheet, the FSR's (402 short, with female contacts and housing, that is a commercial part, not something Ultibots assembles), the hot environment rating is at 85C, which suggests that they are tested at that range, and they see a 15% resistance decrease, which might cause concern, if not for the adjustability of the interface board. They also state that they were stored at 85C for 5 days continuous (120 hours) for testing. This suggests that they should be relatively reliable. I did a thermal analysis of a set of aluminum brackets, applying 140C to the screw connection, and a 50C ambient temperature (which is around what a heated chamber would go for), and never saw the FSR region itself rise above 60C. And honestly, if the stainless steel screws you use to secure the bed are 140c at the tip where it goes to the bracket, then you have probably confused the bed and temperatures.

Honestly, I could probably throw together a better thermal model than that for accuracy, but I doubt that you'll see much (if any) degradation due to the heat, especially if you don't have a heated chamber on your printer (I do, and am moving towards 24V power for the bed to be able to achieve 140-150C bed temperatures for some of the plastics produced by 3DXtech, which is why I did the thermal model I did.)

[geneb]

The FSR is no where near close enough to the heated bed to be more than marginally heated by it.

g.