Assembly manual discussion thread!
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
I'm glad you liked it. The 2nd edition is going to be changed pretty extensively I suspect. All for the good though.
g.
g.
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Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
V2 kit ordered
Have some PermaTex coming, ignoring the Glue Stick as I'm going to be using PLA.
Aside from Crimp connectors (do I still need to buy these in the V2 kit?), is there anything else I need to buy? Also - anyone know some suitable connectors on the other side of the pond, preferably in the UK?
Also - presume the servo-style + JST connectors would be useful to have to, for the steppers etc?
Already have Kapton tape, digital calipers, etc etc.
Any info much appreciated :]
Have some PermaTex coming, ignoring the Glue Stick as I'm going to be using PLA.
Aside from Crimp connectors (do I still need to buy these in the V2 kit?), is there anything else I need to buy? Also - anyone know some suitable connectors on the other side of the pond, preferably in the UK?
Also - presume the servo-style + JST connectors would be useful to have to, for the steppers etc?
Already have Kapton tape, digital calipers, etc etc.
Any info much appreciated :]
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
I've been working on my kit the last 2 evenings for a few hours each plus today.
Since I got a kit where some of the parts didn't get cut quite right on the laser(missed a tool path, new ones in the mail already - stepper mounts), I can't really assemble mine in the order of the manual.
Off the 2nd edition manual I have noticed some things that could be fixed or need improvement.
The page for the carriages specifies 1" 6-32 screws when they should be 2" in the BOM (P122)
Why pull off the shielding and outer insulation? It fits up just fine. I put a better chamfer on the ends of my 80/20 because there were some burrs, I was able to push all the wires right up the 80/20 no problem. I also pushed the wires up before i attached them to anything All of the wires went up without a problem. Stagger the terminals on the limit switch wires when pushing, also fold the fan wires in half and push the folded end up ahead of the 22/4 just a little bit.
No need to mark the limit switch wires, just pull on the appropriate wire at the top or bottom to determine which axis they go to.
On the Onyx, all the countersinks were very poor and very wide angle, screws stick up above the surface, I used an appropriate 82 deg countersink to countersink those properly.
nope, stepper was correct in the manual, that hole is for the filament
I assembled my hot end using an empty wine bottle - worked nicely to hold it.
Since I got a kit where some of the parts didn't get cut quite right on the laser(missed a tool path, new ones in the mail already - stepper mounts), I can't really assemble mine in the order of the manual.
Off the 2nd edition manual I have noticed some things that could be fixed or need improvement.
The page for the carriages specifies 1" 6-32 screws when they should be 2" in the BOM (P122)
Why pull off the shielding and outer insulation? It fits up just fine. I put a better chamfer on the ends of my 80/20 because there were some burrs, I was able to push all the wires right up the 80/20 no problem. I also pushed the wires up before i attached them to anything All of the wires went up without a problem. Stagger the terminals on the limit switch wires when pushing, also fold the fan wires in half and push the folded end up ahead of the 22/4 just a little bit.
No need to mark the limit switch wires, just pull on the appropriate wire at the top or bottom to determine which axis they go to.
On the Onyx, all the countersinks were very poor and very wide angle, screws stick up above the surface, I used an appropriate 82 deg countersink to countersink those properly.
nope, stepper was correct in the manual, that hole is for the filament
I assembled my hot end using an empty wine bottle - worked nicely to hold it.
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
The error on that page has been corrected (as of Thursday I think).
Stripping the wiring out of the outer jacket just makes the task of running the wire easier.
g.
Stripping the wiring out of the outer jacket just makes the task of running the wire easier.
g.
Delta Power!
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
The manual does not cover the version 7 heated bed that came with my unit. (no Hot End LED)
I was able to build through that step, just ignoring the Hot End LED stuff, but you should update the manual.
I was able to build through that step, just ignoring the Hot End LED stuff, but you should update the manual.
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Yes it does.
http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... dition.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
g.
http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... dition.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
g.
Delta Power!
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Not the one that I got from where I bought the printer.
Matter Hackers points to your original manual
On this page:
http://www.matterhackers.com/store/prin ... mplete-kit" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
They point to this file:
http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Not this newer manual. I suggest you don't change the name of the manual file.
thanks for the manual update though.
Matter Hackers points to your original manual
On this page:
http://www.matterhackers.com/store/prin ... mplete-kit" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
They point to this file:
http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Not this newer manual. I suggest you don't change the name of the manual file.
thanks for the manual update though.
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
I would suggest adding a spool of ABS filament to the required materials list of the manual, seeing as you need that to print the fan shrouds in the end.
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
They used to add a small spool of ABS, they quit doing that?milp wrote:I would suggest adding a spool of ABS filament to the required materials list of the manual, seeing as you need that to print the fan shrouds in the end.
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Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Yep.Eaglezsoar wrote:They used to add a small spool of ABS, they quit doing that?milp wrote:I would suggest adding a spool of ABS filament to the required materials list of the manual, seeing as you need that to print the fan shrouds in the end.
R-Max V2
Eris
Folger Tech FT-5 R2
Eris
Folger Tech FT-5 R2
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Page 136,
Mine did not come with any screws captured inside. I was able to proceed however since I had extra M3 screws since I put on the servo dampeners.The filament tensioner includes two mounting screws that are “captured” inside the assembly
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
I really like the manual, it was a fairly major factor in my decision to buy a Max2 it instead of ...whatever Cartesian printer.
I suggest a couple of slight changes in the sequence of steps.
a) leave the heated bed, delta arms, effector, hot end, etc OFF until after the initial power up and homing test.
This would get the motor directions verified/corrected without risk of nozzle to glass contact.
b) assemble the delta arms, effector, hot end, etc BEFORE installing the heated bed.
This would keep the bed heater and glass plate free from the "workshop environment" of doing the effector and hot end assembly work.
I acknowledge that Gene's aim was probably to get ALL the assembly done before doing ANY testing with power.
I suggest a couple of slight changes in the sequence of steps.
a) leave the heated bed, delta arms, effector, hot end, etc OFF until after the initial power up and homing test.
This would get the motor directions verified/corrected without risk of nozzle to glass contact.
b) assemble the delta arms, effector, hot end, etc BEFORE installing the heated bed.
This would keep the bed heater and glass plate free from the "workshop environment" of doing the effector and hot end assembly work.
I acknowledge that Gene's aim was probably to get ALL the assembly done before doing ANY testing with power.
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Why is the 3/8" Wrench needed to tighten the nozzle not in the list of required tools? Please update the list
- jdurand
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Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Your 1-3/4" screws settled some in shipping, they were more like 1-5/8". Maybe they got wet and shrunk.
Standing on the edge of reality... (me)
Quando omni flunkus moritati (Red Green)
Let no man belong to another that can belong to himself. (Paracelsus)
All things are poison and nothing is without poison; only the dose makes a thing not a poison. (Ibid.)
Quando omni flunkus moritati (Red Green)
Let no man belong to another that can belong to himself. (Paracelsus)
All things are poison and nothing is without poison; only the dose makes a thing not a poison. (Ibid.)
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Was that referring to my post? If so, i haven't understood a single thing.jdurand wrote:Your 1-3/4" screws settled some in shipping, they were more like 1-5/8". Maybe they got wet and shrunk.
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Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
No, referring to the manual in general compared to reality.
Standing on the edge of reality... (me)
Quando omni flunkus moritati (Red Green)
Let no man belong to another that can belong to himself. (Paracelsus)
All things are poison and nothing is without poison; only the dose makes a thing not a poison. (Ibid.)
Quando omni flunkus moritati (Red Green)
Let no man belong to another that can belong to himself. (Paracelsus)
All things are poison and nothing is without poison; only the dose makes a thing not a poison. (Ibid.)
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Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
My power supply that came with the kit seems to be different from the one in the new manual (Jan 21st, ver 2.43). I am looking for the connector shown in Fig. 3-17. Aside from the 8 pin connector and the motherboard connector, I only have two 4-pin Molex connectors and two 4-wire SATA power connectors.
These 4 connectors have other connectors pigtailed and are not as long as the wires from the 8 pin connector. Do I just take the black and yellow wires from these, and cut off the pigtailed connectors? How much length do I need from the wires?
These 4 connectors have other connectors pigtailed and are not as long as the wires from the 8 pin connector. Do I just take the black and yellow wires from these, and cut off the pigtailed connectors? How much length do I need from the wires?
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Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
I am currently building the v2 and I am about halfway done. I have two suggestions/corrections.
On page 92, the section titled "Installing the Upper Tower Mounts", I recommend adding a comment that emphasizes there is a top and bottom for the plate. Basically I put the tower mounts in upside down and when I attempted to zip-tie the endstop wires many steps later, I realized that the zip tie holes for the X-Z endstop wires were on the other side
On page 35, it says to find a connector which has only yellow/black wires in which you are supposed to cut 2 pairs of yellow/black wires. For my power supply, I did not have these available. I actually spent a couple of hours retracing my steps to make sure I did not mess up. I would add a comment that says yellow is ALWAYS 12V, and black is ALWAYS ground for these power supplies. So if this connector is not available, pick two pairs of the longest yellow/black wires that are not being used already and cut those instead.
Other than that, great manual. It has helped me a lot.
On page 92, the section titled "Installing the Upper Tower Mounts", I recommend adding a comment that emphasizes there is a top and bottom for the plate. Basically I put the tower mounts in upside down and when I attempted to zip-tie the endstop wires many steps later, I realized that the zip tie holes for the X-Z endstop wires were on the other side
On page 35, it says to find a connector which has only yellow/black wires in which you are supposed to cut 2 pairs of yellow/black wires. For my power supply, I did not have these available. I actually spent a couple of hours retracing my steps to make sure I did not mess up. I would add a comment that says yellow is ALWAYS 12V, and black is ALWAYS ground for these power supplies. So if this connector is not available, pick two pairs of the longest yellow/black wires that are not being used already and cut those instead.
Other than that, great manual. It has helped me a lot.
- lightninjay
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Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Hey Gene, not sure if it was intended or not, but it appears that in version 2.51 of the manual, the Heated Bed PID calibration routine of "M303 P1 S60" has been omitted.
On pages 233 and 234, the hotend PID routine is covered, but then on page 235, it jumps straight to Z-calibration, which requires a warmed up hotend AND bed.
Just wanted to make sure this didn't get skipped or left out accidentally!
Building two Rostock Max V2s for my University's 3D printing department and the first one is up and running.
Her name is Sheila
On pages 233 and 234, the hotend PID routine is covered, but then on page 235, it jumps straight to Z-calibration, which requires a warmed up hotend AND bed.
Just wanted to make sure this didn't get skipped or left out accidentally!
Building two Rostock Max V2s for my University's 3D printing department and the first one is up and running.
Her name is Sheila
If at first you don't succeed, you're doing something wrong. Try again, and if it fails again, try once more. Through trial and error, one can be the first to accomplish something great.
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Sheila was the lady in the tank. She was my friend.
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
The heated bed PID was pulled by request. It was causing too many support calls for no real gain.
g.
g.
Delta Power!
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Well, I'm not a fan of the manual. Neither is my wife since she got to hear me complain about it.
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
any certain part or just the format in general?
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Gene works very hard to create the various manuals and is interested in fixing the manual if there are mistakes or problems.DerStig wrote:Well, I'm not a fan of the manual. Neither is my wife since she got to hear me complain about it.
Your statement "I am not a fan of the manual" indicates nothing helpful concerning problems with the manual.
If you feel that there are problems with the manual that you feel needs fixing then please indicate what the problems are and
I guarantee that Gene will look into your stated problems and if repairs are necessary they will be done.
Re: Assembly manual discussion thread!
Please update or delete the version of the manual you have in github. I ran across this version first and being a programmer, I made the invalid assumption that it was the latest. There are defiantly a lot of things that have been clarified in the latest version =)
With that said, I guess a video on what defines a little smoke would be nice. I apparently fried my extruded in the calibration step, my guess is the thermistor was not properly seated.
With that said, I guess a video on what defines a little smoke would be nice. I apparently fried my extruded in the calibration step, my guess is the thermistor was not properly seated.