My H 1-1 arrived a few days ago so I am ready to write the new manual. If anyone has forged ahead and has any hints, tips, etc please post here for consideration to be used in the manual.
My machine is yellow, very sharp looking!
Cheers,
Michael
H-1.1 input
H-1.1 input
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Re: H-1.1 input
I really could have used a parts list with images of each part.
Also, it's probably a lot more work, but consider how Lego and Ikea manuals are written. Each step has a box showing the parts and quantity of each part needed for that step, then an image of how those parts add to the current subassembly.
The current H1 manual suffers from an imbalance of too much text and too few images, so while you might not have the time or inclination to go to the extreme of the Lego or Ikea examples with all images and no text, consider at least adding significantly more imagery to the manual.
Also, it's probably a lot more work, but consider how Lego and Ikea manuals are written. Each step has a box showing the parts and quantity of each part needed for that step, then an image of how those parts add to the current subassembly.
The current H1 manual suffers from an imbalance of too much text and too few images, so while you might not have the time or inclination to go to the extreme of the Lego or Ikea examples with all images and no text, consider at least adding significantly more imagery to the manual.
Re: H-1.1 input
A section on mounting options/requirements for the heat bed.
Re: H-1.1 input
Also would like a section on mounting the endstops. Mine are currently attached with doubles sided foam tape, which I'll eventually replace with printed brackets of some sort, but it would have saved time to have suggestions for mounting and location.
Re: H-1.1 input
Just finished my H-1.1 a few days ago, seemed pretty straightforward if you keep in mind the idea of same thing with few parts.
The one tip I thought of (not sure if others have also found this) is that depth of the black feet of the printer is almost exactly
the same as the distance needed for the small bearings, used in the baring assemblies, to be pushed onto their respective black
rods. Because of this you can take one of the feet, put a bearing, and then a plastic black rod on top of each other, on the
foot, and simply squeeze it all together using a vice, making those bearing assemblies much less time consuming.
The one tip I thought of (not sure if others have also found this) is that depth of the black feet of the printer is almost exactly
the same as the distance needed for the small bearings, used in the baring assemblies, to be pushed onto their respective black
rods. Because of this you can take one of the feet, put a bearing, and then a plastic black rod on top of each other, on the
foot, and simply squeeze it all together using a vice, making those bearing assemblies much less time consuming.
Re: H-1.1 input
I recently assembled my H1.1 and I will add another vote for more pictures.
Re: H-1.1 input
I drilled 5/64" holes in the "bar clamps" and fastened the mechanical switches with #4 wood screws. Nice and solid. I used one of the extra bar clamps for mounting the z-axis switch this way as well.stienman wrote:Also would like a section on mounting the endstops. Mine are currently attached with doubles sided foam tape, which I'll eventually replace with printed brackets of some sort, but it would have saved time to have suggestions for mounting and location.