Depends on the plastic, it's also hard to compare temperatures because the placement of the thermistor matters.harley573 wrote:I'm printing at 230°C with ABS. What do you use?
Lol, thanks. I have some experience with slicing thanks to my past 6 moths plaything with a Makerbot Replicator at work (it's in my office, I'm the only operator). Having a pre-assembled printer removed most of the variables related to calibration. I was free to print to my heart's content. I really don't know what to say, I'm still learning just like you guys. This item was literally the 10th or 12th item I ever pulled off the printer.harley573 wrote:Holy smokes! That's a tight print. I was fairly pleased with mine, but yours is clearly better. I wonder what the difference is besides the thicker wall?
Where do you go from here once you are satisfied with this calibration cube? I tried printing some other parts with these settings which resulted in utter crap.
If it's delaminating print a little hotter try in 5 degree increments, ABS will do this if you are printing at borderline temperatures, it's a bit of a balancing act between cool enough that you can print a good overhang without issues and hot enough that it sticks to itself. Basically what's happening is the new layer going down on cool plastic isn't hot enough to form a strong weld with the previous one.cassetti wrote: I did have problems with cracking on my single wall 40x40x40mm test (no picts, battery was dead). Any suggestions how I can avoid that?
Thanks, I'm running at 230, but My temps are probably wrong. I need to get an accurate measurement of my temp and compare against what my thermistor is reading. Hopefully I'll get one in a week or so. But in the meantime, I'll try a single wall 40x40x40mm cube at 235C and see what happens.Polygonhell wrote:If it's delaminating print a little hotter try in 5 degree increments, ABS will do this if you are printing at borderline temperatures, it's a bit of a balancing act between cool enough that you can print a good overhang without issues and hot enough that it sticks to itself. Basically what's happening is the new layer going down on cool plastic isn't hot enough to form a strong weld with the previous one.cassetti wrote: I did have problems with cracking on my single wall 40x40x40mm test (no picts, battery was dead). Any suggestions how I can avoid that?
I'm lazy so my usual solution is to print slightly hot and turn a fan on if I have something like a tricky overhang.
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I think we're perfectionists.Dust2Dust02 wrote:Are you guys just such perfectionists you are making this look harder than it is?
cope413 wrote:It's a mix of both...
Deltas right now are much harder than cartesians to calibrate - simply because there are far fewer of us in the 3D printing community and less work has been done on them.
In general, Delta's will always involve a higher degree of difficulty because of more variables, but that's offset (for most of us here) by the benefits of a finely tuned machine.
The issues with calibration that you've read and are scared of are real issues, but they probably won't affect you if you're an average or light user of your machine. I say that because the super technical calibration posts and info really only apply if you're trying to get crazy good tolerances all the way out to the perimeter of your build plate.
For the first month or so with my machine, I was getting great prints - equal to or better than my Airwolf 3D v5.5 - and I was happy. As soon as I started printing bigger (150mm+ diameter), I ran into issues. I upgraded to the TL arms, I got the E3D hot end, and I used a friend and machinist's tools to square and level my machine (as you likely know, it's not easy to properly square and level your towers by yourself).
But here's the real issue that people do not yet understand about 3D printing (or life in general, but that's for another forum). Time in = results out.
There is no amount of reading you can do, no amount of videos you can watch, or forums posts you can scour that will do ANYTHING for you if you aren't trying to print stuff - and trying to print a LOT of stuff. I've said it before, but hobby level 3D printing is not a science right now. It's an art. The ONLY way you will learn to tune your machine and get great prints is to print stuff - print lots and lots of stuff. You'll print something 1 day and it'll be perfect, and you'll come back the next day, try the same file, with the same gcode, with the same filament, and it'll fail. And you'll have to figure out what variable changed and caused it. And when you figure it out, you will have added to your knowledge base and will likely never have that same issue again. And when you come up against an issue you can't seem to figure out, then you post on the forum and get all of us to chime in with our experiences from printing and it's very likely we'll help you figure it out.
Yes, having a MakerBot (I've been playing with one for about 3 months now) can be very nice for people. You drop a file in, hit print, and you get pretty good results. You're very limited in your options, but for a lot of people, that is all they need.
If you don't want to deal with the issues that arise with kits like the Max (and that's not a negative at all - I use my printers for work and pleasure, so I fully understand not having the time to spend fixing or calibrating things), then I would recommend selling it and getting something like a MakerBot. You'll pay a lot more, and you'll get a lot less as far as features go, but that may be worth it to you for your needs.
Totally understand your frustration, but I guarantee that if you're patient and put the time in, you'll come to the realization that the Max is one of, if not the best values on the market.
While it is true you no longer have to sand the arms themselves, you do still endure a lot of sanding and filing to get those u - joints to pass the flick test with no side to side wobble which is easier said than done, as we all know. I thought this too played a part in the blues, maybe not, I'm not sure but IMO it introduces too much room for human error which is why I went with the Trick Laser arms from the get go but I still filed and fit the u - joints just to see how well I could do it.The delta arm blues sticky should be modified with a disclaimer that this is a legacy issue and doesn't have anything to do with the current machines. For several months now, they've machined the arms for a perfect tolerance and there's no sanding required at all.
