Transported RSV3 and now 1st layer issues

[TheDon]

I had my printer happily printing PLA so I thought I'd let my makerspace use if for a class yesterday. I carefully strapped it down to my back seat on its side with the carriage inverted and skates held in place with rubber bands.

It printed perfectly for the class with PLA and I brought it home and decided to try my first spool of ABS. I homed the printer and did a full calibration to be safe.

Now for the issues

Setup
Hot end temp: 235
Bed: 90
Purple glue stick on glass for adhesion.

File: benchy

First layer goes on super transparent so I read up on z offset and connect via mattercontroller and adjusted the nozzle until a piece of paper would just barely get snagged by the nozzle end. That was a 0.08mm offset.

Start benchy 2, still transparent and the first layer looks like crap going down and not even.

bridging, what bridging. It just squirts melted plastic out. And as it prints the perimeter it looks like nozzle is pressing down because the still hot plastic is bending.


As soon as it's done I'm going to have to figure out where to begin. I'm thinking I need to look at the extrusion multiplier. I didn't change it in S3D for ABS and it's at 1.06

Suggestions?

[TheDon]

Forgot to mention it's hatchbox white ABS

I did change the extrusion multiplier to 1 and saw an immediate improvement in layer extrusion but I now think my HE temp may be too high for this filament since it's at 235 which is 5 degrees less than suggested max for this filament.

[TheDon]

I'm attempting to do the delta calibration wizard and I cannot complete it. On the move from the 5th bed probe to the 6th, between x and z towers, the hot end assembly
Seems to get jammed. The arms look like they are pushing the head out too far beyond their reach causing it to crash? Every time I run the code it does the same
Thing.

[Mac The Knife]

I would check the mechanical endstop adjustments, I assume with the V3 still requires the endstops to be manually adjusted during the build? From what I've noticed with the auto-calibration, it resets the endstop settings to 0 before it starts probing the bed.

[pouncingiguana]

I would also go back to using PLA to test it to lower the number of variables in testing

[Tincho85]

Sorry but if nothing was changed before and after you moved the printer, then there is no reason to be a software problem.
You should check everything mechanical related. Go through every bolt, belt, carriage. They issue must be there.

Best of luck

[TheDon]

I redid the cable whip sort of. I removed the Bowden tube and disconnected it from the hot end and untwisted the Bowden tube since it was causing issues catching on the x tower skate. Put it all back together and did a 1 layer test print which was successful. I was successful at running the delta calibration wizard and immediately saw an improved first layer across the whole bed. I didnseitcj back to PLA since ABS really needs an enclosure.

Go to print a part and the printer shuts off completely. Weird...I'm able to turn it back on after two minutes or so. I attempt a print and it's going well and then it starts air printing. The HE and bed temp both show "def".

I stopped the print, clean off the failure and restart the printer. For fun I start the print again. Hot end target is 205 and bed temp is not used. The temperature now just hovers around 203.7, 202.9, etc. but never goes above 203.7. I set the HE to 210 to see what happens and it won't go past 207.5-7.

I reseated all connections on the Rambo board and haven't reseated everything on the PSU.

[Tincho85]

Hello, if the printer shuts down while it's printing then there is a short somewhere or the psu is malfunctioning.
Someone with an electronics background should step up and help you here, I wouldn't know where to start.

If you see a "def" then one or both thermistors are broken or not properly connected to the board.

[TheDon]

Checked the PSU output and it's 1.6 volts.

Opened the PSU after removing it and one of the large capacitors blew. I have a new MeanWell brand PSU coming today to replace this. The cap must have been failing when I started the last print because I smelled a burnt ramen smell and wasn't sure if it was the IKEA table or the filament.

[Tincho85]

Great Don! Hope the new PSU solves it.
Keep us posted.

PS: I don't know much about electronics, but I do know if you open a power supply you shouldn't touch those capacitors.
They could kill you. I'm not saying you don't know this, but as a warning for others.

The capacitors can hold a charge for long after they have been switched off (they are charged to ~320vDC).
But they are shunted by bleeder resistors which will reduce the voltage to a safe value in a minute or two.

[TheDon]

new psu solved it. support shipped me a replacement that ill keep on the shelf if my meanwell version dies.

I generally don't mess with capacitors unless they have been discharged. the bad PSU will be recycled or put in the junk electronics pile at my makerspace for someone to repair and use