Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
I got it now... Thank you very much!
So I'll place the 5v Regulator on the Smoothieboard using the 1A version. Connect the Full GLCD & Shield and that will power the Smoothieboard with NO USB Cable. However, you need the USB Cable to transfer the G-Code files over to the SD Card on the Smoothieboard (as I believe the GLCD SD Card won't work properly). But... In the event of a crash simply turning off the ATX Switch won't solve the problem. You must shut down the Smoothieboard completely by removing the USB Cable that is keeping the "brain" alive if you will.
That I did not know and is great to learn! Thank you! I'll look into getting a switch type of hub or at least two cables easily accessible to unplug in such an event. Maybe you can post a link to your USB Hub? Oh and thanks for the photo of your setup.
Next the E-Steps for the filament... I'll start with your 90.90mm suggestion and work from there for my machine. As no two are alike, but that is a good starting point. Again, thanks!
I noticed that you have the following in your "config.txt" file...
alpha_steps_per_mm 200
beta_steps_per_mm 200
gamma_steps_per_mm 200
I thought they should be 80 each for a 20 Tooth Pulley? Or are you running a different Pulley like an 8 Tooth Pulley? Or Belt Pitch?
Andre
So I'll place the 5v Regulator on the Smoothieboard using the 1A version. Connect the Full GLCD & Shield and that will power the Smoothieboard with NO USB Cable. However, you need the USB Cable to transfer the G-Code files over to the SD Card on the Smoothieboard (as I believe the GLCD SD Card won't work properly). But... In the event of a crash simply turning off the ATX Switch won't solve the problem. You must shut down the Smoothieboard completely by removing the USB Cable that is keeping the "brain" alive if you will.
That I did not know and is great to learn! Thank you! I'll look into getting a switch type of hub or at least two cables easily accessible to unplug in such an event. Maybe you can post a link to your USB Hub? Oh and thanks for the photo of your setup.
Next the E-Steps for the filament... I'll start with your 90.90mm suggestion and work from there for my machine. As no two are alike, but that is a good starting point. Again, thanks!
I noticed that you have the following in your "config.txt" file...
alpha_steps_per_mm 200
beta_steps_per_mm 200
gamma_steps_per_mm 200
I thought they should be 80 each for a 20 Tooth Pulley? Or are you running a different Pulley like an 8 Tooth Pulley? Or Belt Pitch?
Andre
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
AEK wrote:I got it now... Thank you very much!
Maybe you can post a link to your USB Hub? Oh and thanks for the photo of your setup.
Next the E-Steps for the filament... I'll start with your 90.90mm suggestion and work from there for my machine. As no two are alike, but that is a good starting point. Again, thanks!
I noticed that you have the following in your "config.txt" file...
alpha_steps_per_mm 200
beta_steps_per_mm 200
gamma_steps_per_mm 200
I thought they should be 80 each for a 20 Tooth Pulley? Or are you running a different Pulley like an 8 Tooth Pulley? Or Belt Pitch?
Andre
I'm running .9 degree steppers(400step/rev) on 16 tooth pulleys.
(steps * microstepping) / (teeth * pitch)
(400 * 16)/ (16 * 2) = 200 steps per mm
As for the USB hub, it's a Etekcity Powered 10 Port USB 3.0.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UVH ... ge_o02_s00" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Fantastic! Ordering one!
Thanks KAS!
Thanks KAS!
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Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Was there something wrong with the original steppers and smoothieboard? Or did you just want to use better ones?KAS wrote:AEK wrote:I got it now... Thank you very much!
Maybe you can post a link to your USB Hub? Oh and thanks for the photo of your setup.
Next the E-Steps for the filament... I'll start with your 90.90mm suggestion and work from there for my machine. As no two are alike, but that is a good starting point. Again, thanks!
I noticed that you have the following in your "config.txt" file...
alpha_steps_per_mm 200
beta_steps_per_mm 200
gamma_steps_per_mm 200
I thought they should be 80 each for a 20 Tooth Pulley? Or are you running a different Pulley like an 8 Tooth Pulley? Or Belt Pitch?
Andre
I'm running .9 degree steppers(400step/rev) on 16 tooth pulleys.
(steps * microstepping) / (teeth * pitch)
(400 * 16)/ (16 * 2) = 200 steps per mm
As for the USB hub, it's a Etekcity Powered 10 Port USB 3.0.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UVH ... ge_o02_s00" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
There is some weird vertical banding going on with multiple 3d printers. Few of us were trying different things trying to see if we could figure it out. I changed to 400/rev steppers and smaller pulleys to gain higher resolution. The upgrade to Smoothie, was just something else to try.
I went from this
to this (this was on the Rambo, The Smoothieboard didn't provide any noticeable benefit)
I went from this
to this (this was on the Rambo, The Smoothieboard didn't provide any noticeable benefit)
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Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Wow. Those are some nice prints. What were your slice settings? nozzle? Hotend type? layer size (0.1)?KAS wrote:There is some weird vertical banding going on with multiple 3d printers. Few of us were trying different things trying to see if we could figure it out. I changed to 400/rev steppers and smaller pulleys to gain higher resolution. The upgrade to Smoothie, was just something else to try.
I went from this
to this (this was on the Rambo, The Smoothieboard didn't provide any noticeable benefit)
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Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
kas,
could you post the number for your steppers and pulley? did you ge tthem from robotdigg?
Tom C
could you post the number for your steppers and pulley? did you ge tthem from robotdigg?
Tom C
MAX V1
325 MM carbon arms trick trucks effector mount LED ring heat spreader
Corvair750
V6 Hotend
Robo 3D
Flashforge creator
http://WWW.TeslagenX.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - Bedini experimenter kits, books, DVD's
325 MM carbon arms trick trucks effector mount LED ring heat spreader
Corvair750
V6 Hotend
Robo 3D
Flashforge creator
http://WWW.TeslagenX.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - Bedini experimenter kits, books, DVD's
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Steppers: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;stonewater wrote:kas,
could you post the number for your steppers and pulley? did you ge tthem from robotdigg?
Tom C
pulleys were from ebay, just generic GT2 16 Tooth : http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... h&_sacat=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Absolutely no idea, I think those are printed at .20 layers but temp is dependent on the filament. I know it was PLA.Fiddler2070 wrote:Wow. Those are some nice prints. What were your slice settings? nozzle? Hotend type? layer size (0.1)?KAS wrote:There is some weird vertical banding going on with multiple 3d printers. Few of us were trying different things trying to see if we could figure it out. I changed to 400/rev steppers and smaller pulleys to gain higher resolution. The upgrade to Smoothie, was just something else to try.
I went from this
to this (this was on the Rambo, The Smoothieboard didn't provide any noticeable benefit)
This was the thread and also included that test model, few pages into the thread.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... ing#p61694" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
KAS,
Could you post your "config" file and if you have one, your "config override" file(s) please?
I've got several of them for the SmoothieBoard and I'm looking over them for settings like:
"mm_per_arc_segment"
"mm_per_line_segment"
"delta_segments_per_second"
"junction_deviation"
To get a good idea of what is the "norm" around here and/or the best overall settings.
Thinking of ordering the same 0.9 degree steppers as you as well.
Thanks!
Could you post your "config" file and if you have one, your "config override" file(s) please?
I've got several of them for the SmoothieBoard and I'm looking over them for settings like:
"mm_per_arc_segment"
"mm_per_line_segment"
"delta_segments_per_second"
"junction_deviation"
To get a good idea of what is the "norm" around here and/or the best overall settings.
Thinking of ordering the same 0.9 degree steppers as you as well.
Thanks!
My Spool Holder for the Rostock MAX v2 on Repables & Thingiverse.
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
I don't use an override config, everything is put into the "config" file. I've attached it, just remove the .txt portion or copy/paste into yours.RMLynch wrote:KAS,
Could you post your "config" file and if you have one, your "config override" file(s) please?
I've got several of them for the SmoothieBoard and I'm looking over them for settings like:
"mm_per_arc_segment"
"mm_per_line_segment"
"delta_segments_per_second"
"junction_deviation"
To get a good idea of what is the "norm" around here and/or the best overall settings.
Thinking of ordering the same 0.9 degree steppers as you as well.
Thanks!
I haven't edited anything in regards to those values.
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Thanks KAS!
My Spool Holder for the Rostock MAX v2 on Repables & Thingiverse.
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Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Just a Tip for you all. spent a long time online looking why this Lcd was not working !!
If you bought this LCD (http://www.makergeeks.com/xtsm12lcdra1.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) to use on a smoothiebored you need to cut the safety Key tabs off of the cables and flip them around it will work, they got them backwards. Red wire on the right side looking at it from the back side or Red wire to the sdcard Reader
If you bought this LCD (http://www.makergeeks.com/xtsm12lcdra1.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) to use on a smoothiebored you need to cut the safety Key tabs off of the cables and flip them around it will work, they got them backwards. Red wire on the right side looking at it from the back side or Red wire to the sdcard Reader
KAS wrote:I installed the regulator on the smoothieboard only, not the GLCD Shield. It was redundant and not needed. The GLCD (Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller) with 1a regulator will work off the single +12v VBB, or the +5v VBB. You can also power the GLCD using just a USB 3.0 port.
See the attached image, no regulator on the GLCD Shield , 1a regulator on the smoothieboard, everything running off USB 3.0 with no other power wires attached:
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
I had the same issue with a GLCD from ebay.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=8312" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=8312" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
I am having an issue with the unit crashing the carriages when homing. I tested the end stops with m119 and it gives me a 1 for each end stop only when depressed and 0 otherwise, which is correct. I tried removing the ^ after the directly copying the config in the beginning of this thread as well as modifying the delta config I downloaded in all kinds of ways. Do I need to reconfigure with more than a two wire end stop? I have some hall sensors that I could use, but I was hoping that I could make the original Max hardware work...
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
If M119 shows the endstops work correctly, check to see whether anything is interfering with the carriage mechanically depressing the switch. I'm using some custom carriages, and I found that the Z axis kept crashing into the endstop. It turned out to be that the endstop switch mount was protruding a little bit below the body of the switch, and the carriage was impacting there before it could press the switch enough to get it to trigger.
Questions? Ask in a thread - PMs are off.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
They are all free of impediments and should by all rights trigger cleanly. I tested all three by hand just now and they each trigger as one would expect. I have had this machine running for quite some time with Rambo card and didn't touch anything mechanical on it. Just put the smoothieboard in to replace the smoked RAMBO board.626Pilot wrote:If M119 shows the endstops work correctly, check to see whether anything is interfering with the carriage mechanically depressing the switch. I'm using some custom carriages, and I found that the Z axis kept crashing into the endstop. It turned out to be that the endstop switch mount was protruding a little bit below the body of the switch, and the carriage was impacting there before it could press the switch enough to get it to trigger.
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Can you post your config and M503 output in a [ code ] tag?
Questions? Ask in a thread - PMs are off.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Gr8Scott,
Are you using a Mac connected via USB by chance? If so, that is most likely the problem. I ran into this and it drove me nuts form months. It's a known issue. Disconnect the USB and print from CF card.
Are you using a Mac connected via USB by chance? If so, that is most likely the problem. I ran into this and it drove me nuts form months. It's a known issue. Disconnect the USB and print from CF card.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Isn't that caused by spotlight searching the SD card constantly while its mounted? I'm pretty sure you can disable that if you recompile smoothie with MSD disabled, bottom of this page: http://smoothieware.org/troubleshooting#toc14" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Edited. I figured out what I did wrong. I had my X and Y tower motor connections switched. When one tower would hit the end stop, the wrong motor would keep turning trying to move it home. Man do I ever feel dumb...
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
Hi ,
Just reviewed your config files because i'm finally made the conversion to smoothieboard.
So far, not realy impressed by the bundle the web interface kinda suck in comparaison of the duet one and i didn't find anyway to replace the usb cable by the rj45 one to drive the printer.
In you config file, i think you mismatch the stepper current ( set to 1.5amps)
i agree the stepper motor are rated 1.5, but in the original rambo config, the apply only 0.7a to the extruder motor and ~0.8amp to the drive.
And this is better like this, the E motor is making a kind of scream when it's @1.5a, @ 0.7 it's quiet and melodious.
The same for the drive steppers, @ 1.5 after a quick print they were @80°c ... running cool (40c)with 0.8amps.
Maybe it's a good think you lower the amps in you config files guys,
The parameters are : XXX_current one in the config file.
Cheers
By the way, i'm installing the dc42 ir probe now, any of you have some tips to do it flawlessly ?
Just reviewed your config files because i'm finally made the conversion to smoothieboard.
So far, not realy impressed by the bundle the web interface kinda suck in comparaison of the duet one and i didn't find anyway to replace the usb cable by the rj45 one to drive the printer.
In you config file, i think you mismatch the stepper current ( set to 1.5amps)
i agree the stepper motor are rated 1.5, but in the original rambo config, the apply only 0.7a to the extruder motor and ~0.8amp to the drive.
And this is better like this, the E motor is making a kind of scream when it's @1.5a, @ 0.7 it's quiet and melodious.
The same for the drive steppers, @ 1.5 after a quick print they were @80°c ... running cool (40c)with 0.8amps.
Maybe it's a good think you lower the amps in you config files guys,
The parameters are : XXX_current one in the config file.
Cheers
By the way, i'm installing the dc42 ir probe now, any of you have some tips to do it flawlessly ?
Re: Rostock Max Smoothieboard Tutorial
If you're talking about the config I attached above, just keep in mind that I'm not using the stock steppers.