First layer temp? MC slicer

[peterdaly]

Just tried MC for the first time last night, the version from SeeMeCNC. I like the interface and app a lot...but I can't get a good print. Trying to stick as close to the defaults provided in the SeeMeCNC build as I can.

I can never get ABS to stick to the bed unless first later temp is 245. After the first layer, I print the rest at 225 or 230. I've edited and saved the "ABS" profile so first layer temp is 245.

MC, with the MC slicer, seems to ignore the first layer temperature setting, so it spits out the first later too cold and it will not adhere to the bed.

Anyone else have this problem? Am I doing something wrong? Thanks.

[Brian]

You can always go into the LCD control panel and use the "Adjust Temps" setting to tweak it for the first layers and then back down for the remaining layers.

[teoman]

I was just going to post about this when i ralized that a thread already existed....

Have you guys already found a solution??

[critical_limit]

Changing temps and/or speeds during a print is not the best idea. You will see every speed and/or temp change on the part. Of course, you have to look close to it, but when you are printing high resolution/quality parts, you can´t do that.

Better to buy a PEI sheet. Since I´ve installed it, I never had any problems with parts come loose. Also I tried the Buildtak sheets. Nearly the same like the PEI, but needs higher Bed temperatures. With the ABS I´m using acually bed temp for the Buildtak is at 105°C, and for the PEI sheet its at 90°C. Depends on the ABS. Every Colour and brand is different.

cheers
Dirk

[teoman]

I am trying to stick it to the pei.

[critical_limit]

I am trying to stick it to the pei.

No success? Mine is sticking like hell. But I have one roll of ABS that is not sticking good. But this ABS is strange. You can´t dissolve it in Acetone. Maybe it´s a mixture of whatever, but sold as ABS. All others are sticking good. Sometimes too good. Every color needs a different Bed temp. But once the right temp is found, it´s easy. Print, whipe with alcohol, print again. Very cool.

[teoman]

It looked as it was going to hold.

When i came to have a look discovered this.

It has crept up from the sides of the nozzle and in to the kapton tape. Its going to be fun removing it.

Ill try lightly sanding the bed now.

[teoman]

Does a shiny nozzle help in this case? Or would have helped ?

[teoman]

That was easy. Heated to 208 degs and pulled it right off. All kapton tape came with it.

Wiped it with some TP and it looks decent again.

[critical_limit]

It looked as it was going to hold.

When i came to have a look discovered this.

It has crept up from the sides of the nozzle and in to the kapton tape. Its going to be fun removing it.

Ill try lightly sanding the bed now.

Teoman,

where did you bought your ABS? I remember you are in Turkey. I´m in Germany, so maybe we can share our experiences with the european Filament suppliers. Which one did you use when it came off?

When I was using abs juice, I had the same once. Had to disassemble the complete effector, because the ABS was wrapped around the Hotend and the effector plate. Cleaning took hours and I lost a lot of acetone for that. But with the PEI- or the buildtak sheet I never had this again.
Very interesting that some are very pleased with the PEI and some have so much problems. Due to we all using nearly the same hardware, it must be a filament problem.

cheers
Dirk