Using Simplify3D

[JFettig]

I'm pretty new to 3D printing, we purchased S3D with hopes of skipping the free software packages. So far I haven't been quite as successful with printing as I hoped.

Using the pre-confugured MatterControl I have been able to make nicer parts. It seems like '30mm/s' in Matter Control is nothing like '30mm/s' in S3D, I make a simple calibration cube with 20% infill and Matter Control prints the whole thing pretty slowly, it looks perfect! I can't even see starts and stops on the outer perimeter. I try to use similar settings in S3D and every start and stop is obvious(indent unless I wipe, and that pushes out), the top infill looks absolutely terrible but it does it so much faster than Matter Control. I really like all the options S3D has so I went for it but so far I have not been too pleased. If I print a flat surface on top of supports it is a mess, the surface does not look nice at all. If I choose Rectilinear infill, it does the first one concentric and doesn't really stick so it drags around.


Another thing I did was calibrate the extrusion multiplier by extruding a single wall, it came out thick at 1.00 so I ended up dropping it to .88 with calc and repeat, it won't fill in a part completely this way, the parts are also small(maybe something to do with machine cal). I'm running a part a 110% right now and it looks pretty good.

Here are the settings I'm running:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/z0w9iUB.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/wZh0Sf8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/gS6mfb6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Xu4Zd2k.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/F6srbJ7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/oKwC1cA.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/ikLuixs.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/rBW4B9D.jpg[/img]

[bot]

Maybe your layer time isn't exceeding 15 seconds? Therefore it isn't slowing down?

I've never used S3d but I've been interested in trying... your story doesn't help convince me, though!

[JFettig]

I'm kind of a noob so I wouldn't put too much weight into it, I'm looking for some help I'll drop layer time

[bot]

I said it wrong. Maybe your layer time is always exceeding 15 seconds and is not slowing down. You'll want to INCREASE the "adjust printing speed for layers below" setting.

[bubbasnow]

change your extrusion width from auto to = nozzle diameter, run a test print and see if your fill has improved, if its too rough try increasing it. i would imagine if this is where you are having issues your end result of a good print diameter is going to be around .55mm

[JFettig]

I said it wrong. Maybe your layer time is always exceeding 15 seconds and is not slowing down. You'll want to INCREASE the "adjust printing speed for layers below" setting.

Me too, that's what I meant as well

change your extrusion width from auto to = nozzle diameter, run a test print and see if your fill has improved, if its too rough try increasing it. i would imagine if this is where you are having issues your end result of a good print diameter is going to be around .55mm

I was running .55mm for a while, I gave .6mm a shot for S&G. I can try backing it down to .5mm but its pretty minor from .55mm

[jmpreuss]

change your extrusion width from auto to = nozzle diameter, run a test print and see if your fill has improved, if its too rough try increasing it. i would imagine if this is where you are having issues your end result of a good print diameter is going to be around .55mm

I will second this, the auto never gave me good results.

I have been using S3D for over a year now and love the control it gives me, but as with any slicing software it isn't going to "just work", there will be trial and error for not only your particular machine but for every type of filament. There are just too many variable in 3D printing for things to work without some effort and testing, and why switching slicing software is painful even if you are going to a "better" one.

[JFettig]

Once this print is done I'll spend a little more time getting it set up. It is printing very nicely at the moment.

Any chance you can share your settings file so I can see what I can learn from it?

[jmpreuss]

Any chance you can share your settings file so I can see what I can learn from it?

The default profiles for the max and the orion are actually a decent starting point and probably better than any profile I have since I don't have a stock hot end anymore. For PLA I changed the extrusion width to manual and made it the same size as the nozzle, for abs it was nozzle width*1.1. For the extrusion multiplier first you need to make sure you measure your filament with calipers and have that value correct. The next is to print 20x20x10 calibration cubes at 100% infill, adjusting the extrusion multiplier until the cube is isn't bulging (over extruded, lower multiplier) or sunken (under extruded, increase multiplier). The default retraction is pretty aggressive, if you start getting air prints you might want to lower it. Definately unclick "use random infill placement". Those are the general tips I have to get a decent profile.

[heathenx]

I use S3D pretty much 95% of the time with my Rostock Max and my FlashForge. I attached my RMax profiles for ABS and PLA if you care to take a gander. I do use a .35mm nozzle though. All you really need to do is change the nozzle size and extrusion width and you should be good to go. Print some calibration cubes. I get outstanding results.

[JFettig]

Thanks heathenx!

One thing I found interesting was your 80% infill overlap, I have been bumping that up slowly but haven't been happy with 20-30%, I will give 80% a shot.

Your nozzle diameter is specified as .33 instead of .35, any reason for that?


I have lots of issues with the start and stop of a profile around a part, it leaves tits that protrude from the part, is there a good way to fix that? I have tried wiping and coasting, I haven't experimented with it enough yet. I see you have extra restart distance which I have tried negative values in there.

[heathenx]

Those retraction bumps ("tits") can't always be avoided in S3D especially with the Rostock. However, they can be minimized. I never use wipe and coast. Instead, on the Advanced tab, I'll check or uncheck the "Force retraction between layers." Sometimes that will clean up the blobs and others times there is no change. Perhaps even moving the "retraction vertical lift" up or down will help you too. I know some who really lift up the head on travel moves while others reduce the distance for faster printing. All trial and error. Sometimes things will work better for your printer and not so much on a different printer.

As for the .33mm nozzle size, that's what I had to do to get a nice final top surface. If you just play with nozzle size and extrusion width on some calibration cubes then you'll see what happens. Yes, I do use an 80% overlap on my infill. This takes care of some of the "delta blues" that some of us have. That number is only 20% on my FlashForge and even that is a little more than is needed. Perhaps I don't need 80 on my Rostock but it's worked really well for me so I leave it there.

You should know that S3D isn't perfect. No slicer is. I'm rather fond of MatterControl too but I get hiccups with it. I think MatterControl might have the lead in terms of overall print quality but it lacks other things that I use in S3D. Everything has pros and cons. I've tried them all.

[JFettig]

I definitely don't expect it to be perfect however I'd like to get it as good as possible!

By "Delta Blues" do you mean the slop in the arms?

[heathenx]

I definitely don't expect it to be perfect however I'd like to get it as good as possible!

By "Delta Blues" do you mean the slop in the arms?

Yes. Technically, I don't suffer much from that. I print pretty slowly most of the time...30mm/s - 40mm/s. I use Trick Laser Carbon Fiber arms too but I really didn't have any problems with the stock SeeMe V2 arms. I actually like the Trick Laser arms for several other reasons that have no bearing on actual print quality.

[geneb]

The Delta Arm Blues refer to a phenomenon that's seen if there's any binding in the u-joints. This is no longer an issue with the current Acetal u-joints.

g.

[heathenx]

The Delta Arm Blues refer to a phenomenon that's seen if there's any binding in the u-joints. This is no longer an issue with the current Acetal u-joints.

g.

Ah! Those are made out of acetal now? I have the aluminum version. Acetal makes sense.

[geneb]

They're very slippery. One of the reasons I have people put them on the arms first is that the little suckers are about as slippery as a wet watermelon seed - with similar results if you're not careful.

g.