Printing my own trucks M665 / M666

[wepollock]

I am printing out my own trucks to replace my very well used cheapskates. I don't know if I will get "very cheap cheapskates" or even if I am being a cheapskate on this particular project. It might be cheaper to go with replacement cheapskates. I think I can eek out a bit more rigidity.

I think the truck will ride a single or a few mm(s) away from the towers vs the original configuration.

The last time I did this was with smoothieware.. you would get a concave effector movement if you did not get the measurement right. Here I might just be able to adjust with M666? or I might have to tune M665 R parameter a bit smaller.

I think M666 will get me to the same result?


M665 R144 L291.06 B135 H261.70 X0 Y0 Z0

Parameters

Lnnn Diagonal rod length
Rnnn Delta radius
Bnnn Safe printing radius
Hnnn Nozzle height above the bed when homed after allowing for endstop corrections
Xnnn X tower position correction1
Ynnn Y tower position correction1
Znnn Z tower position correction1

[wepollock]

Here is a picture of my Duet Project Box.. and a Fusion rendering of homemade "trucks" I might use. I will have a "jig to align them to center and then bolt in "tevo" wheels. My "duet" rostock max is currently printing two v2 trucks. The wheels are wearing out on my original cheapskates the original belts will give way at any moment. I will see if I am happy with my homemade trucks (there might be less flex in them). If not I will just replace the cheapskate.

I am getting great prints from the Rostock Max, direct bondtech extruder, and duet.
The manual leveling was not a big deal. I was able to adjust M666 over a series of prints.
I don't consider auto-leveling a must have feature but I am sure it is useful to a whole lot of people. I would rather have better temperature control.

The machine is quiet.


The box is connected via standoffs. The Standoffs create the structure of the box.

The various layers of the box
1) connect the project box to the Rostock
2) mount the duet to standoffs, the Duet has "breathing" room in every direction - its only contact is with nylon standoffs.
3) the panels contain a window for cable routing
4) stand a fan off from the back of the duet board (two fan options pictured)
5) the side panel of the box hooks onto the standoffs
6) the tail end of the box is empty space; it has room for the cables plug into the board in a "leisurely manner."



I did not want to "stuff" the duet board and the cables into the machine. I also wanted to make sure that the fan was hitting the back of the board and the hot air would vent upwards.

It would be nice to get a temperature reading on the TMC drivers.. The MCU temperature is running very low.

PS I don't want to create a facebook account even though the seemecnc facebook users group seems to be a nexis for sharing information. To me, the "hidden cost" of using Facebook is just too high.


[img]http://i.imgur.com/Xtocakq.png[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/4E8G6ta.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/4xQkMMo.png[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/VFL1LWI.jpg[/img]

[dc42]

It would be nice to get a temperature reading on the TMC drivers.. The MCU temperature is running very low.

The TMC drivers don't report their temperatures, but they do provide an over temperature warning well before they reach the shutdown temperature. I use this to turn on the electronics cooling fan. But in practice the fan never turns on. The drivers run cool unless you use more than about 2A motor current.

I share your views about Facebook. There are plenty of sites (such as this one) that provide a forum for discussion without you having to give away lots of personal information.

[wepollock]

Dave... your work on/with/building/supporting/designing the duet blows me away.

My Duet powered Rostock Max V2 is morphing into the "rat rod" of 3D printers. Wow, can it print.
The printer is quiet as well, my family thanks you!

http://ratrodsrule.tumblr.com/